SBL 0 Posted February 6, 2010 Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 Hi all! Since I have started posting here, I thought it would be a good idea to introduce myself. I got my 7.62, 20" Saiga a couple of years ago, on a recommendation from a friend. Probably (ok, definitely) the best firearms purchase I ever made, and my first non-.22 rifle! Being the mechanically inclined type, I started thinking of what all I could do to my rifle to make it better as soon as it came out of the box. I did some searching around, and found this forum... the collective wisdom here has helped me on many occasions, though you've never known it. So thanks to all! As for the rifle mods? I did the standard conversion, G2 single hook, removed the BHO, and changed the stock to a Choate skeleton stock. I also added a cheap bi-pod. Oh, one strange thing... My saiga is a flat-trunnion type. I got Dinzag's bullet guide, and upon further inspection... the hole for the BG was already in the trunnion, and in the right place. It was also the exact size needed for a #10-32 thread. 5 minutes later, done. Later on, I decided to re-crown the barrel, so I got the tool from Brownells and did that. I didn't like the options available for the rear sight, but I have a small-ish machine shop in my garage... So I came up with this. It's a little harder to get the dust cover off, but not much. This may need a minor redesign. Then I decided I would rather have a 16" barrel. The smart thing would probably have been to buy a new 16" rifle, but I decided to cut the barrel and re-crown it (contrary to some opinions here, this does not hurt the chrome lining, as the barrel is hard chromed). Great, that's done... but now I have no front sight. Hmm. I had seen jamesavery22's post about his flip-up sight mod, and that planted the seed. Out to the shop, er, garage... Some SolidWorks modeling ('cuz it's fun) and a little time later... I have also added an Ultimak gas tube and painted the front sight block, the finished product, the 7.62 Scout as I call it, is on page 35 of the pictures thread. No optics for the Ultimak yet, I'm still looking at options. Other stuff... I have a background in machining and mechanical engineering, about 7 years machining / a year or so in engineering, so I'm just starting out. Lots of stuff to learn, lots of stuff to make. I'll probably remain a lurker most of the time, but I'll keep learning from y'all, and hopefully contribute back a little as well. 7.62_Scout Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ae13291 3 Posted February 6, 2010 Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 good job on the machining it came out good. might not be a bad idea to make some stuff to in my garage with our mill hahaha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chevyman097 2,579 Posted February 6, 2010 Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 Regardless of other comments here, nice man! hey working on your gun is half the fun imo! got a full size pic of the whole gun? how do you do with it out on the range in action? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SBL 0 Posted February 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 Heh, sometimes I think I like working on things more than actually using them. Case in point, I have 3 milling machines, and 3 lathes... only 1 of each are in working condition. I actually haven't been able to get to a range since working on the rifle last, it's been awhile since I have even been shooting. I have an application in at Oil Capital here in the Tulsa area, but who knows when a membership will be available. Oh, one other thing. I also polished the bore with some Buehler 1 micron micropolishing powder. The bore is like a mirror now... I am looking forward to seeing whether that makes any difference in accuracy. As requested, pics of the final product: 7.62_Scout Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ae13291 3 Posted February 6, 2010 Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 what brush did you use to apply the polish? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chevyman097 2,579 Posted February 6, 2010 Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 Tulsa huh, oughta be plenty of places you can get out and shoot and trees or whatever around there. Im in the Texarkana(little south of there) area plenty of backwoods shootin, I dont worry much about the ranges that try and make me put in an application like its a job. Plenty of places in the country that welcome shooters...well plenty of places you wont be disturbed. Regardless, hey that a nice lookin rifle. grats. