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dammit, whats the best way to cut a PG hole?


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I know this has been covered here, but after searching around i think i lost where i saw the thread for it. Anyways, i busted out the dremel this past weekend and got to grinding off the right parts for a dimpled X39 conversion, and what the hell...no PG hole is cut, so how the hell does that work out? the non dimpled guns get a PG hole, but the dimpled guns don't? gotta love the russians :( anyways, anyone got any suggestions before i cut into the damn thing?

Edited by Vultite
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I know this has been covered here, but after searching around i think i lost where i saw the thread for it. Anyways, i busted out the dremel this past weekend and got to grinding off the right parts for a dimpled X39 conversion, and what the hell...no PG hole is cut, so how the hell does that work out? the non dimpled guns get a PG hole, but the dimpled guns don't? gotta love the russians :( anyways, anyone got any suggestions before i cut into the damn thing?

 

I take a 3/8 drill bit and drill a whole using the drill press then I take a triangular file to make it square

 

Also, if you are putting an ergo grip on, make whole a little close to the trigger guard then spec. the compression of the rubber spacer on the Ergo grip will prevent it from rotating and make the grip seem much more solid to the gun.

also use a M6x1 tap and die to clean up the threads on the grip bushing and screw.

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I know this has been covered here, but after searching around i think i lost where i saw the thread for it. Anyways, i busted out the dremel this past weekend and got to grinding off the right parts for a dimpled X39 conversion, and what the hell...no PG hole is cut, so how the hell does that work out? the non dimpled guns get a PG hole, but the dimpled guns don't? gotta love the russians :( anyways, anyone got any suggestions before i cut into the damn thing?

 

I take a 3/8 drill bit and drill a whole using the drill press then I take a triangular file to make it square

 

Also, if you are putting an ergo grip on, make whole a little close to the trigger guard then spec. the compression of the rubber spacer on the Ergo grip will prevent it from rotating and make the grip seem much more solid to the gun.

also use a M6x1 tap and die to clean up the threads on the grip bushing and screw.

 

 

Leo@VKA

 

Thanks for the drill and file directions. :super: I messed up my last pistol grip hole so much (using my Dremmel) that I had to put a pistol grip reinforcement plate on the receiver to make it stronger. :wub:

 

louielouie

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I know this has been covered here, but after searching around i think i lost where i saw the thread for it. Anyways, i busted out the dremel this past weekend and got to grinding off the right parts for a dimpled X39 conversion, and what the hell...no PG hole is cut, so how the hell does that work out? the non dimpled guns get a PG hole, but the dimpled guns don't? gotta love the russians :( anyways, anyone got any suggestions before i cut into the damn thing?

 

I take a 3/8 drill bit and drill a whole using the drill press then I take a triangular file to make it square

 

Also, if you are putting an ergo grip on, make whole a little close to the trigger guard then spec. the compression of the rubber spacer on the Ergo grip will prevent it from rotating and make the grip seem much more solid to the gun.

also use a M6x1 tap and die to clean up the threads on the grip bushing and screw.

 

 

Leo@VKA

 

Thanks for the drill and file directions. :super: I messed up my last pistol grip hole so much (using my Dremmel) that I had to put a pistol grip reinforcement plate on the receiver to make it stronger. :wub:

 

louielouie

if it makes you feel better I destroyed a beautiful 762x39 with dimples, 3rd y and a russian ported gas block, when I tried to use a air chisel to remove the floor plate. But dont worry I only try new things on my own guns

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Alright, finally got it cut down, the screeching noise made by hardend steel is aweful lol. I think next time, i'll make sure the rifle has PG hole precut before i buy it......this was much much more work then i wanted, but this should be a good fit, btw, good idea on cutting the hole closer to the trigger for ERGO grips, it worked really well....gonna weld the holes on the receiver shut and weld the trigger guard in place =D

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Alright, finally got it cut down, the screeching noise made by hardend steel is aweful lol. I think next time, i'll make sure the rifle has PG hole precut before i buy it......this was much much more work then i wanted, but this should be a good fit, btw, good idea on cutting the hole closer to the trigger for ERGO grips, it worked really well....gonna weld the holes on the receiver shut and weld the trigger guard in place =D

yeah, use cutting oil while drilling and it doesnt screech or kill your bit.

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I used the rotary cutting disk on mine... not the brown ones that blow up on ya... but the fiber matrix one... like a true cutting wheel... worked on the receiver like butter... took only a few minuted after I measured and marked the spot to cut... went straight down in... started in the MIDDLE of the edge... then went deeper to get the right length of cut... repeated that 4 times... and then finished with some touch up to make sure edges were smooth... DONE...

 

and no screechy noises! LOL

 

 

:smoke:

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Well, i did use wax instead of oil, screeched a ton still, but it got the job done, i did use a cutting wheel after the 3/8" hole was drilled to make more of a square shape, then used pilers to pull out the tabs, then grind off the edges with a wheel....so far so good....next weekend i'll weld the trigger guard in place after the internal parts roll in, using the tromix trigger group =D

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Screeching noises when cutting metal are usually indicative of too high a cutting speed for the amount of feed. Since home drill presses don't have power feed, you need to reduce the RPMs. Some hard metals will screech some anyway, but the proper RPMs will have less noise than too fast.

 

BTW, I drill small holes at the corners and then cut out the square with a cut-off wheel in the Dremel, then square up with either a three-square (triangular) or square file. I also weld a piece of approx 1/16" to 1/8" sheet metal to the underside of the receiver that just fits into the area in the top of the pistol grip over the rear part of the old trigger hole. This ends up being at the rear end of the PG, and with the front of the PG locked in place by the trigger guard and the rear locked by this piece, the PG doesn't wobble at all, even if the screw isn't all that tight. This means that the PG screw doesn't have to be excessively tightened, since the PGs are usually plastic.

 

 

 

No, Leo or Tony, if you guys don't do this and think it's a cool idea, I don't care one bit if you add it to your repertoire.

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Leo@VKA,

Well, you certainly made my "mountain" of pain into a mole hill.

 

Let me guess; the air chisel ripped the steel or warped the receiver , instead of

popping the weld or rivets?

 

louielouie

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

if it makes you feel better I destroyed a beautiful 762x39 with dimples, 3rd y and a russian ported gas block, when I tried to use a air chisel to remove the floor plate. But dont worry I only try new things on my own guns

 

Leo@VKA

Edited by louielouie
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Screeching noises when cutting metal are usually indicative of too high a cutting speed for the amount of feed. Since home drill presses don't have power feed, you need to reduce the RPMs. Some hard metals will screech some anyway, but the proper RPMs will have less noise than too fast.

 

BTW, I drill small holes at the corners and then cut out the square with a cut-off wheel in the Dremel, then square up with either a three-square (triangular) or square file. I also weld a piece of approx 1/16" to 1/8" sheet metal to the underside of the receiver that just fits into the area in the top of the pistol grip over the rear part of the old trigger hole. This ends up being at the rear end of the PG, and with the front of the PG locked in place by the trigger guard and the rear locked by this piece, the PG doesn't wobble at all, even if the screw isn't all that tight. This means that the PG screw doesn't have to be excessively tightened, since the PGs are usually plastic.

 

 

 

No, Leo or Tony, if you guys don't do this and think it's a cool idea, I don't care one bit if you add it to your repertoire.

 

I used an old school Delta industrial press, RPM's weren't high, just shitty bits on hardened steel is noisy, snapped 2 bits b/c they were the brittle TiN bits

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