Spikester 93 Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 Anybody ever install Dinzag's trigger for the factory stock configuration? Is it a lot better than the factory trigger? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chevyman097 2,579 Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 Never heard of any one doing a trigger job without doing a full restoration... You're still going to have to drill or tap out the rivets so you might as well do the rest. It will take just a few more minutes. I know this doesnt answer the question you want, sorry. Just my 2cents. Honestly I dont even know if it would work without some extra modding. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mollysman420 19 Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 It makes a big difference!! After you install the trigger group (only counts as 2) add a US mag (3 parts)and you are 922r compliant unless the barrel is threaded then the attachment would have to be US made to make 6 parts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GregM1 241 Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 (edited) You're still going to have to drill or tap out the rivets so you might as well do the rest. It will take just a few more minutes. I do not believe that to be correct. Check the image. The rear part of the trigger with the pressed pins along with the sporter plate will not need to be removed. Just the front two axis pins. It will still use the linkage plate and original factory trigger. http://www.dinzagarms.com/misc_parts/fcg.html I would recommend a full conversion also. The FCG placement and feel are leaps and bounds better. It will be a decision you will never regret Edited April 7, 2010 by GregM1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
swells08 128 Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 The Dinzag trigger is awesome! Makes a huge difference in accuracy with less slop in the trigger pull. The full conversion will only take a little more time, but if you like the factory configuration be sure to be 922r compliant. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chevyman097 2,579 Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 (edited) You're still going to have to drill or tap out the rivets so you might as well do the rest. It will take just a few more minutes. I do not believe that to be correct. Check the image. The rear part of the trigger with the pressed pins along with the sporter plate will not need to be removed. Just the front two axis pins. It will still use the linkage plate and original factory trigger. http://www.dinzagarm..._parts/fcg.html I would recommend a full conversion also. The FCG placement and feel are leaps and bounds better. It will be a decision you will never regret ah You are totally right. Its too early in the morning, dont know what I was thinking. sorry for the confusion. This was before my morning caffeine boost lol Edited April 7, 2010 by Chevyman097 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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