Tapco Trigger on Saiga 12 Doesn't Stay Cocked, Other Problems

[Biff Stroganoff 1]

I finally got around to starting the conversion on my Saiga 12. I used a machinist's center drill to start the holes on the side rivets, and that made it very easy to follow with an ordinary bit in a hand drill. I started the holes in the trigger guard rivets using a milling machine and center drill, and again, I ended up with starter holes that allowed the use of a hand drill.

 

I had a couple of problems.

 

First, there is a flat grey piece of sheet metal that goes in the receiver to the right of the trigger (as you look from butt toward sights). I put a Tapco fire control group in the gun, but I didn't know whether this piece of metal was supposed to be kept or discarded. Seems like it only works when this piece is gone. Clues would be appreciated. The Tapco stuff did not come with instructions.

 

Second, I have two springs left over. One is long, and it retained the pins that hold the FCG in. The other is short. I don't know where it goes, or if I still need it. It's just a loop about 1/4"-3/8" in diameter, with two short ends projecting off of it at right angles to each other, more or less. Do I need this?

 

Third, the gun won't stay cocked when I pull the bolt. The stock trigger spring doesn't seem to grip the right side of the new trigger very well. I think it needs to be bent so it stays put. Maybe if I do this, it will exert enough pressure on the trigger to hold the hammer in place when the bolt goes forward. Is this the right approach?

 

Fourth, I now have a bare area where the old trigger guard used to be. I was thinking I'd just cover it with Super Blue for now. Is this what other people do?

 

Finally, the coating on this gun is crap. I'd like to send it off and get it re-done, because the alternative is to invest in blasting equipment. Is there anyone out there who is currently doing this kind of work without a six-month backlog?

 

Thanks.

[TonyRumore 1,332]

You probably have the hammer installed backwards. You have to grind that hump off the front of it, in order to install it.

If you just installed the hammer with no mods to it, you put it in backwards.

You will also need to grind down the R/H boss where the pin goes through in order to clear your bolt-hold-open lever.

That circular spring with 2 legs is the spring that holds the lever down.

 

Tony

[Biff Stroganoff 1]

Thanks for the help. I tried to keep track of the parts, but I apparently didn't do a great job.

[bigcec1 72]

You may want to go to carolina shooters supplys web site they have some nice vids that might help you a lot

[Biff Stroganoff 1]

Okay, it looks like I am somewhat more inept than I realized. I thought this was an unmodified Tapco FCG, but it turns out it's a Tromix from Magnolia State Armory. Does this hammer appear to be in backward? You can see how the spring doesn't catch the trigger correctly on the right side. I am going to try to fix that.

 

[Biff Stroganoff 1]

You may want to go to carolina shooters supplys web site they have some nice vids that might help you a lot

 

Will do.

[nsa400 11]

Looks like tony is correct. Remove hammer turn it around and install.

[Biff Stroganoff 1]

If I put the safety on before I reinstall the BHO, I can't get the BHO and spring in. If I put the BHO in first, I can't get the safety back in. What's the answer?

[TonyRumore 1,332]

With everything out of the receiver, install the trigger first and pin the BHO spring in place on the R/H side of it.

Then install the safety. Then drop the BHO lever in place on the R/H side of the receiver.

Then install the hammer (the other way. you have it backwards now) and pin it in place. Then reach in with a dental pick and lift the BHO spring leg up and over onto the BHO lever.

Then install the shepherds crook to hold the pins in place.

 

Tony

[Biff Stroganoff 1]

So I'm screwed with regard to getting the safety back in, unless I start from scratch. I see why people throw out their BHO levers.

 

Thanks again for the help.

[bigcec1 72]

No your not screwed an easy way is take the bho and lift it up so its pointing straight up the put the safty leaver in if you don't have the trigger guard in already and don't have the safty stop there rotate the safty leaver downward like the fire position but go past the fire portion basicly over rotate past where the stop is suposta be and then drop the bho down and you can get it in just make shure not to drop the bho onto of the bho spring then get it down in its slot take a dental pick and pick the spring leg up and over the little catch if that's to hard remove the butt stock and go in from the rear it might be easier for you that way

[Biff Stroganoff 1]

I reinstalled everything, including turning the hammer around. Now the bolt won't go in. It seems to catch on the back of the hammer.

 

I thought this was a Tapco FCG, but according to Magnolia's receipt, it's actually a Tromix. Shouldn't it go in without modification?

 

The dental pick didn't work for me, but I found something easier. I straightened a paper clip and made a tiny hook in the end of it, just big enough to hold the spring wire. I made a bigger loop on the other end, big enough to go around the pick handle. I put the small loop around the spring and pulled toward the front of the gun, using the pick in the bigger loop as a handle. Might be helpful to someone else.

 

Here's what I have now.

 

[bigcec1 72]

Getting the bolt back in might be a pain make shure that the head of the bolt is lined up correctly then set it in the gun pressing downward while going forward make shure the bolt is not crooked in there and that the groove on the bolt is lined up underneith before you put it in if its not it will catch the shell ejector a piece of metal that is sticking up in the reciever

[oxyehho 8]

I reinstalled everything, including turning the hammer around. Now the bolt won't go in. It seems to catch on the back of the hammer.

 

I thought this was a Tapco FCG, but according to Magnolia's receipt, it's actually a Tromix. Shouldn't it go in without modification?

 

The dental pick didn't work for me, but I found something easier. I straightened a paper clip and made a tiny hook in the end of it, just big enough to hold the spring wire. I made a bigger loop on the other end, big enough to go around the pick handle. I put the small loop around the spring and pulled toward the front of the gun, using the pick in the bigger loop as a handle. Might be helpful to someone else.

 

Here's what I have now.

No biggie - just push the hammer down, sometimes it might help to pull the trigger and push the hammer down (at the same time, so hammer doesn't go bam and strike the center support), then slide the bolt carrier and bolt over.

Also, bend your mainspring right leg outwards a bit - I saw it jumping off the trigger leg - it might be not allowing the hammer to go all the way down.

[Biff Stroganoff 1]

Is that a nice way of saying I'm too stupid to put the bolt back in? If so, you may be right. I have a PSL, and I've never really understood how the bolt should be oriented before putting it back in.

[Biff Stroganoff 1]

Is that a nice way of saying I'm too stupid to put the bolt back in? If so, you may be right.

 

I thought I was kidding when I wrote that, but it turned out to be true. I got the bolt back in, and I got so excited, I cocked it so I could dry-fire it and celebrate. And of course, I had failed to put the spring in, so the bolt came right back out.

 

Thanks for all the assistance. Now if someone could give me advice on getting this thing refinished...

[negev5021 25]

Thanks for all the assistance. Now if someone could give me advice on getting this thing refinished...

 

 

well, start by taking all the stuff you just put in back out....

[Biff Stroganoff 1]

What fantastic news.

 

Actually I was wondering whether Brownell's Gun-kote in a can sprays on as thin and uniform as Norrell moly resin in an airbrush. I have no airbrush, but I guess I could run to Harbor Freight.

[sure2survive 2]

 

We have a Guy in town that ceramic coats saiga 12's with NIC industries ceramic also known as Lava Shield. This is the best coating in the industry hands down. He normally takes 2 to 3 weeks for turn around. His business is Cuervo Custom coating and his name is Jose. I think it runs $350 for a complete coating of every single part in gun including FCG, piston, springs ect.

PM me if you want his phone number.

 

Here are pics of a AK he just did for me

Edited November 22, 2009 by sure2survive

[thedave8 0]

I knew a Steve Graham in Daytona Beach......