surefire saiga 12 mag ?

[dj59 0]

I put CAA fvg w/light holder on my Tapco handgaurd and can't get the 12 round mag in now without moving the tac rail fwrd. I don't like the length of the 12 rd either.

I know there is info here somwhere on how to shorten the 12rd to 8rd on Surefire mags, but I can't find it.

PLEASE help. I can cut the mag body, tha's obvious, BUT do I have to cut down the spring too ??

 

ALSO, I cut my 21" barrel down to 18.4", now I want to add a 'slip on' muzzle break, any suggestions ??

ALSO, what are the details about shotgun barrel shortening, is the length of the barrel "the bore" or the entire barrel ??

ALSO, Do I need a better gas plug than OEM ??

 

Thanks for your help.

phoenix1959@comcast.net

Edited January 15, 2010 by fmj50

[Bvamp 604]

well take the mag apart, and where the protruding lines around the mag is, is where you cut the mag back to, leaving the protruding plastic for the floorplate to reattach to. simple enough. you shouldnt have to cut the spring down if you are only going to ten rounds. you CAN if you want to, but unless you get shorter than that, you wont really need to. 8 rounds, well, take a little bit off of it, so that you arent overcompressing the spring when you reinstall it. under a 1/4 of it if you go to 8 rounds should be enough.

 

 

next question for non threaded barrel (12 gauge) - http://www.saiga-12....prod=EFS%2DM3MP

 

barrel length is measured from the breech face to the tip of the muzzle. (with the bolt closed, of course)

 

the OEM plug itself is just fine, and other US made gas adjustment plugs are for specific uses and or fixes.If you have a gas issue after the gun's break in period, you may be eligible for a free warranty service on the gun.

[dj59 0]

well take the mag apart, and where the protruding lines around the mag is, is where you cut the mag back to, leaving the protruding plastic for the floorplate to reattach to. simple enough. you shouldnt have to cut the spring down if you are only going to ten rounds. you CAN if you want to, but unless you get shorter than that, you wont really need to. 8 rounds, well, take a little bit off of it, so that you arent overcompressing the spring when you reinstall it. under a 1/4 of it if you go to 8 rounds should be enough.

 

 

next question for non threaded barrel (12 gauge) - http://www.saiga-12....prod=EFS%2DM3MP

 

barrel length is measured from the breech face to the tip of the muzzle. (with the bolt closed, of course)

 

the OEM plug itself is just fine, and other US made gas adjustment plugs are for specific uses and or fixes.If you have a gas issue after the gun's break in period, you may be eligible for a free warranty service on the gun.

[dj59 0]

Thank You for that fast response. Also, do I need to cut the mag spring down going from 12 to 8 rd ??

Thanks again for your help.

Edited January 17, 2010 by fmj50

[Colon Terminus 61]

Thank You for that fast response. I now know i'm under 18", so adding the muzzle break will make it legal ?? (maybe I can just braze it on ?? Also, do I need to cut the mag spring down going from 12 to 8 rd ??

Thanks again for your help.

 

As Bvamp said previously, if you cut the mag down to 8 rounds, then you can/should cut off 1/4 or so of the spring. Cut a few coils then try it. If it needs more cut off, cut coils one at a time. It's easy to cut coils off, and damn hard to put 'em back on if you cut too many.

 

To measure your barrel length:

Close the bolt

Drop a dowel rod down the bore till it hits the bolt face

Mark the dowel rod at the muzzle

Remove the dowel rod

Measure from the end of the dowel rod (where it hit the bolt) to your mark

That measurement should be slightly greter than 18"

[Cobra 76 two 2,677]

Did you guys offering advice on cutting the spring actually talk to Phil about that, or try it yourself first?

[Will486 7]

or... If you can live with the length and bulkiness of the mag, (I know we all hate it, but it is the price we pay for incredible magazine capacity), pick up a Krebs Canted Grip adapter. Mount your grip as far back as you like, and still change mags rock n lock style.

 

 

The more expensive solution is to get a JTE SureFire Magwell, so the mags insert in and drop out without having to "rock" them forward or rearward.

[Bvamp 604]

Did you guys offering advice on cutting the spring actually talk to Phil about that, or try it yourself first?

 

he will probably be fine without cutting it, but its simple to just clip a loop or two off if the mag becomes difficult to load.....

 

 

besides, Ive already checked, and the saiga12 feeds just fine just from gravity alone while inverted with nothing but the shell weight pressing down......

[corbin 621]

 

 

I've converted a few and trimmed the spring and I've got several that have the full length spring. I've found zero difference between them with everything I've fired so far. In theory, a heavier spring might help with heavier kicking rounds and a lighter spring with lighter kicking rounds.

 

Something about the lighter spring not being able to keep up with the faster cycling heavy rounds......and excessive upward pressure of the top round against the bolt when firing lighter loads with a heavy spring. But once my Saiga was broken in, polished up and everything, it's super reliable with both mags shooting all types of ammo (even the crap Win bulk stuff).

 

 

Hope this helped

 

 

Corbin

 

 

the saiga12 feeds just fine just from gravity alone while inverted with nothing but the shell weight pressing down......

 

 

Cool to know about gravity feed.

Edited January 15, 2010 by Corbin

[Racer 27 37]

I've heard of pinning and of a good tack weld for securing a muzzle brake but haven't heard anything about brazening.

Edited January 18, 2010 by Racer 27

[corbin 621]

+1 to Racer's comment.

 

I missed what you had said about the barrel. What I suspect you meant was that it LOOKED like you were under 18" on your REMOVED barrel, but you've since confirmed that everything is OK.

 

I understand the proper way to measure barrel length is to drop a dowel rod down the barrel until it hits the closed bolt face. Mark the rod at end of barrel, remove and measure to the mark. To avoid the rod canting or anything, I'd suggest using a rod just under the inner dia of your barrel.

 

Corbin

 

 

P.S. Not sure about brazing, but silver solder, blind pinning and welding I believe are acceptable.

Edited January 15, 2010 by Corbin