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Do I have to Grind Down the RSA Trigger?


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When I rack the bolt carrier, it will go towards the rear of the gun, but just before it is supposed to keep going and hit the back of the gun, it gets stuck on something. It appears that the front of the bolt is hooking onto the top of the RSA trigger (not the disconnector or hammer). It looks like that top pointy part of the trigger, the top part of the portion that hooks over the hammer, is too high and hitting the bolt. HAs anyone ground this down? It doesnt seem to perform any function, so I dont think it will do any harm if i grind it, but better to be safe than sorry. This is my first conversion! Thanks!

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Mine did the exact same thing, but I set the rear adjustment screw all the way down (thereby raising the rear of the entire unit) and it seems to have fixed the problem. I would think you could certainly grind it down as well.

Edited by greatmoose
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Mine did the exact same thing, but I set the rear adjustment screw all the way down (thereby raising the rear of the entire unit) and it seems to have fixed the problem. I would think you could certainly grind it down as well.

 

Unfortunately I tried messing with the screws and it did not change the situation. It looks like the bolt carrier & bolt need to travel about 3/4 of an inch more to hit the back of the gun.

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Mine did the exact same thing, but I set the rear adjustment screw all the way down (thereby raising the rear of the entire unit) and it seems to have fixed the problem. I would think you could certainly grind it down as well.

 

Unfortunately I tried messing with the screws and it did not change the situation. It looks like the bolt carrier & bolt need to travel about 3/4 of an inch more to hit the back of the gun.

 

OK...so I ground down the trigger and got it to go to the rear of the gun. The gun now performs its minimal function, but a new issue has come up. As the bolt goes to the rear of the gun, after the bolt carrier pushes down the hammer, the bolt face pushes down the hammer just at the end of the stroke. It does not feel too smooth. \

 

I looked at the bolt and compared it to the bolt in my saiga .223. The .308 bolt as a funny little notch on the bottom of it, while the .223 bolt has a smooth surface like the bolt carrier. Has anyone ground down this notch? I hesitate to do so. Furthermore, I comapred the RSA hammer to the stock hammer. The RSA hammer appears to be fatter. If I grind down the hammer, it may also remedy my problem of the bolt uncomfortably pushing down the hammer at the very end of the stroke. Has anyone done this? Has anyone just used the RSA trigger with the stock hammer?

 

After going through this, I am either doing something wrong, or, as it appears, the RSA trigger as not as "drop in" friendly as I expected it to be.

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Mine had the same problem also, did what Great Moose did and dropped the front end down some and she works great. I couldn't even get the bolt out the first time it happened.

Don't know what to tell you about the second part of your issue though. Maybe a picture could help. What is it that you want to grind down on the bolt?

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When I rack the bolt carrier, it will go towards the rear of the gun, but just before it is supposed to keep going and hit the back of the gun, it gets stuck on something. It appears that the front of the bolt is hooking onto the top of the RSA trigger (not the disconnector or hammer). It looks like that top pointy part of the trigger, the top part of the portion that hooks over the hammer, is too high and hitting the bolt. HAs anyone ground this down? It doesnt seem to perform any function, so I dont think it will do any harm if i grind it, but better to be safe than sorry. This is my first conversion! Thanks!

 

Which RSA trigger group did you use?

I used the one for the VEPR .308 & have had no problems with it (I've got an s-308)...

Can you post pics?

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When I rack the bolt carrier, it will go towards the rear of the gun, but just before it is supposed to keep going and hit the back of the gun, it gets stuck on something. It appears that the front of the bolt is hooking onto the top of the RSA trigger (not the disconnector or hammer). It looks like that top pointy part of the trigger, the top part of the portion that hooks over the hammer, is too high and hitting the bolt. HAs anyone ground this down? It doesnt seem to perform any function, so I dont think it will do any harm if i grind it, but better to be safe than sorry. This is my first conversion! Thanks!

 

Which RSA trigger group did you use?

I used the one for the VEPR .308 & have had no problems with it (I've got an s-308)...

Can you post pics?

 

I just went shooting today with Monarch ammo and the gun shot fine. I made the right choice by buying this gun and converting it. The recoil is very controllable and accuracy was good with iron sights.

 

I will post some pics by the end of the week to show everyone what im talking about. I did grind the trigger, and now it works fine. Frankly I dont know how people get it to work without grinding the trigger. Eventually I might grind the hammer, but its not necessary. Thanks for the responses.

 

BTW, I used the VEPR .308 RSA trigger on my siaga .308.

