twinhairdryers 2 Posted January 19, 2005 Report Share Posted January 19, 2005 Mine has a good 15 degree angle back toward the butstock in it. When I use my scope mounts, I needed to shim the back end of it by putting washers between the top weaver plate and the side mount assembly to angle the entire thing more even with the barrel. Anyone have any ideas on how to fix the straightness of this side rail? Everything is fine until you get the Kobra with the fixed side rail mounting assembly and I can't get it to zero on target even with max elevation settings. This really sucks considering the cash these Kobra's cost, but considering i've spent 100.00 in breaking other cheapo red-dots with recoil, I thought it was an investment. Any ideas welcome (also, i've had all the work and conversion on my S-12 done by other people as I'm not too mechanical. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hartzpad 0 Posted January 19, 2005 Report Share Posted January 19, 2005 I had to shim my BP-02 low weaver mount from Freedomoptics.com, but mine was very slight. I just cut two little pieces of aluminum out of a soda can, drilled a hole and fit them right under the rear screw to can't it down a little. I had tried to boresight it before this and it was too far off. Now it is perfect on both my Saigas and my VEPR AK's and the aluminum is not noticable at all because it is so thin and it is covered up by the weaver rail. I would be mad if I had spend the $$$$ on a Cobra and still had to shim it. I guess that having to shim should be expected by some with the many different AK variants/maufacturers/scope mounts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Make 5 Posted January 19, 2005 Report Share Posted January 19, 2005 Everything is fine until you get the Kobra with the fixed side rail mounting assembly and I can't get it to zero on target even with max elevation settings. You have noticed (of course), you can elevate kobra sight dot more with removed caps? Mine (Kobra) could not be zeroed with "default" settings... After removing limiting caps, sight can be zeroed. After zeroing, you can install caps back to sight. You can also install them to be on position "0", when the gun (rifle etc.) is zeroed to 100m and you can test what position it has to be when shooting for example 300m... Then you can quickly adjust your Kobra to different distances. Hope this makes sense, since I'm not english speaking person... ;-) --M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kmoore 3 Posted January 19, 2005 Report Share Posted January 19, 2005 Twin, As Make has said, there's a lot of play in the adjustments, but you'll have to pop the top and loosen a retaining screw and lift the dial. If you have already done this, WOW. Any idea how far off you were and how much adjustment you got out of the dot before you ran out of room? If not, here's a site that describes it much better than I can. Author calls it an Unofficial Kobra Site My case I was low ~8 inches @ 15 yards upon first mounting. I took a couple of wrong turns (can't everyone just speak English lolol). When I was done, I think I had to make 3 or 4 complete turns before I got is on. I"ve sighted in for 25 yards. I'll be a touch low before 25 and I don't really know the pattern beyond (haven't had a chance to shoot that distance too much yet). Hmmm, maybe I can get a rough idea from one of the many ballistic programs? Nah, lots funner to shoot it and see. HTH, YMMV, IMO etc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunslinger308 0 Posted January 20, 2005 Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 Are you sure of where the problem is? it could be in the: Side rail on the gun mount clamp scope(or sighting devise-kobra or other red dot) If it is in the gun's side rail then a gunsmith should be able to correct it.(or yourself with a bit of mechanical knowledge) You had less problems with the mounts and red dots? Is your kobra an intergrated mount unit or does it use the picatiny rail mount? If it is the scope then you should take that up with tantal or whoever you got it from. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dodgeturbointerceptor 1 Posted January 20, 2005 Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 OMG! i have the same concerns...i really don't want a mount that is off to any side......i don't care how the russians do that off side aiming shit.....is there a way to mount the Kobra weaver style directly on-line with barrel? who has a mount for this? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Make 5 Posted January 20, 2005 Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 (edited) i have the same concerns...i really don't want a mount that is off to any side......i don't care how the russians do that off side aiming shit.....is there a way to mount the Kobra weaver style directly on-line with barrel? Idea of mounting sight to "side" is when using scope, you can still use iron sights for close shooting. Those mounts are not ment to be used with red dot. Best way to mount Kobra is buy it with mount itself. If you want to have option to use your Kobra with any Weawer -rail weapon, take a look at: http://www.saunalahti.fi/veika1/mil-kiik.htm Finnish site, you may not understand the language, but for pictures... When you roll down the page, you'll find both kinds of mounts; side and top versions. Top version is made by Sibir Optics. Don't know if they'll sell stuff to U.S., but at least you now know how it looks and who makes them... ;-) I must warn about that particular mount: it's pretty high, and sligthly too back to my taste. There are different versions, just couldn't find any picture at the moment, sorry. Is that what you had in mind? --Make Edited January 20, 2005 by Make Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dodgeturbointerceptor 1 Posted January 20, 2005 Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 Centered priority. lowest mounted next. and kobra what kobra model allows perfect centering, and low as possible. a actual kobra model with integral sight? or kobra weaver with some brand sight side mount? pics people! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
