SovietGinger 16 Posted August 9, 2009 Report Share Posted August 9, 2009 So I converted my Saiga by moving the trigger group forward (Tapco G2 for Saigas), installing the JTE performance power mainspring for Saiga and AK variants, Krebs custom retaining plate, Hogue pistol grip and AK stock. The hammer seemed to be firing properly in my living room and everything was in order so I brought it to the range with 40 rounds of Brown Bear 308. I have never had issues with that ammo and have shot around 400 rounds through the gun pre-conversion. I get to the range and lock and load. I fire 3 in a row fine. 4th round the hammer goes click but round doesn't fire. For the first 20 rounds I had maybe 50% of them with a pin strike indentation but no detonation. Opened up the dust cover and everything looked in place. The next 20 rounds had maybe a 10-20% failure rate. It would fire 5, miss 1, fire 4 etc. I am not sure if this is pure randomness of failure or whether it was getting better as I shot more. I should have brought more ammo with me. What could be causing this issue? Does it have something to do with the trigger/mainspring I installed? Is it purely an ammunition loading issue? Do I need to "break in" the new trigger set and mainspring to work properly after conversion? One unresolved issue I have with the internal components is that the trigger can slide from left to right in the default hole that was cut into the receiver. However, it still seems to release the hammer fine whether it is left or right. What would be the recommended method of keeping the trigger in place, and should it be against the left wall or right wall if you were aiming the gun forward? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Donkismash 81 Posted August 9, 2009 Report Share Posted August 9, 2009 could be the reduced power mainspring....not enough oomph to ignite the primer or just bad ammo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BKLYN_C 14 Posted August 9, 2009 Report Share Posted August 9, 2009 Agree with Donkismash. Thats one possibility. Puth the OEM spring back in and go to range Besides that, I remember I had to grind the hammer to make it clear cross member. It could be that hammer doesnt travel far enough. One tenth of millimeter could make all the difference here Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elvis christ 451 Posted August 9, 2009 Report Share Posted August 9, 2009 What kind of ammo are you using? I agree, you should also check the hammer to make sure it's clearing the cross member. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pointer55 1 Posted August 9, 2009 Report Share Posted August 9, 2009 Agree with Donkismash. Thats one possibility. Puth the OEM spring back in and go to range Besides that, I remember I had to grind the hammer to make it clear cross member. It could be that hammer doesnt travel far enough. One tenth of millimeter could make all the difference here +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
oxyehho 8 Posted August 9, 2009 Report Share Posted August 9, 2009 One unresolved issue I have with the internal components is that the trigger can slide from left to right in the default hole that was cut into the receiver. However, it still seems to release the hammer fine whether it is left or right. What would be the recommended method of keeping the trigger in place, and should it be against the left wall or right wall if you were aiming the gun forward? Get a 1/4" aluminum spacer and put it on the trigger axis - it should stop the movement. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Darth AkSarBen 20 Posted August 10, 2009 Report Share Posted August 10, 2009 (edited) What could be causing this issue? Does it have something to do with the trigger/mainspring I installed? Is it purely an ammunition loading issue? Do I need to "break in" the new trigger set and mainspring to work properly after conversion? SovietGinger, I had the same issue. I installed that new hammer main spring and had miss fires and miss fires. PMC had indents on primer, Federal Cartridge had same and was about to take it over to a guy that has a .223 AR when I tried going back to the original main spring, you know... that funny coiled thing that it came with. Never had another issue. I even fired those rounds that refused to go off before. I have one of those main springs in the desk drawer, and there is where it is setting. Sometimes "new" is not always best. My spring in my drawer says JT Engineering from Palm Springs FL. Want to buy one?? Edited August 10, 2009 by Darth AkSarBen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SovietGinger 16 Posted August 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2009 What could be causing this issue? Does it have something to do with the trigger/mainspring I installed? Is it purely an ammunition loading issue? Do I need to "break in" the new trigger set and mainspring to work properly after conversion? SovietGinger, I had the same issue. I installed that new hammer main spring and had miss fires and miss fires. PMC had indents on primer, Federal Cartridge had same and was about to take it over to a guy that has a .223 AR when I tried going back to the original main spring, you know... that funny coiled thing that it came with. Never had another issue. I even fired those rounds that refused to go off before. I have one of those main springs in the desk drawer, and there is where it is setting. Sometimes "new" is not always best. My spring in my drawer says JT Engineering from Palm Springs FL. Want to buy one?? I put the old spring back in last night. I will try to test it out this week and let you know how it goes Thanks for the troubleshooting help guys. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodes1968 1,638 Posted August 10, 2009 Report Share Posted August 10, 2009 Also make sure the round is being chambered fully. An out of battery round will show a light strike, just check after each round chambers to see if the bolt handle is fully forward. If not give it a shove and see if it moves forward. Of course as always keep weapon pointed down range. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SovietGinger 16 Posted August 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2009 (edited) Putting in the original Saiga mainspring fixed the problems 100%. 60 rounds through it today without a single misfire. The conversion was completely worth it! The new trigger pulls with almost zero effort and my groups are quite similar to my AR-15 at 100 yards. It is like an entirely new gun. Now I need more money to buy and convert more Saigas... perhaps a S-12 this time. Edited August 13, 2009 by SovietGinger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodes1968 1,638 Posted August 13, 2009 Report Share Posted August 13, 2009 They are nice. Even Boston T. Party likes the S308 and that guy is hard core FAL and M1A though the M1A is losing a lot of ground lately. Just dont understand why people charge so much to convert the rifle, not hard at all when you have done one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
XXasdf 29 Posted August 13, 2009 Report Share Posted August 13, 2009 Putting in the original Saiga mainspring fixed the problems 100%. 60 rounds through it today without a single misfire. The conversion was completely worth it! The new trigger pulls with almost zero effort and my groups are quite similar to my AR-15 at 100 yards. It is like an entirely new gun. Now I need more money to buy and convert more Saigas... perhaps a S-12 this time. My first saiga was the .308, then after I finished with my conversion I went for the S12. It certainly wouldn't be a bad investment. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Darth AkSarBen 20 Posted August 13, 2009 Report Share Posted August 13, 2009 Glad it worked out, SovietGinger!!! BTW I was curious on what barrel length you have? You did not mention it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SovietGinger 16 Posted August 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2009 16inches of beauty Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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