Trigger creep

[kleypasp 1]

I am pretty new to the forum and have recently completed a conversion on my S-12. I would not have known where to start without all of the information on this forum. Thank you for all of the helpful information.

 

While working on the conversion I noticed a lot of creep in the trigger ( I used a Tapco single hook). To remove some of the excessive creep I cut a small square form 0.026" thick sheet metal and placed it under the two arms behind the trigger where they rest on the inside of the receiver. The spacer is secured with the screw behind the trigger from the DIY trigger guard. The trigger feels much better now. It has about 1/2 the creep it used to have. I will try to post pictures, but I have never done this before.

 

Does anybody have any other ideas to reduce the creep?? Does this sound like a good idea or a bad idea??

 

 

 

Thanks,

 

Relicdad

[corbin 621]

I seem to remember a couple other folks here on the forum doing something similar. I've heard of trigger groups with set screws to adjust take up (creep) and overtravel too, but my personal opinion is that for a combat shotgun, I don't need a match grade trigger. I'd be afraid of one of the screws coming loose and rendering the weapon useless when I needed it most.

 

I can't see your idea as doing that though, so I'd probably be willing to try it, if I wasn't happy with my trigger.

 

 

 

This is just my opinion though, so take it or ignore it as you like.

 

 

 

Corbin

[kleypasp 1]

I seem to remember a couple other folks here on the forum doing something similar. I've heard of trigger groups with set screws to adjust take up (creep) and overtravel too, but my personal opinion is that for a combat shotgun, I don't need a match grade trigger. I'd be afraid of one of the screws coming loose and rendering the weapon useless when I needed it most.

 

I can't see your idea as doing that though, so I'd probably be willing to try it, if I wasn't happy with my trigger.

 

 

 

This is just my opinion though, so take it or ignore it as you like.

 

 

 

Corbin

 

 

Thanks,

 

I was looking for some feedback before I finish it. I plan on putting some superglue underneith the spacer before I locktite the screw back in.

[zenmetsu 17]

I ordered a RedStar Arms trigger group which has the set screws. I agree that you do not need a match grade trigger, but being able to get it to your liking is a nice thing. I plan on using some red loctite and cannot imagine the screws working themselves free since there is not much heat making its way to the FCG.

 

Shock is another thing. The bolt is going to be beating the living shit out of the FCG, so we'll see how that loctite holds up.

[BUFF_dragon 3]

I'm curious if there are any other ways of getting rid of the creep. I dont really want a 'match' trigger, but I would like to have a shorter, harder pull on it, much more like my Para Warthog

Edited August 29, 2009 by BUFF_dragon

[quinci956 1]

I ordered a RedStar Arms trigger group which has the set screws. I agree that you do not need a match grade trigger, but being able to get it to your liking is a nice thing. I plan on using some red loctite and cannot imagine the screws working themselves free since there is not much heat making its way to the FCG.

 

Shock is another thing. The bolt is going to be beating the living shit out of the FCG, so we'll see how that loctite holds up.

+1 zenmetsu

I have used Red Star in all my conversions

[kleypasp 1]

I'm curious if there are any other ways of getting rid of the creep. I dont really want a 'match' trigger, but I would like to have a shorter, harder pull on it, much more like my Para Warthog

 

 

It didn't make it any where close to "match" but the pull is a lot shorter - about half what it was.

 

Thanks,

Relicdad

[Azrial 1,091]

I have a second spacer that I have cut to go under the front of the trigger.

[corbin 621]

Wouldn't puting one in the front of the trigger increase the trigger travel distance?

[Raoul_Duke 113]

Shimming up the trigger works great if you can't weld. I posted this and was surprised it was not more well received . . . I guess you have to try it to know how well it works.

 

And yeah, like Azrial said and I pointed out in my "Redneck" tutorial, shim up the front and back to cut out the most travel.

 

Loctite will hold fine for this application. I put hundreds of rounds down range without loctite before the front shim came loose.

 

The best thing about this is you get a huge change in your trigger for a small (or no) impact on your wallet. Oh yeah, don't forget to polish the contact surfaces of your FCG. You don't have to, but it does smooth up the trigger pull even more.

 

Wouldn't puting one in the front of the trigger increase the trigger travel distance?

Nope.

[jstruthers82 1]

Shimming up the trigger works great if you can't weld. I posted this and was surprised it was not more well received . . . I guess you have to try it to know how well it works.

 

And yeah, like Azrial said and I pointed out in my "Redneck" tutorial, shim up the front and back to cut out the most travel.

 

Loctite will hold fine for this application. I put hundreds of rounds down range without loctite before the front shim came loose.

 

The best thing about this is you get a huge change in your trigger for a small (or no) impact on your wallet. Oh yeah, don't forget to polish the contact surfaces of your FCG. You don't have to, but it does smooth up the trigger pull even more.

 

Wouldn't puting one in the front of the trigger increase the trigger travel distance?

Nope.

Good idea with the shimming.

You probably know already but just in case.

There are several loc-tite types that are two part products and are significantly stronger than what you usually pick up at the Auto parts store. Some are darn near permanant.

Often you have to hit the Loc-tite site to find the best product for your application.

FWIW

If you measure 5 feet 11 inches and over from tip of middle finger to tip middle finger (arms spread)

you might want to check out a stock or telescoping stock longer than what you currently have.

Believe it or not most folks have a tip to tip measurement close to their heigth and is actually wider than taller later in life due to spinal compression over time.

Ergonomics of a longer stock changes the trigger hand/finger position as well as opening up the trigger side elbow angle.

Without a pistol grip it changes the position of trigger finger pad a little - for the better - and slack/draw on the trigger is not as apparent. (IMO)

The down side is that it extends the support hand/arm out as well.

When I was stationed in Germany we used to shoot with the French in Trier. They had transitioned to the Famas Bullpup -great rifle- but still had those old short woodstocked semi-auto Famas rifles wich were almost impossible to aim (and shoot). They had several with custom long stocks that made a world of difference.