Linear 1 Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 So I was discussing the how's and what to's of converting my saiga with my brother in law, and casually mentioned that I wanted to be really carefull removing the rivets so I wouldn't have to ReBlue the reciever. He kinda chuckeled and pointed out that I would basically just need a can of black spraypaint. Now, I've seen the "over the top" pics of a Saiga shorty that looks like it had every nook and cranny Nickle plated and while I don't really want to go that far I am interested in taking the time to do a better job with my saiga that just slapping some touch up paint on the scratches. It seems like Alluminium Anodizing is the most common treatment for firearms these days (at least the firearms I own) but It dosent seem like the kind of thing I want to try to do myself (If you don't know anodizing is a way of adding a layer of "tough" corrosion to aluminium by way of a harsh acidbath and the apporpriate amount of electrical current) I live in a fairly large city so I'm sure If I wanted to I could break everything down, polish the paint off, and take it to a place to have it done professionally, but I don't really know jack-schmack about it so I'de like to hear other peoples' opinions about refinisheing both the reciever and the internals. I dont know if it matters but I do have access to a kiln big enough to fit anything other than the barrell. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 So, you're going to re-finish the whole gun? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
csmw 98 Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 It seems like Alluminium Anodizing is the most common treatment for firearms these days (at least the firearms I own) S-12 isn't aluminum. Annodizing wont work. When your gun is converted, just give the whole thing a once-over w/ some good quality shake/bake and throw it in your wife's oven (when she ain't home). Best way to do it is to glass bead the whole gun, parkerize it, then go over it with gunkote or an equivalent. Depends on your finances and resources though. But the cheap way out is to just spray and bake it...should come out fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sakone007 2 Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 It seems like Alluminium Anodizing is the most common treatment for firearms these days (at least the firearms I own) S-12 isn't aluminum. Annodizing wont work. When your gun is converted, just give the whole thing a once-over w/ some good quality shake/bake and throw it in your wife's oven (when she ain't home). Best way to do it is to glass bead the whole gun, parkerize it, then go over it with gunkote or an equivalent. Depends on your finances and resources though. But the cheap way out is to just spray and bake it...should come out fine. Once blasted is it necessary to parkerize it or can I just hit it with duracoat ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
csmw 98 Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 Once blasted is it necessary to parkerize it or can I just hit it with duracoat ? Once blasted it needs to be parkerized pretty much immediatly, or painted. If you are going to the trouble of blasting it, take the extra step to parkerize it before you paint. Then it will have been done 100% the best most durable way. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sakone007 2 Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 Once blasted is it necessary to parkerize it or can I just hit it with duracoat ? Once blasted it needs to be parkerized pretty much immediatly, or painted. If you are going to the trouble of blasting it, take the extra step to parkerize it before you paint. Then it will have been done 100% the best most durable way. What would be the easiest way to parkerize having never done it & what kinda of tool supplies ect would be needed. I also plan on refinishing several handguns bolts & ar's Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Linear 1 Posted February 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 So, you're going to re-finish the whole gun? Not sure. Depends on how much I'll be able to learn to do myself -VS- am I just throwing good money to bad? Parkerizing...time to hit Wikipedia and see how thats done. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Linear 1 Posted February 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 (edited) Once blasted is it necessary to parkerize it or can I just hit it with duracoat ? Once blasted it needs to be parkerized pretty much immediatly, or painted. If you are going to the trouble of blasting it, take the extra step to parkerize it before you paint. Then it will have been done 100% the best most durable way. So (because I can't resist going waaaaay over the top on this one) Would it be better to Cryo-treat it ----> Glass Blast it -----> Parkerize it ----> then duracoat it? Or would the Cryo-treatment also improve the Parkerize\Duracoat's durability and provide a better benifit at the end of the finishing process? I actually looked up cryo-treating for the S & G's of it (after I looked up parkerizing).... it isent as absurdly expensive as I thought it would be. Edited February 10, 2011 by Linear Quote Link to post Share on other sites
6500rpm 670 Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 Cryo is probably way over the top for a shotgun, really for this one. If you're going to stick with basic colors-degrease, media blast with 70gr aluminum oxide, clean and degrease again and finish with MolyResin. I don't think that even Tromix parks before using this stuff (but I'm not 100% on that, but they use the product). Really good and easy to use stuff and cures in the oven at 300 deg in about an hour. If you want colors you can go with Duracoat and Anodize any after-market aluminum parts you hang on it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gunfanatic 221 Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 Once blasted is it necessary to parkerize it or can I just hit it with duracoat ? Once blasted it needs to be parkerized pretty much immediatly, or painted. If you are going to the trouble of blasting it, take the extra step to parkerize it before you paint. Then it will have been done 100% the best most durable way. What would be the easiest way to parkerize having never done it & what kinda of tool supplies ect would be needed. I also plan on refinishing several handguns bolts & ar's Basic run through on how to parkerize. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuB2uAcuYzA Quote Link to post Share on other sites
