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.308 Gas adjustment, perhaps?


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Hello, noob here, w/ a question (sorry in advance if it's out there already.) I was hoping

someone could point me in the right direction on this matter. I've been shooting Silver Bear 145 FMJ

.308 inmy Saiga...had a few FTE's initially, then it seems to have been working fine lately. So I bought

a bunch of it, go shooting with a friend, and he can't even make it through a magazine w/ out two FTE's.

Still happens to me occasionally too, but not to the extent that my friend had it happend. Anyway,

Not sure if it's "limp-wristed" operator error, or maybe the gun's in need of a gas adjustment? Think I read

somewhere that this kind of Silver Bear is kind of a wimpy load....was wondering if I might notch up the gas adjustment? Does this sound like a reasonable thing to do? Thanks

 

P.S. Would a valmet buffer help out w/ this problem? Or just something good to install as well.

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Hello, noob here, w/ a question (sorry in advance if it's out there already.) I was hoping

someone could point me in the right direction on this matter. I've been shooting Silver Bear 145 FMJ

.308 inmy Saiga...had a few FTE's initially, then it seems to have been working fine lately. So I bought

a bunch of it, go shooting with a friend, and he can't even make it through a magazine w/ out two FTE's.

Still happens to me occasionally too, but not to the extent that my friend had it happend. Anyway,

Not sure if it's "limp-wristed" operator error, or maybe the gun's in need of a gas adjustment? Think I read

somewhere that this kind of Silver Bear is kind of a wimpy load....was wondering if I might notch up the gas adjustment? Does this sound like a reasonable thing to do? Thanks

 

P.S. Would a valmet buffer help out w/ this problem? Or just something good to install as well.

I can't see that 145 grain would make a difference.

But I would try a heavier bullet before doing anything to the rifle

Mine shoots 147 grain without a hitch.

Yours may just need "breaking in" with heavier bullets.

Edited by gunnysmith
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Is it well cleaned and oiled?

Just checking...

 

Acer

 

It's clean....not all that well oiled, though, come to think of it. Start there, eh? I'll give 'er a try this weekend.

 

Messing around w/ the gas system sounds like something to try after ruling out other things, I'm gathering. Thanks so far!

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One other thing I thought of....I've cleaned the gas piston and cylinder, to the best of my ability, w/out actually taking the gas cylinder assembly off. Tried to move the little lever dealy up to 90 and 45, but so far have been unable to remove the cylinder Read about other people's troubles removing this, but that hasn't helped me. Is it possible that some gas ports are a little clogged, and that can only be cleaned by removing the cylinder? I've fired about 700 rounds through the gun. Thanks for the help!

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Use the slot in the cleaning kit tube as a handle to get enough leverage to move the lever. They ar TIGHT the first few times (like any virgin!). Glad I took mine apart before shooting it. Something I do with all my guns when I first aquire them.

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I'd try to find a way to pull the gas tube off, and clean out the hole that goes through to the barrel(gas port) good. Also look for metal shavings and rub marks in the action to see if the bolt is dragging on something. Also look at bolt /bolt head make sure head turns freely no pin have worked out. Look close at extractor claw to see if any damage.

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700 rnds ? that thing ought be well broke in . I'd pop the gasblock forward and put a campher on the gasport to allow a better gas expansion and take care of any alignment issues . use a 3/8's bit and just put a shallow concave into it . While you have it opened up , clean out the hole . Don't enlarge it though , to much presure and you'll be tasting the carrier .

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Is it a converted gun?

 

If so what type of hammer is in there? I know that with my G2 Tapco trigger group I had to grind the hell out of it to that the bolt & bolt carrier could move back and forth freely without binding up.

 

If it is too hard for the bolt to fly backwards, the rounds could get hung up during ejection.

 

Also remove any recoil buffers you may have in the gun to see if that helps at all.

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It's a non-converted gun....I've done nothing to it except clean what I could. Considering doing a conversion, w/ the high-cap mags coming out these days. Sounds like conversion is not really <b>that</b> hard, but my interest wanes when I consider the prospect of having to pop rivets out, among other things. Not super mechanically inclined, and worry about screwing it up. I guess there're always real gunsmiths to come to the rescue, though.

 

Haven't had a chance to do anything yet to the gun as suggested in previous replies....except shoot a few mags through it while I was waiting for my 30-06 to cool off when sighting it in. Doesn't seem to FTE so much when I'm shooting prone, as opposed to off-hand shooting....but anyway, sounds like I need try a few things people have suggested. Fortunately it's the weekend.

 

Someone suggested getting lighter springs.....any suggestions for a vendor for the springs?

 

Will clean gas block and ports (provided that I can finally get 'er off). The campher option sounds beyond my gunsmithing abilities...at least w/out step by step tutorial w/ nice pictures.....certainly don't want any taste of the bolt carrier!! But I guess if all else fails, that'd be an option. Will report back later, and thanks to all who've contributed.

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This may sound stupid, how is your standing shooting postion? If FTE's do not happen in the prone postion, you may need a more solid stance so the spring can fully compress instead of your shoulder taking the recoil. Much like semi-auto pistols when you limp wrist em'.

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This may sound stupid, how is your standing shooting postion? If FTE's do not happen in the prone postion, you may need a more solid stance so the spring can fully compress instead of your shoulder taking the recoil. Much like semi-auto pistols when you limp wrist em'.

 

Well, I was wondering the same thing, as I'd read on some thread that someone thought that "limp-wristing", or its rifle equivalent "limp-shouldering", might cause some FTE problems. That would certainly help explain why my friend (who's less experienced than I am) was having so many problems w/ the FTE's.

 

My standing position probably does have some flaws....I'm sure there's always room for improvement. Maybe anticipating recoil? Not like it's a whole lot of recoil...I'm starting to learn to enjoy the recoil from the bolt-action MN and 30-06, but maybe I've developed some bad habits. Anyway, gonna rip that thing apart tonight and see what I can do and give 'er another run this weekend. Thanks

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When shooting offhand, bring the stock into the shoulder, and then push the shoulder into the stock. There should be some tension between the your shoulder on the stock, and your hand on the fore grip. Not a LOT, but enought to slightly raise the shoulder mussle, and to keep you and the weapon together. This will also reduce felt recoil and brusing.

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Well, finally got the gas cylinder off.....it's one of those things that's pretty simple once you figure it out, as people have mentioned on this forum. Just watch out for the little metal spring/washer thingy flying away if you pull up w/ too much forcce :cryss:

 

Cleaned and lubed everything, held the rifle firmly against my shoulder as was previously suggested, and I had no FTE/FTF issues last shooting session. So I was quite pleased w/ my weekend .308 semi-auto fun (and now I want another one---maybe a Saiga 12 this time....anyone know when they'll be available again?), and thanks to all for offering suggestions.

 

P.S. RED JACKET: Not sure if I have enough info about putting a campher in the gas-port....any detailed instructions anywhere on how to do this?

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