Hammer not resetting

[Las_Vegas_HK 0]

I have a question for the Saiga techs out there.

 

I own a Siaga 12 conversion and have the following upgrades:

 

- MD Puck and the older version of the V Plug, not sure what they call it but it has the -1, +1, 2 and 3.

- Carrier/bolt, rails and hammer are polished.

- Ace Folder stock

- Chaos tri rail(lower portion installed only) and broom stick handle

- Chaos Shark Brake

- Billet trigger guard and AR Hougue grip

- Tapco trigger conversion from CSS with mods

 

The hammer doesn't reset after a maximum of two rounds.

It shoots once, shell ejects, new round loads, shoots a second time, loads round and nothing.

If I cycle the chamber an unused round ejects and a new round loads and repeats as above.

 

So the shell is loading but it doesn't always cock the hammer and only while shooting.

 

Thoughts and thanks for the help?

[MLM0358 107]

The first time you chamber a round you are manually cycing the bolt carrier far enough back to reset the trigger. It goes bang when you pull the trigger. Then most likely the bolt carrier probably not going back far enough to reset the trigger on subsequent cycles of the gun. You may have already checked this, but first palce to look is what is the gas setting on your gas plug. Screw it all the way in, then back it out to setting 3 and see what happens.

[yooper14.5 84]

have you modified any of the fcg? it sounds like your disconnecter isnt catching, making me think the axis pin holes are to far apart or the disconnecter has been modified or broke in some way to make it not grab as much of the hammer.

[YOT 3,743]

Did you install the hammer upside-down? That's actually a common occurrence with hammer issues.

[Peckaldee 12]

Check the spring legs on the BHO side to see if it's sliding off toward the center of the reciever. I was having this problem after the conversion. All it takes is a slight bend toward the outside to alleviate.

[Paulyski 2,227]

Have you, or has anybody else reprofiled the hammer or modified the underside of the carrier trying to emulate Glassbolt?

If done incorrectly that can cause issues, so try a new hammer.

 

Otherwise I'd suspect the disconnecter or disconnecter spring.

With GlassBolt I tune the extractor which includes using a different extractor spring.

Recently someone tried to use their old extractor spring as a disconnecter spring... That'll do it too.

Now I separate the old extractor spring & label it so nobody does that again;

 

 

 

 

Check this thread to see if you have a bum-disconnector;

http://forum.saiga-1...trigger-recall/

 

 

 

The above will cause the hammer to completely fail to reset.

 

Now if it's 1/2 resetting, do as the above poster suggests;

 

 

Check the spring legs on the BHO side to see if it's sliding off toward the center of the reciever. I was having this problem after the conversion. All it takes is a slight bend toward the outside to alleviate.

 

The reason it drifts in is because the BHO is pressing against it. That doesn't happen on AKs becaust they have no BHO. (I like the sound of that... No B.H.O. )

 

When the spring goes inward it loses leverage on the trigger bars & cannot push them down hard enough to get the hammer out of the disconnector & into the sear, so the shooter would have to manually push the trigger forward to fully reset it before pulling the trigger again.

 

The outward bend on the BHO side spring leg will both prevent the spring from drifting inward & it will also hold the BHO against the receiver so it cannot get sucked in & stuck in there.

I also put rotational bends in the spring legs so the parts that rest on the trigger bars want to go outward because that's the path of least resistance.

 

It's supposed to act like this if installed correctly;

 

 

 

 

Peckaldee.... Did you not send me your mainspring when I did Glassbolt, or did that happen to you before I did the mods?

 

 

ETA;

A drop of oil on the trigger's axis never hurts either.

 

Also, one thing that's tricky that I came across recently was a sleeve in Tapco FCG was slightly oversized & was causing the disconnector to bind up.

I like the Tapco FCG, but never liked the split sleeve because of the possibility of a bur causing issues.

 

That's why starting about a month ago I began replacing the Tapco's split steel sleeve with my custom brass bearing.

My sleeve is a brass bearing turned down to the exact same dimensions as a correct Tapco sleeve.

Performance-wise it makes GlassBolt's modified Tapco FCG the smoothest AK trigger available on the market presently as far as I'm aware.

 

(If any previous GlassBolt customers want the new brass sleeve, just send a self addressed stamped envelope & i'll get one out to you at no charge)

[Peckaldee 12]

Pauly, it was a problem before you received my parts(the spring was included). The bending of the spring corrected it. The polishing of the legs also helps. The pushing forward on the trigger would solve the problem. I was experiencing the exact problem the OP is having.

[Las_Vegas_HK 0]

The first time you chamber a round you are manually cycing the bolt carrier far enough back to reset the trigger. It goes bang when you pull the trigger. Then most likely the bolt carrier probably not going back far enough to reset the trigger on subsequent cycles of the gun. You may have already checked this, but first palce to look is what is the gas setting on your gas plug. Screw it all the way in, then back it out to setting 3 and see what happens.

 

I have used cheap low brass ammo and also better high brass and the problem seem to be with resetting the hammer no matter what ammo I use. Adjusting the gas allows the shells to properly eject and load. My problems have not been ejecting spent rounds or loading new rounds, it seems to be limited to resetting the hammer.

As a side note, I would think if the bolt travels rearward far enough to eject and load it would also be travelling back far enough to reset the hammer?

 

I took a few pictures of my gun. As far as reworking the bolt, it has not been sanded/shaved down very much at all, just a few round edges eased.

 

The FCG is the Tapco G2 trigger that Tromix modifies and sells through CSS. The only thing I have done to this is polish the face of the hammer.

 

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[Las_Vegas_HK 0]

Check the spring legs on the BHO side to see if it's sliding off toward the center of the reciever. I was having this problem after the conversion. All it takes is a slight bend toward the outside to alleviate.

I think I understand your comment. When I pull the trigger on my gun, the main spring leg shifts inward about an 1/8" towards the center of the receiver. When I lift off the trigger it shifts back towards the BHO device lever.

 

Below are resting trigger postion and pulled trigger position:

 

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Is the idea, to bend the main spring so that when the trigger is resting and when it is pulled it looks the same on the leg it rest on?

[Paulyski 2,227]

Yes.

Just put a slight outward bend in the spring-leg right after the coil

[Las_Vegas_HK 0]

Yes.

Just put a slight outward bend in the spring-leg right after the coil

 

Just to make one thing clear, the main spring on the BHO device side should NEVER ride up the sear when the triger is pulled?

 

One thing worth noting, I never heard about this problem before this week. I am amazed that more people don't have a similar problem, unless of course everyone else knows to bend their main spring outward on the BHO device side.

[Paulyski 2,227]

No. it shouldn't ride up the disconnecter, but moreover the end of the springs need to rest on the trigger bars so the mainspring has proper leverage to operate the FCG.

 

And, yes. This issue is extremely common post-conversion.

This is half the reason I include the Trigger-Job with GlassBolt Reliability system & the whole reason I request the client send the mainspring.

 

Here's an illustration of how it'll act with a properly adjusted mainspring;