Edited by wooofad
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Mine did the exact same thing, but I set the rear adjustment screw all the way down (thereby raising the rear of the entire unit) and it seems to have fixed the problem. I would think you could certainly grind it down as well.

 

Unfortunately I tried messing with the screws and it did not change the situation. It looks like the bolt carrier & bolt need to travel about 3/4 of an inch more to hit the back of the gun.

 

OK...so I ground down the trigger and got it to go to the rear of the gun. The gun now performs its minimal function, but a new issue has come up. As the bolt goes to the rear of the gun, after the bolt carrier pushes down the hammer, the bolt face pushes down the hammer just at the end of the stroke. It does not feel too smooth. \

 

I looked at the bolt and compared it to the bolt in my saiga .223. The .308 bolt as a funny little notch on the bottom of it, while the .223 bolt has a smooth surface like the bolt carrier. Has anyone ground down this notch? I hesitate to do so. Furthermore, I comapred the RSA hammer to the stock hammer. The RSA hammer appears to be fatter. If I grind down the hammer, it may also remedy my problem of the bolt uncomfortably pushing down the hammer at the very end of the stroke. Has anyone done this? Has anyone just used the RSA trigger with the stock hammer?

 

After going through this, I am either doing something wrong, or, as it appears, the RSA trigger as not as "drop in" friendly as I expected it to be.

 

I think I know what you're talking about. I had the same problem with my RSA ( I got the fully adjustable trigger) and S-308. I ground down the hammer and it works great. Just take a little off at a time and check for function. Make sure the hammer is able to fully depress the firing pin. You can also take a little off of the front of the hammer where it hits the trigger bar stop (is that what it's called?) to allow the hammer to travel forward a little more.

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Here are some pics of the .308 bolt and a .223 bolt. The top one is the .308. You can see the "notch" im talking about, whereas the .223 is just flat on the bottom. That notch was adding extra resistence due to depression on the rsa hammer at the very end of the cycle. (but now im ok with it)

 

post-6791-1184989870_thumb.jpg

post-6791-1184989884_thumb.jpg

post-6791-1184989894_thumb.jpg

post-6791-1184989902_thumb.jpg

 

Also, you can see the place i ground the trigger down on the RSA trigger because that same notch was catching there as it was going to the rear of the gun. This is the original problem I had. I dont see how one can get the gun to function properly without this grinding.

 

post-6791-1184989910_thumb.jpg

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Your question had me digging into mine RSA trigger. I noticed that the hammer is not stopping at the hammer stop receiver pin (don't know what else to call it). It is hitting the bolt slide and starting to wear a little bit. Seems like too much metal is removed from the hammer. I'm thinking I might try puttting the stock (Saiga) hammer back in. I can post pictures later tonight if anyone else can come up with a solution.

 

 

 

 

When I rack the bolt carrier, it will go towards the rear of the gun, but just before it is supposed to keep going and hit the back of the gun, it gets stuck on something. It appears that the front of the bolt is hooking onto the top of the RSA trigger (not the disconnector or hammer). It looks like that top pointy part of the trigger, the top part of the portion that hooks over the hammer, is too high and hitting the bolt. Has anyone ground this down? It doesnt seem to perform any function, so I dont think it will do any harm if i grind it, but better to be safe than sorry. This is my first conversion! Thanks!
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i recently did a conversion on my 308 (yea i know i finally gave into the urge!)

 

hey! this was a big step for me. i was dead set AGAINST converting. anyway.......

 

i had to completely reshape the G2 hammer to get it to function properly. didn't do anything to the bolt. also had to take about 16th inch off the top of the trigger hook b/c the bolt was hitting it and not letting carrier come back all the way. had to hold trigger down to remove carrier from receiver to field strip. not anymore though.

 

after all this grinding polished it up and now everybody that shoots it says its the best trigger on any rifle they ever fired!

 

makes me feel better that i decided to convert!

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dont take off the side of the trigger hook, you have to take off the top of the trigger hook.

 

thats where the bolt is hitting. taking off here has nothing to do with the functioning of the rifle. so if you take off a little too much, no prob. won't affect anything.

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dont take off the side of the trigger hook, you have to take off the top of the trigger hook.

 

thats where the bolt is hitting. taking off here has nothing to do with the functioning of the rifle. so if you take off a little too much, no prob. won't affect anything.

 

Thats ultimately what I ended up doing. I think you are right in that I just needed to take some off the top. I didnt mess with the hammer, and I dont anticipate doing so unless I see some undue wear. I think im gonna add a buffer, which should shorten the cycle enough to reduce serious wear.

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