Mak 3 Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 I used semi-gloss ceramic engine paint and then baked in oven to cure for the area under the trigger plate, worked fine. If I blast a part I have then used K-Phos and Brownell's baking lacquer with good, solvent resistant results. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dsmtsi23 18 Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 I had my local gunsmith ceraktote my rifle and micro slick the internals. Cerakote is a ceramic that is baked on to the metal. Much more durable than just about any other finish including duracoat. I got the gun refinshed in tungsten grey and armors black which ran me about $140. That included bead blasting the whole gun to remove all the old finsh and then spraying and baking the rifle to cure the cerakote. The micro slick was another $60 but well worth it. Actions smooth like glass and the finish is self lubricating Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alex e 5 Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 (edited) Cerakote is on there once baked, Alumahyde 2 is similar but requres less heat to fully cure....Duracoat takes much longer to cure and requires bead blasting. For AKs the Cerakote is applied over parkerizing the AK first. I have a Benelli M2 at the Cerakote application station now..... Edited February 17, 2011 by alex e Quote Link to post Share on other sites
essohbe 47 Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 ^ Yea, I used AllumihydeII on my WASR and it cured pretty nice. You're supposed to use a hair dryer or something to cure it in between coats of paint for like 30 sec. I used gloss black because it hardens thicker for some reason than matte and then I waited for it to cure completely and went over it again with a clear matte AlumihydeII and it looks sweet. It's pretty durable but it scrapes off under the slector switch and on the edge of the receiver under the dust cover a bit, oh well. What doesn't? lol. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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