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Tony,

You put an SRT in my 8"

It worked fine, then I installed a JTTravers light trigger spring.

I am sure I screwed it up re-assembling somehow, but now the hammer won't come off of the disconnector. I do not see any way the new spring could affect this, so again, I am sure it was something I put in wrong.

The bolt puts the hammer back under the disconnector, and the trigger will not pull far enough to force it off (I know the mod is designed for a short pull).

 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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Yeah, I don't know either.

 

But it's my opinion that substituting springs in an S-12 causes problems. Not necessarily your problem, but remember, Tony gets a lot of these emails:

 

"Your gun worked great until I added (other manufacturer's part) to it, now it doesn't work. What should I do to fix it?

 

LOL the first thing I would do is take that spring back out and see if it fixes it. Then call Jack Travers and ask him how to make his spring work. Those SRT triggers are hand-tuned by Tony on each gun for correct release.

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You can do whatever you want with your gun, you own it... That being said, the reduced power spring REALLY made a difference in my trigger pull weights, it's fantastic.

 

I also have the reduced power main spring and all I can say is wow but when a man with the knowledge of Tony hand tunes your trigger.....

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You can do whatever you want with your gun, you own it... That being said, the reduced power spring REALLY made a difference in my trigger pull weights, it's fantastic.

 

I also have the reduced power main spring and all I can say is wow but when a man with the knowledge of Tony hand tunes your trigger.....

 

 

I'm sure it's a fantastic trigger, and I'm sure Tony will guide GLOCKshooter to a solution that allows the short trigger AND the spring.

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I think that some folks are missing the point. It is one thing to expect a man to stand behind his work, yet quite another to expect him to stand behind another's. However, there is nothing wrong in asking.

 

I hope that you get your trigger problem resolved, but I think that it is great advice to try the original spring to see if that corrects the problem.

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I don't know what Tony told the OP, and it's none of my business.

That said, I have a customer who likes to put together 1911s as a hobby to fill his time.

He brings me guns to fit parts when they don't go together right, which seems to happen often enough, as he's buying gunshow unnamed parts. Such parts turn out to be out of spec all too often.

Anyway, I get it all fitted and working as it should. Later, he brings it back, he's added something else, but it also needs refitting, it doesn't work again. Seems he's removed some of those carefully fitted parts when he had it apart, and put in some others. Now it needs refitting. I ask him why he didn't put the parts that came out of it back in, as they were fitted to work together, and he tells me he put them in another gun he's building.

 

It can be frustrating.

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I don't know what Tony told the OP, and it's none of my business.

That said, I have a customer who likes to put together 1911s as a hobby to fill his time.

He brings me guns to fit parts when they don't go together right, which seems to happen often enough, as he's buying gunshow unnamed parts. Such parts turn out to be out of spec all too often.

Anyway, I get it all fitted and working as it should. Later, he brings it back, he's added something else, but it also needs refitting, it doesn't work again. ... It can be frustrating.

Wow, sounds like a solid customer to me, I used to have a two-way radio customer like that, I made a lot of honest money off of his lack of judgement! :lolol:

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  • 2 weeks later...

On topic- I finally got time to disassemble the gun. Tony was right on the money with his e-mail, the gist of which was that if the pins back out any, it will cause this exact issue. Turns out I need a new shepherds hook. THANKS Tony!

 

Off topic a bit-

 

Tony himself suggested I turn elsewhere for work he did not do.

 

I wanted a top rail, and he was between the modified aluminum one that hew stopped doing and the steel one that was just a plan, and gave me suggestions of a few people who could do a top rail for me. I am waiting on one from Shannon at Cobra.

 

Same with the Krink Brake, Tony suggested I have someone else make one, he didn't like the "coffee can" look, made several muzzle devices he liked, and was moving away from the one-off's. Sad side story on that, I was working on that with Kurt from Kurt's Kustom Firearms when Kurt was killed in a motorcycle accident. Tony was kind enough to send him info on the muzzle threading.

 

Anyway, thanks again for a way cool gun, and the pin advice Tony! I would tell you you rock, but you know that, as does anyone else reading this forum. I am off to hunt for a new hook, or maybe a retaining plate or e-clips.

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Good to see that it was a small problem I had one a bit different with my FCG that I had changed

 

I made my trigger super shot reset and when I got the reduced power spring I had the same problem. It's that the spring is weaker and doesn't push the back end of the trigger as much so the disconnector stays on the hammer. I know that doesn't make much since but if you push a little on the back of the trigger fast it will disconnect the hammer. It was all a little to tight. I had to file the ends very little that I added to the FCG to make it work. It will give you a softer trigger but it will add a small amount more to the trigger pull. I mean it will not be as Short Rest. At least that is my experience with mine. I may have done the SRT different. I added metal to the rear bottom of the FCG for the rear travel and used a double hook filed for the front travel.

 

Edit I did put the original spring in before re fitting the FCG to confirm it had something to do with the new spring. It only needed about 1 millimeter more travel to work all the time. Not really the spring fault just to tight on my fitting.

Edited by madmax4x4
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  • 3 weeks later...

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