slm9s 0 Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 OK, I'm the guy who bought a "converted" S308 only to find the trigger had not been milled out to clear the rivet. Luckily, the gun shop I bought it from agreed to buy a Dinzag "drop in" trigger group and ship it to me. So . . . I finally got around to installing it. Wasn't too bad, trigger feels pretty nice. BUT, when I try to put the bolt back in, it doesn't clear the top of the hammer. Then I get to looking, and the cut-out to clear the rivet is above the rivet. Anyone know what could be wrong? It looks like everything is 1/4" too high in the receiver, the bolt doesn't have clearance to be put in, and the cut-out for the rivet is 1/4" or so too high. I'm going to give Dinzag a call, but it always seems to be late when I get off work. Thanks, Steve in Tacoma Quote Link to post Share on other sites
saigafreake 27 Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 getting the bolt carrier assy back on the 308 is always kinda tricky you just got to not baby it and put some force into it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kresk 10,063 Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 Assuming the hammer is cocked, apply downward and forward pressure on the bolt carrier to overcome the hammer spring pressure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
slm9s 0 Posted January 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 I'm pretty darn sure that pressure isn't the problem. I pushed until it almost needed a mallet to get it unstuck. Took some finish off the top of the hammer even. I just think something is wrong, that the bolt won't go in and the cutout for that rivet is off by 1/4". I can't get the gun together to see if it will hit the firing pin or not, but I assume the cutout if there so that the hammer can travel some necessary additional distance, which its not getting. Anyway, any more ideas? Will pics help? Thanks, Steve Assuming the hammer is cocked, apply downward and forward pressure on the bolt carrier to overcome the hammer spring pressure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
saigafreake 27 Posted January 20, 2010 Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 pics will definetly help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elvis christ 451 Posted January 20, 2010 Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 pics will definetly help. +1. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mtjccmotel 12 Posted January 20, 2010 Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 I would confirm that the Fire Control Group that the gun shop ordered and sent to you is the correct one for the 308. I don't know how Dinzag ships his parts as I converted mine from a Tapco G2 that I modified prior to Dinzag selling his pre-modded, but I would check the packaging/invoice to confirm it is the correct one. If it is the correct modified FCG then post pictures. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
slm9s 0 Posted January 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 I hope its something stupid like I put something in backwards, but here are the pics: #1 from the front showing the cutout above the pin, #2 from the rear, #3 in the cocked position showing the wear from me trying to force the bolt in, #4 showing the pin placement on the side of the receiver. Does that help? Thanks, Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bigcec1 72 Posted January 22, 2010 Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 Does the back side of the hammer sit ontop of the bolt nut for the trigger guard it looks like it might be touching I could be wrong looks like something was rubbing the back side of the hammer but make shure that your bolt head and all is lined up correctly when you go back togather with it how far can you push the hammer down with your hand ? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JulianH 4 Posted January 22, 2010 Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 It looks OK to me, the bolt/hammer fitment is often quite tight, even on a stock hammer. Try pushing the hammer down with your finger, and pull the trigger to lock the hammer onto the disconnector instead of the trigger. That might give you enough clearance to get the bolt carrier back in. It's kind of a PITA to get the bolt and carrier lined back up just so, then you have to smack it to push it down and forward into the channel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted January 22, 2010 Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 Well....I had decided it wasn't even worth posting here any more but.....after I PMed you and read your other thread, I have to at least find out what "gun shop back east" you bought this "converted gun" from. If you don't want to say in public, at least PM it to me so I will know who to tell people to stay away from here in the east. They need to stick to just selling guns and parts, and not attempt any more Saiga conversions. The first problem is the way they decided to attach the front of the trigger guard. Looking at it from the side makes my eyes hurt. They have it pinched inward so far trying to reach the existing hole in the receiver, there's hardly any room left for your finger. Then they used that big ass bolt with a huge nut on the back. Your hammer is probably hitting on the nut and bolt, keeping it from being able to go down far enough to allow the bolt carrier to be installed. I don't see how it was ever able to even be assembled unless they had cut out another notch in the back of the hammer to clear the bolt and nut. Wow....I already sent you a PM with the answer, and how to fix the problem, but thought it best to warn others about this gun shop and their crappy work. Here's what your TG could look like.... (if reusing the factory TG). This is my Saiga .308 conversion.... much more like the classic factory AK TG. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JulianH 4 Posted January 22, 2010 Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 That nut could be the problem, but the bolt carrier was installable with the unmodified G2 hammer, so it should be possible to get it in with the new hammer. I suppose that even if you did get the bolt carrier back in, that nut could prevent it from cycling properly, though. Are you able to push the hammer an additional 1/8" or so below the point where it gets caught by the trigger? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
slm9s 0 Posted January 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 Thanks for all the help. Took the nut off, and sure enough, everything seems to work correctly now. As for the gunshop, they didn't convert it, they took it in on trade. I think they did me right by paying for the new trigger group. Can't wait to shoot it, tough when its dark at 5pm here. That nut could be the problem, but the bolt carrier was installable with the unmodified G2 hammer, so it should be possible to get it in with the new hammer. I suppose that even if you did get the bolt carrier back in, that nut could prevent it from cycling properly, though. Are you able to push the hammer an additional 1/8" or so below the point where it gets caught by the trigger? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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