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How can I tell 12g high brass rounds vs. low brass rounds?


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I am reading MD's email about high brass and his gas plugs and just need to know the difference and need to know if I need a gas plug for my 2nd gen MD20 drum that will be here in a couple of weeks.

 

How can I tell if my rounds are high brass or low brass?

 

And basically that just means how much powder is in the round right?

Edited by TronJohn
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I am reading MD's email about high brass and his gas plugs and just need to know the difference and need to know if I need a gas plug for my 2nd gen MD20 drum that will be here in a couple of weeks.

 

How can I tell if my rounds are high brass or low brass?

 

And basically that just means how much powder is in the round right?

A "High Brass " round has a longer or higher brass casing on the base to help the case withstand the pressure of the larger powder charge and heavier shot load, as a "Low Brass" load is a milder powered load i.e. a field load. Karl

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Ahh yes, I do see the difference.

 

But what makes a round be considered "field" and what does that mean exactly?

 

Obviously the more powder, the harder it will hit,

 

But does that mean low recoil is only good for HD purposes?

 

Will these types of rounds blow through obstructions/barriers? i.e. walls, doors, winshields, car doors etc?

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Not to Hijack but I have similar question but not the same... I noticed on one of the MD post that Mike said some thing about Wolf and other ammo was not true 2 3/4" because it is rolled/crimped??? Newbie question but what is rolled crimped ( I assume the top of the shell is rolled over) and what type is true 2 3/4"??

 

Sorry for the Hijack...

 

-COS

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You are correct. Most all shot loads are crimped. Most slug loads are roll crimped. Old shells, mostly paper were sometimes roll crimped over an over shot card. Mostly that method went out the window about 50 years ago. The length of the shell is 2 3/4 or 3" after its fired. Roll or crimped does npt make any difference. What Mike was refering to is that a lot of the shells from Europe are metric, 70mm or 76,, ect. This does not always come out like it should. I've noticed this with S&B buckshot, what I bought for 2 3/4 was almost as long as our 3". I've not tried any Wolf yet but expect its the same. Hope this helps..........

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Ahh yes, I do see the difference.

 

But what makes a round be considered "field" and what does that mean exactly?

 

'Field' loads are almost always at the low end of the 'Power' scale/low brass. They're usually birdshot in # 7 1/2 or # 8

 

Obviously the more powder, the harder it will hit,

 

Indeed!

 

But does that mean low recoil is only good for HD purposes?

 

Low recoil means LOWER than maximum in a given load. In real life you probably don't want a full power load for home defense bacause you are not shooting a Deer at 25 yards but shooting a Man-imal at half that distance. Penetration is sufficient but it won't go through as many walls in theory.

 

Will these types of rounds blow through obstructions/barriers? i.e. walls, doors, winshields, car doors etc?

 

Which type?

Low Recoil penetrates less but has the same (Usually) # of projectiles.

 

What are you using your new Saiga for? JUST home defence? If so I'd advise a low recoil 000 or 00 Buck.

Edited by Etek
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post-1914-1232509024_thumb.jpg

 

suspected "roll crimp" on the right

 

cheap remington birdshot on the left

 

 

Sorry do not see the diff. on these two...

 

Will 12 Gauge Rio Royal 2 3/4" 9 Pellet Full Power OO Buck or 12 Gauge Fiocchi Reduced Recoil Nickel Plated 00 Buck work with the MD20.. If not what 00 buck 9 pellet will at a good price??

I.E. What to look for when buying or ordering??

 

-COS

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