swiftvision 0 Posted January 20, 2005 Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 Dodge, I sent you two PM's just to let you know. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Make 5 Posted January 20, 2005 Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 (edited) Centered priority. lowest mounted next. and kobra what kobra model allows perfect centering, and low as possible. a actual kobra model with integral sight? or kobra weaver with some brand sight side mount? pics people! Some pics of my S-12 can be found: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=2208 All of your requirements can be fullfilled: Kobra EKP-1S-03. http://tantal.kalashnikov.guns.ru/kobra1.html Maybe not "latest possible" design, but it really works. Requires 2xAA batteries, is perfectly centered, low and mounts to original side-rail. Using "search", might also help... --Make Using Google with keywords "+weaver +rail +ak +mount": http://www.kalinkaoptics.com/cgi-bin/kowst...20Side%20Mounts ...And much more... Still I think if you're going to use your Kobra only with AK -related guns, buy EKP-1S-03... ;-) Edited January 20, 2005 by Make Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dodgeturbointerceptor 1 Posted January 20, 2005 Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 oh snap! i got the newbie "search..... lol i swear that i did search. i am seeing these threads with crappy pictures. and i am just looking for a CENTERED, LOW-AS-POSSIBLE, SIDE ATTACHED KOBRA SCOPE & MOUNT. i'm afraid to buy the wrong thing. i have no real AK optics experience. If we were talking AR's...i could write a manual on aimpoints, eotech's, and ACOG's. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
swiftvision 0 Posted January 20, 2005 Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 Hey Dodge, I have a very low and very center optic mount. I'll post pics tonight. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gswank 0 Posted June 4, 2007 Report Share Posted June 4, 2007 I just installed a belarus weaver scope mount with a tasco 3to9 variable scope. It is about 18 inches low at 15 yards and 4 inches to the right. adjusters are at there max. I can shim for elevation but what do I do with the left and right. This is a saiga 223. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mccumber1916 1 Posted June 4, 2007 Report Share Posted June 4, 2007 I just installed a belarus weaver scope mount with a tasco 3to9 variable scope. It is about 18 inches low at 15 yards and 4 inches to the right. adjusters are at there max. I can shim for elevation but what do I do with the left and right. This is a saiga 223. your scope may be shot... my ruger rancher destoyed a tasco and simons Quote Link to post Share on other sites
avatar 4 Posted June 4, 2007 Report Share Posted June 4, 2007 I just installed a belarus weaver scope mount with a tasco 3to9 variable scope. It is about 18 inches low at 15 yards and 4 inches to the right. adjusters are at there max. I can shim for elevation but what do I do with the left and right. This is a saiga 223. See the screws at the side (4), remove them and carefully pry the clamp from the mount. Shim either the front or the back as needed. It's a fairly simple job. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
twinhairdryers 2 Posted June 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2007 I just installed a belarus weaver scope mount with a tasco 3to9 variable scope. It is about 18 inches low at 15 yards and 4 inches to the right. adjusters are at there max. I can shim for elevation but what do I do with the left and right. This is a saiga 223. See the screws at the side (4), remove them and carefully pry the clamp from the mount. Shim either the front or the back as needed. It's a fairly simple job. Yes, agreed. that is the beauty (and downfall) of that belarus design. You can shim from side to side with the side assy screws, or the entire top rail part. My suggestion is, if your iron sights are close, get your scope or red-dot mounted on top of the rail close to zero by using the iron sights as a reference. Then you should be close enough with adjustments of the optic to fine tune your zero. But before fine tuning your zero, use a thread locker on all your screws holding the thing together. You will find that even if you do not remove any screws, they back out over time with enough shots and recoil just on their own. You then need to re-zero at the point possibly anyway. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mccumber1916 1 Posted June 5, 2007 Report Share Posted June 5, 2007 the threads may also strip easy... caution is advised scout joe knows... but his belarus is in 2 pieces... each is serving me well Quote Link to post Share on other sites
avatar 4 Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 the threads may also strip easy... caution is advisedscout joe knows... but his belarus is in 2 pieces... each is serving me well In case anyone needs to know you can "force" 8-32's to replace the soft "guess a metal" oem screws. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
twinhairdryers 2 Posted June 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 I just installed a belarus weaver scope mount with a tasco 3to9 variable scope. It is about 18 inches low at 15 yards and 4 inches to the right. adjusters are at there max. I can shim for elevation but what do I do with the left and right. This is a saiga 223. See the screws at the side (4), remove them and carefully pry the clamp from the mount. Shim either the front or the back as needed. It's a fairly simple job. Yes, agreed. that is the beauty (and downfall) of that belarus design. You can shim from side to side with the side assy screws, or the entire top rail part. My suggestion is, if your iron sights are close, get your scope or red-dot mounted on top of the rail close to zero by using the iron sights as a reference. Then you should be close enough with adjustments of the optic to fine tune your zero. But before fine tuning your zero, use a thread locker on all your screws holding the thing together. You will find that even if you do not remove any screws, they back out over time with enough shots and recoil just on their own. You then need to re-zero at the point possibly anyway. OK - this also goes beyond just using thin washers to rough tune your zero for an optic. Another fine note that i have found among all the side mount rails is that they all rely on some flex in the lower steel rail with the adjustment screw and lock washer to sort of control the amont of friction you will put on the rail to flex it into a locked position. With russian steele parts, you will find that over a year or two, this repeated removal, or flex in just holding it onto the rail will weaken the lower bar strength. I actually stopped storing my AK's with the side rails like the Belarus that were cheap material while mounted onto the rail. They hold a memory, or set over time, that makes you tighten the set screw over time (thus adding more stress to the rail), and they eventually fail to stay on. I can only speak for 3 different types of rails, over 4 years time of set to prove this in a Florida environment (15F to 120F), but I think that it is a common complaint over time with cheap Belarus rails. just my 35.00 (er....2c). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mccumber1916 1 Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 swear to me you won't throw it away if you can't use it to get a new one Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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