skiboatsp 111 Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 So I was discussing the how's and what to's of converting my saiga with my brother in law, and casually mentioned that I wanted to be really carefull removing the rivets so I wouldn't have to ReBlue the reciever. He kinda chuckeled and pointed out that I would basically just need a can of black spraypaint. Now, I've seen the "over the top" pics of a Saiga shorty that looks like it had every nook and cranny Nickle plated and while I don't really want to go that far I am interested in taking the time to do a better job with my saiga that just slapping some touch up paint on the scratches. It seems like Alluminium Anodizing is the most common treatment for firearms these days (at least the firearms I own) but It dosent seem like the kind of thing I want to try to do myself (If you don't know anodizing is a way of adding a layer of "tough" corrosion to aluminium by way of a harsh acidbath and the apporpriate amount of electrical current) I live in a fairly large city so I'm sure If I wanted to I could break everything down, polish the paint off, and take it to a place to have it done professionally, but I don't really know jack-schmack about it so I'de like to hear other peoples' opinions about refinisheing both the reciever and the internals. I dont know if it matters but I do have access to a kiln big enough to fit anything other than the barrell. Acually it's a very mild sulfuric solution Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Linear 1 Posted February 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 (edited) Acually it's a very mild sulfuric solution Hehe, only used "harsh" as a way of saying "Somthing you don't want to spill on yourself" At least Parkerizing is easier in that you dont need to bother with the electricity, just mix up the hellbroth and wait for everything to stop bubbling. As far as the Cryo goes, yea its way over the top, but when the costs of doing it are less\at either A) getting a parkerizing kit, renting a glass blaster, DIYing it (around 50$ say)...or B] Paying a local Pro to blast and Park it (probably closer to $100)...It does make me wonder. I mean, Bennalli Cryo's thier high-end shotgun's barrells to prevent the warping that always happens with the heating and cooling of barrells...what occurs to me is that the Benalli's that are cryo-treated probably don't have 20 12-ga 00 screaming through as fast as the trigger can be pulled. The 1st site I found who Dura\Ceramacoats firearms professionally ( I admit I havn't looked really hard) is around $250-375 for single color- digital camo... for that price why not do a combo of Parkerize then Cryo and eventually get that funky patina on all the non-alluminum. Not saying I'm going to do it, just food for thought. Edited February 9, 2011 by Linear Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sakone007 2 Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 I'm wondering if i can use a rain gutter or some other type cheap trough styled parkerizing container to use . Or rape my bank & send it to Robar and have it np3'd . So it looks like it's getting blasted , cleaned , parkerized , cleaned , & finally multicam duracoated . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Linear 1 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 (edited) Cryo is probably way over the top for a shotgun, really for this one. If you're going to stick with basic colors-degrease, media blast with 70gr aluminum oxide, clean and degrease again and finish with MolyResin. I don't think that even Tromix parks before using this stuff (but I'm not 100% on that, but they use the product). Really good and easy to use stuff and cures in the oven at 300 deg in about an hour. If you want colors you can go with Duracoat and Anodize any after-market aluminum parts you hang on it. TY...this suggestion is actually the closest that what I was thinking of doing. No...me no want any colors...me boring...me want flat black. Duracoat seems like a really nice finish as far as toughness, but it also seems geared to people who want spacific colors and are willing to pay for it. Yea I could have a sick looking Digi-Camo finish for 370$ or I could buy the Park kit, buy a blaster, make a blast box, buy the Moly resin kit, set it in my Kiln, and spend about the same $$. I like what I have read about Moly-resin coating, although I'm tempted to go ahead and parkerize, not only for the extra protection but for the experiance gained from doing the process myself. I'm a bit unsure about parkerizing the barrell...I'm guessing that the inside of the barrell shouldn't be parkerized, so the options are plugging it someway or skipping parkerizing the barrell; or maybe I'm wrong and there's no reason not to chuck the whole thing into the vat!~ Edited February 10, 2011 by Linear Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Linear 1 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 So, to sum up exterior refinishing: for the lowest cost use paint; parkerizing is the chemical option for more permanent finish as well as a good prep (though perhaps not required) for spray on finishes like Moly-Resin. For additional options there is GunKote, Teflon finishes and Duracoat\Ceramicoat. Well, how about the interior? If you read the bolt polishing sticky you'll see the red rouge jewellers compound mentioned. Personally I like the look of Pauly's IceRack treatment, makes me wonder if that's the result of a lot of Rouge Compund and a lot of polishing? What kind of finishing do you all use on the internal's? GunKote and the Teflon-treatments seem like obvious options....How much of the internals can be refinished? how much should be left alone? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheDriver 23 Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 I'm itching to refinish my converted Saigas (12 and x39) but I really think I'll wait until it warms up. I'm leaning towards Cerakote or the Brownells alumahyde II. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.