confederateduck 1 Posted January 19, 2008 Report Share Posted January 19, 2008 (edited) I built this on a rommy G kit from parts I made. The inside were I attached my braided stainless steel cable to the original trigger. The magwell were the wire runs through. View with the gas tube off of the front trigger and the front trigger attached to the wire. Thanks for looking. Edited January 19, 2008 by confederateduck 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
confederateduck 1 Posted January 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2008 Btw, I shot it last weekend and it is awsome! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
acercanto 6 Posted January 19, 2008 Report Share Posted January 19, 2008 (edited) That's pretty awesome, man! What I've always wondered is why don't people use a thin strip of sheet metal for the trigger linkage? It'd be a whole lot more rigid, and you'd get a more positive reset, I'd think. That whole thing about not being able to push a rope, stupid physics. Ideas? Oh, and the tan and black works really nicely, IMHO. Acer Edited for clarity And to ask: What's the little wire going around the hammer spring for? Just curious.. Edited January 19, 2008 by acer_saiga308 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
buckmeister 11 Posted January 19, 2008 Report Share Posted January 19, 2008 (edited) What I've always wondered is why don't people use a thin strip of sheet metal for the trigger linkage? It'd be a whole lot more rigid, and you'd get a more positive reset, I'd think. That whole thing about not being able to push a rope, stupid physics. The wire is in tension while the trigger is being pulled and by the spring when being reset. The "front" trigger has no where to go because it is being held by the trigger spring via the cable. Stiff metal removes the flexing (slack take-up) involved when the cable or wire lacks a straight pull between the front and rear trigger. The spongy feel of most bullpup triggers comes from this type of play in the thin wire or cable. Additionally, mass must be kept to a minimum because it could cause an accidental discharge if dropped or bumped. Wire or cable helps eliminate the mass and forces involved. A forward safety could be employed in the above design, acting as the original AK style, with more of an AR feel and function (a half-moon design). Great work duck! I bought my Saiga .223 originally to bullpup it, but a Galil movement has me sidetracked. How's the LOP? The space needed to rock-and-lock the 7.62 mag has my measurements at 16 inches on my FEG AK, hence my leaning toward the .223 Saiga (less space needed to insert straighter mags plus the possibilty of an AR mag adapter). Also, what setup did you use for the Eotech. That's pretty slick! In seach of a more compact 30 caliber punch, I added a Romy wire folder and PWA brake to a Romy G (instant truck gun). I still like pups, though. buckmeister Edited January 19, 2008 by buckmeister Quote Link to post Share on other sites
confederateduck 1 Posted January 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2008 LOP is great, it really feels good when you hold it. Mags are not difficult to insert/remove but it takes a little practice. The scope mount is one of them tri rail barrel mounts with a spacer I made to raise it. It works well I think. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Genocide 0 Posted January 19, 2008 Report Share Posted January 19, 2008 Thanks Duck, Im going to try and design my parts pretty soon for my own design. Your pics are much appreciated! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
acercanto 6 Posted January 20, 2008 Report Share Posted January 20, 2008 The wire is in tension while the trigger is being pulled and by the spring when being reset. The "front" trigger has no where to go because it is being held by the trigger spring via the cable. Stiff metal removes the flexing (slack take-up) involved when the cable or wire lacks a straight pull between the front and rear trigger. The spongy feel of most bullpup triggers comes from this type of play in the thin wire or cable. Additionally, mass must be kept to a minimum because it could cause an accidental discharge if dropped or bumped. Wire or cable helps eliminate the mass and forces involved. A forward safety could be employed in the above design, acting as the original AK style, with more of an AR feel and function (a half-moon design). Thanks for the explanation. I figured mass would be an issue, but if you used thin enough metal, it'd be pretty much a toss-up, no? Heh, here's an oddball idea. How 'bout a 1911-style grip lock? Maybe have 2 pieces of rubber that pinch the sheet metal linkage unless your hand is on the grip? I dunno, I'm just tossing ideas around, I can't see myself doing an AK build anytime soon with my budget. :-( Acer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paladin 37 Posted January 20, 2008 Report Share Posted January 20, 2008 Thats a nice build! Good work Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Azrial 1,091 Posted January 20, 2008 Report Share Posted January 20, 2008 You did a nice job. I am rebuilding my KVAR Bullpup with a Rommy-G kit pretty soon. I think I will go with a UltiMAK M1-B rail and a cantilever mount for my M68. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Superhawk138 202 Posted January 20, 2008 Report Share Posted January 20, 2008 Nice work duck i've got something similar going on right now .410 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
confederateduck 1 Posted January 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2008 Nice work duck i've got something similar going on right now .410 Sweet, butt Can you get mags out of that thing? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
buckmeister 11 Posted January 20, 2008 Report Share Posted January 20, 2008 (edited) Yo duckman, Can you email me details on the Eotech rail setup. I have a tri-rail mount which may be the same or similar to yours, but am unsure of the configuration/orientation of your specimen. Also, I have a lower HG like yours. How does its mounting differ from standard HG's? I read where the front retainer had to be modified. Is that trigger guard homemade (looks good)? I am again inspired to take another look at pups. buckmeister e_mused{at}yahoo{dot}com Edited January 20, 2008 by buckmeister Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Superhawk138 202 Posted January 20, 2008 Report Share Posted January 20, 2008 Nice work duck i've got something similar going on right now .410 Sweet, butt Can you get mags out of that thing? I can get my custom 9 rounder out fairly easy and 4 rounders are no problem at all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nico Cujo 1 Posted January 21, 2008 Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 Nice work duck i've got something similar going on right now .410 Sweet, butt Can you get mags out of that thing? I can get my custom 9 rounder out fairly easy and 4 rounders are no problem at all. I like what y'all are doing with these guns. Maybe we can get a sticky on how to make these conversions when it's all said and done. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
michael_glenning 0 Posted January 21, 2008 Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 Confederate Duck, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you. With this info and an AMD 65 sheetmetal lower hand guard, it looks like the SAIGA 308 Bullpup conversion is underway. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
buckmeister 11 Posted January 22, 2008 Report Share Posted January 22, 2008 I pulled out my notes and info on bullpups, my tape-measure, and my Saiga 223. To have a LOP of around 14 inches, the rear trunnion tang would need to be chopped, and a 20 inch barrel is needed to obtain an OAL of 26 inches (or permanently pin a FH). With the rear tang attached and a 16 inch barrel, the OAL is just over 26 inches, but LOP is 16 inches. The Galil AR mag adapter would alter the above issue to a degree. A Robinson M96 magwell might be modified to use (Link). A sheet metal magwell could be fagricated (aka Bill Holmes design) like this one: Link. The braided wire trigger bar may be the best solution to the bends and turns needed to connect the front and rear triggers. A rigid bar would enable a fore mounted safety. If a 3-4 inch sheet metal channel were used to hold the PG and front trigger ass'y, the original HG would serve effectively to insulate the shooter from the hot barrel. Originally I had planned to drive the rear sight pin out on my 16 inch Saiga and replace it with a longer one, and it serve as the attachment point just as factory issued. The AMD HG is an elegant solution; with it, I like YHM' s folding VG's... they have an AUG look to them. I was looking at using the side-rail-scope-mount to attach a cheekrest. I found some good ideas here: Bullpups Just some food for thought, buckmeister Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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