Another reliability mod idea (NOT for everybody)

[Paulyski 2,227]

I would just polish the extractor and the inner breech area.

 

Yes, polish the inner breech area. This will greatly help with feeding and extraction. A VERY smooth inner area where the shell makes contact will go a long way. Especially when it comes to extraction.

As the shell wall (even though its plastic) expands it tries to grab onto the walls of the chamber.

 

Take a wooden dowel and wrap a sock around one end and secure it with a rubber band. Your sock and sandpaper should be the same length as a 3" magnum shell. Now take some 2,000 grit automotive sand paper and wrap it around the sock. Attach it also with a rubber band. Chuck it into a drill and start SLOWLY and then increase the speed. Remember to put the dowel in the barrel first and then add your sock/sander. Yes, it will be a little cramped in their but it will work..........just take your time. I have done this to 1911's, shotguns, Several revolvers (cylinder). And it helps every time. Try it wont hurt it.

 

Some resistance is a good thing in the final lock up. Its making sure that it (the bolt) is firmly in place and the shell is locked into battery.

 

 

 

Best

Frosty

Interesting..

I'll have to look into that.

[Gunfixr 76]

Usually, when I get done, it'll close up on its own, w/o the hammer pushing on it, if the muzzle is pointed mostly downward.

If it doesn't, but will close on it's own with the bolt released from about 1 inch back, I'm still happy.

I do not weaken any springs.

 

To me, all firearms are potentially battle implements, and may be needed for personal defense. Therefore, the most reliability with the widest range of ammunition, specifically the more powerful loads, is of first importance. So, with that in mind, I don't build "competition only" guns unless specifically requested.

I can usually get "competition only" guns to run equally as well with the hot stuff as with the weak stuff.

Edited October 3, 2010 by Gunfixr

[Nailbomb 10,221]

Do you get the 3" shells cheaper or do you just not mind spending that much per range session?

The earlier price just wasn't sitting right with me...

 

I shopped around a little for you guys, and I found a solid deal on some of my favorite big bang bulk ammo.

 

http://www.ableammo.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=73265

 

at $10 for 25 rounds thats $0.40 a round befor shipping.

 

I'm sure you can agree that that makes for a great price for breaking in your S-12, or just to enjoy some full flavor rounds.

 

My digital S-12 has never seen a low brass round in my hands.

[Gibbles 23]

I put about 1k+ through my S12 with out any cleaning, and most of it was walmart fed bulk pack.

 

It ran flawless through the whole thing, and it would sit for a week or two between about 4 different trips.

 

When I finally decided to clean it the puck was stuck, I had to use a wooden dowel to even get it to move, and it still ran great like that too.

 

After I pounded it out I had a nice turd that I was able to free.

 

My gas plug was also stuck in there pretty damn good too, now I run it with copper anti-seize on the threads and it works like a charm (the stuff they use on new glocks), I have not had an issue after I started doing that.

 

I love that anti-seize so much I even started playing around with it on my AR's to lube the bolt and to lube the frame/slide on pistols.

[Gibbles 23]

And I always try and smooth up what ever I can on every gun I own.

 

On my S12 I have used 600/1000grit paper + a dremel felt wheel w/compound on anything I could

 

Hammer, trigger hooks (and I run double hook for another reason...), detail stripped the bolt and rounded and cleaned off what I could including some rough machine marks in the two rotating halves, extractor is cleaned up where I thought it would help, I did what I could with the locking lugs... mostly I just cleaned up corners and wear marks.

 

I took my dremel with felt wheel and compound into the chamber and worked it until I was happy.

 

The gun cycles very clean, but the lockup is still a bit... catchy... but it runs flawless with everything but winchester univ, but I decided the hulls just flatten to easy.

Edited October 3, 2010 by Gibbles

[Paulyski 2,227]

Interesting idea. I have not have going into full battery issue but it seems like it would help for those who do. Taged.

It only happened once like that, but I figure once is too much to be called perfect.

It was likely a mag hiccup that robbed too much power to fully seat, but I was brainstorming on how to make it eat shit like that anyhow.

 

Same idea when people weld extra steel on the upper area of the rear of the breech.

They don't realize that they're compensating for a mag issue, but hey... If it works, it's like another safety net... But fix the fuckin' mag anyhow.

 

As Murphy said; "Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong"...

 

I've had a shitty recurring dream that when I needed my sidearm the most, I waited till the last minuet to give the other guy every chance, then all I heard was a click...

Then I wake up.

Shitty dream.

Edited October 4, 2010 by Paulyski

[evlblkwpnz 3,418]

...Anyone with a really reliable gun try anything like this in their pursuit of perfection yet?...

 

No.

 

I don't particularly like the thought of weakening any springs that affect how the gun cycles. If it ain't broke, don't "fix" it.

 

ymmv.

Too bad.

 

Mike already weakened / "tuned" your extractor spring on your gun.

I was thinking the same thing.... minus the ' '....