jh664322 0 Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 Im mostly done my conversion. However, the axles (pins) holding in the hammer and the trigger keep coming out. On the Cross-conn website he mentions that you need to come up with a way to keep them in. What are some methods to do this. Couldnt find anything in search under "pin" or "axles." Also, what are the binding posts for? I have an ace internal receiver block that covers the rear holes above the pistol grip where the posts would go....do I need them? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 (edited) Those are pivot pins for the fire control group. You can use a piece of piano wire: or you can use other methods: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=19193 http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=21705 Do a search in the Tech Section for "retainer" and you'll find a lot of info Binding posts / chicago screws are what that fellow used for filling the left-over holes in his conversion. I left my holes completely open. Some folks have said that the black nylon hole plugs you get at your local home improvement store work nicely. Other folks send their rifle off to get the holes welded up. It's your call, on filling the holes. Edited February 3, 2008 by nalioth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kresk 10,063 Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 You need a retainer plate or wire, Shepherd's hook, or e-clips to hold those axis pins in. What did you do with the wire that was in the gun before you started the conversion? Try a search under 'retainer wire' or something similar and there should be many posts and some diagrams. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jh664322 0 Posted February 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 You need a retainer plate or wire, Shepherd's hook, or e-clips to hold those axis pins in. What did you do with the wire that was in the gun before you started the conversion? Try a search under 'retainer wire' or something similar and there should be many posts and some diagrams. Thanks for the links guys. I like the idea of the 3/4 inch hitch pins. I'll pick some up. Not sure where my wire went... Without wasting another thread, is there a cheaper option to getting a wooden handguard than picking up dinzags bolt on hand guard retainer? Not disputing its quality, but its out of my price range. I dont like the stock guard, the galil also doesnt appeal to me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 Without wasting another thread, is there a cheaper option to getting a wooden handguard than picking up dinzags bolt on hand guard retainer? Not disputing its quality, but its out of my price range. I dont like the stock guard, the galil also doesnt appeal to me. Not unless you want to get creative. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kresk 10,063 Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 Without wasting another thread, is there a cheaper option to getting a wooden handguard than picking up dinzags bolt on hand guard retainer? Not disputing its quality, but its out of my price range. I dont like the stock guard, the galil also doesnt appeal to me. Not unless you want to press off the FSB and gas block. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jh664322 0 Posted February 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 Creative seems like adapting a regular one to fit on a saiga somehow..... And I definitely do not want to press on a front retainer. I am also replacing my piston. I drilled either side of the piston a little bit, now Im beating the hell out of the pin with a hammer and an iron spike. No luck so far. Thread on this? Tech and 7.62 didnt show anything for piston or piston replacement aside from what I am doing now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 Without wasting another thread, is there a cheaper option to getting a wooden handguard than picking up dinzags bolt on hand guard retainer? Not disputing its quality, but its out of my price range. I dont like the stock guard, the galil also doesnt appeal to me. Not unless you want to press off the FSB and gas block. One of the fellows here used a 1913 rail that clamps on to the barrel to hold his AKM lower handguard. I can't remember the thread No mods needed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
22_Shooter 1,560 Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 I thought Cobra hacked a regular retainer in half, and rigged it back together on the gun . I think he did anyway. Here's the thread Nalioth was talking about - http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?s=&...st&p=191406 . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
oldandslow 3 Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 (edited) The lower handguard retainer does not press on. It slips on (after pressing off the front sight and gas block). The lower handguard retainer has a lever that holds it on. I used a round file to put a notch in the barrel to hold it. All of this is relatively easy if you have a hydraulic press and drill press. I made a front sight and gas block removal plate for the press. A piece of 1/2 inch thick aluminum sawed in half with my carbide bladed rotary saw. I pressed of the front sight, then made the hole bigger and pressed of the gas block. They beat on easily with a brass punch and hammer. Watch the front sight alignment. Edited February 4, 2008 by oldandslow Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jh664322 0 Posted February 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 Ah thanks for those links. Unfortunately all I have is a drill, a hammer, various hand tools, and a dremel. My dremel just broke yesterday....it started bleeding oil then it just gave up. I like the idea of that mount up thing the guy did, single rail barrel mount. Would be cool with an accessory too. He used the galil though, it seems like the wooden grip would need to be filed down some. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jh664322 0 Posted February 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 I found a nice tutorial on replacing the piston over on ak47.net. However, I ONLY have a drill, a semi-functional dremel, and hammers and small tools. No punch or press or anything. Is it possible to get the thing out with a special bit maybe? Or just beating the hell out of the rivet with a spike and hammer? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 I found a nice tutorial on replacing the piston over on ak47.net. However, I ONLY have a drill, a semi-functional dremel, and hammers and small tools. No punch or press or anything. Is it possible to get the thing out with a special bit maybe? Or just beating the hell out of the rivet with a spike and hammer?On regular AKM/74 rifles you can knock the rivet out with a hammer and punch (this is how i do it), but the Saiga gas pistons are held by dimples in the bolt carrier and need to be drilled out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jh664322 0 Posted February 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2008 I found a nice tutorial on replacing the piston over on ak47.net. However, I ONLY have a drill, a semi-functional dremel, and hammers and small tools. No punch or press or anything. Is it possible to get the thing out with a special bit maybe? Or just beating the hell out of the rivet with a spike and hammer?On regular AKM/74 rifles you can knock the rivet out with a hammer and punch (this is how i do it), but the Saiga gas pistons are held by dimples in the bolt carrier and need to be drilled out. What if you drill out the dimples? Looks like I am looking just at the pin now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted February 16, 2008 Report Share Posted February 16, 2008 What if you drill out the dimples? Looks like I am looking just at the pin now. If you just drill the dimples, you should be able to knock the rivet out with a punch. Most folks who drill their rivet out, usually just drill it all the way through. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jh664322 0 Posted February 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2008 I have a makita drill that has 2800rpm as max. I just thrashed a cobalt bit that cost me 8 bucks, a titanium bit did nothing, stainless is worthless....nothing is working. I also put my bolt carrier and piston on a concrete floor and tried hitting a punch with a sledge hammer and that didn't seem to work either. So, I guess now I need to buy a better drill or maybe take it to a smith. So....what would a smith charge and/or what kind of drill/bit would be sufficient? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted February 17, 2008 Report Share Posted February 17, 2008 When you're working with metal, a slow drill is best, I've found. Cutting oil may be an option, as well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
747mech 1 Posted February 17, 2008 Report Share Posted February 17, 2008 Heat is your drill bit's enemy. You can resharpen your bits with your dremel using a sanding drum or disc. careful not to burn it while grinding. Any oil will work as lubricant while drilling. It also helps cool the bit by transferring heat to the material. Slow drill with pressure and a sharp bit should work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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