Otto 0 Posted March 11, 2008 Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 Howdy! I've got my .308 Saiga coming on Thursday and I want to attach a muzzle brake. I've been told that the one I want to stick on will require that the barrel be threaded. Is this a big deal? Can any gunsmith do it? How much threading must be done to attach the brake? Any idea what threading the barrel might cost? Thanks for any help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
herr_cobblermachen 0 Posted March 11, 2008 Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 What youre going to have to do is take loose your front sight block, and move it back, drill you a new pin hole and then fasten the fsb back down. Then, you need a threading kit to thread your muzzle (usually $30ish to rent). Its not too tough at all provided you have the tools. A gunsmith can do it but im sure hed charge a fair sum. As far as I know the only thing you need to buy is the muzzle brake itself and the price of renting a threading kit, maybe some loctite. $45 - $70 maybe. A word on muzzle brakes- if you get an ak74-style brakes theres a different between a double baffle authentic one, and an ak74"style" brake. I have a tantal brake on mine which works like a charm, cost me $15 over at krebs (a usa made one over at dmph arms for $30). It doesnt reduce recoil perçe, it just cuts down muzzle rise between shots (which is great on my 7.62x39). The authentic and truly effective ones, other than the tantal model, will run $40-$80. If youre in it just for the looks, you can get an ak74style one from just about anywhere. I think the cheapest I found them was over at Centerfiresystems for $10. You can tell the two apart usually by looking at how the brake holes are done. An authentic usually has 3 holes all the way around the brake, a knockoff usually just has 2 on top in a straight line. If you want to know more about the difference between authentic and ak74 style let me know. The threads youre looking for is 14x1 LH threads. There should be several posts about threading muzzle ends, you may want to look those up for info about muzzle threading if you decide to do it yourself. Information on how to do so can be found here http://www.dinzagarms.com/saiga_308/308fsb.html While the threading kit rental can be found here http://www.dinzagarms.com/tools/tools.html . Kudos to dinzag:), one of the best fellows on this forum. Hope I didnt bore you to death Howdy! I've got my .308 Saiga coming on Thursday and I want to attach a muzzle brake. I've been told that the one I want to stick on will require that the barrel be threaded. Is this a big deal? Can any gunsmith do it? How much threading must be done to attach the brake? Any idea what threading the barrel might cost? Thanks for any help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shaneman153a 39 Posted March 11, 2008 Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 +1 on the brakes, on this brake: http://www.dinzagarms.com/brakes_hiders/74brake12.html This is the type of AK "style" brake that herr cobblermachen is talking about, with no baffle. If you look into the opening, you can see that it is hollow. On an "effective" brake, it will have a baffle visible at the back of the opening (front of the solid part). It has one hole in the center (.30 cal I assume), and on some it has 4 small holes at the 10, 2, 4, and 8 positions, angled outward. It is this baffle that creates a "wall" for the gas to stop on, which applies forward pressure, effectively reducing recoil. BTW, the pin-on .308 brake I got from Dinzag has the baffle and is VERY effective. photo from tantal sight untitled.bmp Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vultite 57 Posted March 11, 2008 Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 (edited) FYI. Tromix is going to release shark brakes for our rifles soon, but the J tac brake works well 2....also check out this site... http://www.shop.preciseinnovationsllc.com/main.sc Edited March 11, 2008 by Vultite Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Otto 0 Posted March 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 Thanks all! This helps a bunch. The brake I've been looking at IS the Shark by Tromix. They're supposed to be shipped in a couple of weeks and Mississippi Auto Arms is now taking reservations for it. MSRP is something like $85 Otto Quote Link to post Share on other sites
topgun2000 0 Posted March 13, 2008 Report Share Posted March 13, 2008 Isn't there a rumor saying that brakes would affect accuracy in some way? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NY-proletariat 0 Posted March 15, 2008 Report Share Posted March 15, 2008 What about a US GI type of flash hider? The barrel would probably need to be turned down and threaded...right? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Otto 0 Posted March 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 I'm really trying to decrease muzzle rise and recoil. I saw a bunch of AK type compensators at the gunshow here today, but was totally clueless about what one would work, and if they even would work with my Saiga. I kind of assume that they should as the AK chambering in 7.62 x 39 should have the same diameter as my Saiga in 7.62 x 51. My real concern is losing or compromising my front sight. The darn barrel is so short @ 16.5" that there just isn't that much of it past the forearm. Has anyone done this and if so do you have a picture? Otto Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Saigaczech 9 Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 Actually the 7.62x39 is a bit bigger in diameter. The correct bullet size for a 7.62x39 is .310" while the 7.62x51 is .308". You should be fine if you can get the brake to fit. Make sure it does not obstruct the bullet path after installation. Once had a badly installed brake which deflected the bullet by 4 feet at 25 yards from point of aim. I chewed that smith out royally and never used his services again. Now I do my own work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sggrosso 0 Posted March 22, 2008 Report Share Posted March 22, 2008 Howdy! I've got my .308 Saiga coming on Thursday and I want to attach a muzzle brake. I've been told that the one I want to stick on will require that the barrel be threaded. Is this a big deal? Can any gunsmith do it? How much threading must be done to attach the brake? Any idea what threading the barrel might cost? Thanks for any help. I had mine done by a local gunsmith with this expertise and a full machine shop last year-just because I did not want to F-up the accuracy of my S308-16". It cost me $95 including moving the sights block back and a thread nut/protector, and trueing the crown on the barrel. It was a 14mm LH thread for an SVD flash hider. He had to fabricate a bore alignment rod to keep it straight for this size barrel. I feel it was well worth it for the assurance that it would be straight and true and the FSB would be aligned correctly also. I'm not shy about tearing into my MBR, but this was one thing I wanted perfect. BTW he had to use a 20,000LB press to get the FSB off after the pins were out. sggrosso Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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