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SBL 0 Posted February 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 chevyman - thanks! I'm sure you're right about places to shoot. I hear ya on the range applications... I haven't been in the area long, though, so I'm not sure where all I could go. I was also looking for someplace convenient. At least one of the guys from work goes to OC, so I thought I would throw an application out there and see what happens. blackls1top - No brush. The Buehler polish, which is a metallurgical polish used prior to etching a sample for viewing under a microscope, is a fine, pure white flour of aluminum oxide. Warning - Do Not attempt this unless you are confident with your skills. Although the polish is very fine, it is also extremely abrasive and could probably ruin a barrel if used improperly. I used an ordinary cleaning patch, dampened with water and coated in the powder. I put the patch in a slotted jag and wrapped it around until it was a tight fit in the bore. Then I just ran the patch through the bore a bunch, changing out patches periodically. I bet I used 300 strokes or more. I VERY thoroughly cleaned the rifle afterwards. I have no idea where to get the polish, I'm looking for a source myself. My tiny supply was pilfered (with permission) from the metallurgy lab at the school I graduated from. 7.62_Scout Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ae13291 3 Posted February 6, 2010 Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 ^^^ thanks man, there is some other polishes i had in mind but im pretty sure im going to need a soft bore brush and a high speed drill, i know it will get in the rifling but i think i will be able to get it out with some hoppes. thanks for the tip tho Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chevyman097 2,579 Posted February 6, 2010 Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 chevyman - thanks! I'm sure you're right about places to shoot. I hear ya on the range applications... I haven't been in the area long, though, so I'm not sure where all I could go. I was also looking for someplace convenient. At least one of the guys from work goes to OC, so I thought I would throw an application out there and see what happens. I hope you get accustomed to the area and find a place to shoot! I would offer you to come shoot with me anytime on my land, but tulsa is a bit away and like me you prolly dont want to drive far. I have looked into many ranges in my area and it pisses me off everytime I see a range turn people down because you arent a member of the NRA or they require a committee or some shit to approve you as if its an election. Meh thats a whole other discussion! GL and I hope you find a place too shoot, we all shoot stand together! rock on! but regardless if you get out towards this area give me a shout, its mighty redneck but we can have some fun shooting at jugs and what not. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SBL 0 Posted February 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 (edited) Chevyman, I'd be glad to take you up on your offer! I'll keep that in mind if I'm ever out that way. I'm used to redneck anyways! BlackLS1Top, Hold on a second... don't use a drill! Just a friendly caution... Ya gotta be 100% sure of what you're doing before even thinking about doing this. What will happen if you use a drill or other rotating tool along with a soft pad, is that the lands in the barrel will be worn down, on one side only - basically it's just hitting the "high spots". Result = maybe a ruined barrel. If you run a patch straight up and down the bore, using arm power, the abrasive contacts the entire bore evenly. That way, the profile of the bore is not altered and the surface is just smoothed. A rotating motion should only be used in a smooth round bore (honing an engine block, for instance), and even then, you have to be careful not to bell-mouth the ends. 7.62_Scout Edited February 6, 2010 by 7.62_Scout Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ae13291 3 Posted February 6, 2010 Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 great man, thanks for the tip i really appreciate it. i had no idea. anyways the polish is a regular metal polish made by mothers nothing to abrasive. i just thought it would have been neat to do it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SBL 0 Posted February 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 Ahh, ok. Yeah, Mothers is good stuff from what I hear. Flitz is supposed to be another good one - in fact, I used a little bit of Flitz to "brighten" the barrel after polishing. 7.62_Scout Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kope007 14 Posted February 6, 2010 Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 I like the sight mods alot. Totally original. Nice work Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jamesavery22 54 Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Awesome work! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sailor 6 Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 762_Scout - I really like the rear peep mounting on your Saiga. I posed a question on a different discussion of using a Lyman tang mounted peep sight on a Saiga, to increase the sight radius and the "peep" advantage. The stock iron sight radius on my 16" Saiga is 14 3/4", while a tang mounted peep would be 24 3/4" - a sight radius advantage of 10". That is significant for iron sight (potential) accuracy. I believe (from catalogue pictures) that a Lyman #2 Marlin (short base) tang mounted peep would be simple to mount on the short Saiga tang. When extra funds show up, I'll see if I can make it work. Your machine work looks to be both functional and professional - nice work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reverendfranz 160 Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 (edited) Excellent design and work on the BUIS. Do you have any more pics of what was done to mount the rail on the tang? Edited February 23, 2010 by ReverendFranz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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