REKIII 0 Posted September 8, 2009 Report Share Posted September 8, 2009 Unfotunately I did not play enough with the preconverted saiga, so I'm not certain how the safety 'used' to work. If I have the safety off (down), I can pull the bolt back and load the chamber, then I can fire. If I pull the bolt back, let it go forward, then move the safety lever up, I can still fire. If I have the safety closed, pull the bolt back to the safety point, I can still fire. Fire, in all these cases meaning I can pull the trigger and the hammer springs. Is this correct? Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deussne 38 Posted September 8, 2009 Report Share Posted September 8, 2009 Huh, whats going on? Did you put the safety lever in after you got the conversion done yourself? When you are testing all this, do you have the rifle assebled, with all the parts in, including the gas piston, bolt, cover and the spring? With all the parts on, and safety lever down,once you charge the bolt (pull the handle all the way back and release) you should be able to pull the trigger. Then once you do that again (pull the handle all the way back and release) after which you lift the safety UP it should not let you pull the trigget to the point where it will release it. If that still happens check to see if your tab on a safety lever is broken or the tabs on the back of the trigger are missing/damaged.. Other wise I dont know what to tell you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mtjccmotel 12 Posted September 8, 2009 Report Share Posted September 8, 2009 Read the Safety Problem thread that is tacked at the top of the 308 section. On the 308 I had with the standard tapco fire control group I had to build up the tab on the safety lever so that it would engage the back right side of the trigger. The safety lever needed about 1/4" added so that it would engage the safety when the lever was selected in the safe position. The safety blocks the trigger from moving up and releasing the hammer when the safety is engaged. I built my safety up past what was required then filed it down to fit and engage properly. If I remember correctly the Safety Problem thread was pretty detailed on what needed to be done. I hope this helps. Be safe and correct the safety issue, stating the obvious but, don't take a gun out in the field that doesn't have a properly functioning safety. If you have the equipment or a buddy who welds it's not a big deal to correct. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
REKIII 0 Posted September 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2009 OK, that sounds like my problem (need to build up the safety). I missed the tacked post. Kind of sucks, but glad I asked. Yes I definitly want the safety working correctly before using. Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stansplace 414 Posted September 8, 2009 Report Share Posted September 8, 2009 Dinzag ships his ready to go!!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
N4KVE 14 Posted September 9, 2009 Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 When I had my .308 modified, the smith used a FSE FCG to avoid this problem. GARY N4KVE Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greatmoose 4 Posted September 9, 2009 Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 Two easy solutions to the problem (I was the one who started the safety thread): 1) Use a standard AK (I used a Romanian) safety lever; the tab is longer 2) Use Dinzag's FCG. Doesn't need the longer tab Quote Link to post Share on other sites
saiga1234 0 Posted September 10, 2009 Report Share Posted September 10, 2009 I have Dinzag's trigger group. But, my safety was still too short. Went to the local machine shop. For $3 they welded the tab. Two minutes with a dremel and it works beautifully. Check out the local welder. Cheaper than a new selector. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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