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SpetsnazGRU

Vepr Super Issues and Fixes Thread

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After having owned a Vepr Super for two weeks, I think that it is a great weapon, but just like everything else in life, it is not perfect and I have ran into some problems and issues with it. I was even able to come up with an "ingenious", easy DIY solution to a major problem. I wanted to create this thread, for us Super owners to discuss some of these issues and possible solutions. I have already solved one major issue, but have questions when it comes to some relatively minor ones. Please, post your own issues and concerns.

 

 

 

 

ISSUE #1 (SLINGING IT): When I was picking this weapon up at my FFL's, the dealer was very impressed by it, but told me to go ahead and get some decent sling swivels. I took a look and quickly agreed with him. The swivels on this thing are the basic Russian stuff, the same that you would find on sporter Saigas. The only slings that fit it are the SKS and Mosin ones, and maybe some basic, thin, nylon stuff. This is what the swivels look like (with a cheap Chinese SKS sling):

 

 

 

7005402616_7d550c20a1_b.jpg

 

 

 

 

Attempted solution: I went to my favorite sports outfitter store (bringing the rifle in and causing a great deal of interest from the staff and other customers), picked up a gorgeous brown leather sling, which color-matched the stock and asked them to hook me up with the best pair of swivels they had. They grabbed a nice, expensive set of swivels and took me back to their "gunsmith room" to see if they would work. The guy unscrewed the original swivel screws and removed the Russian swivels. It quickly became apparent that this is not going to be a quick remove and replace job. The Russian screws and the tapped holes in the wood are A LOT thinner than any of the American screws that come with decent swivels. The guy said: "I can't do it for you here, because we can get sued if I damage something, but why don't you just try for force these thick swivel screws in there." These things looked like this:

 

 

 

417-5CfphvL.jpg

 

 

 

I thought about it and then decided that, before I do something like that, making permanent alterations and risk cracking the beautiful, irreplaceable stock, I shall research my options. So, no nice leather sling for me, at least for now. I put a Chinese SKS sling on the stock swivels. It really does cheapen the look of such a nice rifle though.

 

 

 

Question: What is the best, safest way to go about putting some quality, US-style sling swivels on these things? Are these swivel screws all about the same thickness, or do they have thinner ones? I would appreciate any input on this.

 

 

 

 

 

ISSUE #2 (THE SCOPE IS TOO DAMN HIGH!): I have the (original) top mount version of the weapon and went with a weaver version of a POSP Zoom scope. This is what it looks like:

 

 

 

 

7005400554_d06b7dae07_b.jpg

 

 

 

 

Even though the weaver mount sits very low, the base of the scope is rather tall, preventing any kind of cheek weld (chin weld is good though smile.png ). I could've gone with a basic tube scope and some low rings, but I am just so damn used to the POSPs with their SVD style reticles! Any way, considering how high the rail sits on the side rail versions of the weapon, this should be even more of a problem for all you guys with those Supers. Of course, proper cheek weld has never been been a big concern for the Russians and their weapon design reflects that. It is not a HUGE deals to me, but I would like to at least try to remedy the problem.

 

 

 

 

Attempted Solution: I went ahead and ordered a "BlackHaw Adjustable HawkTex Tactical Cheek Pad". Should receive it later this week. I will let you guys know how it works out.

 

 

 

Question: Can anyone think of a better solution?

 

 

 

 

 

ISSUE #3 (TOP MOUNT DESIGN): This one obviously only applies to the top mount version of Vepr Super.Here's the deal: In a typical Russian fashion, the mount in designed for quick mounting and release, and to maintain zero after you remove and put it back on. That last part is essential, because there is NO WAY to field-strip the weapon with that mount on it. Mounting is easy enough: you raise the locking lever to its highest position, slide the mount on the receiver and rear sight block rails, and lower the locking lever until its sits snugly next to your barrel and touches the stock. It's all very easy and great, UNLESS you have a fairly large scope. In such a case, the scope objective housing prevents you from raising the locking lever all the way up. Trying to force and bend the lever around the scope doesn't work and does this (note the nasty scratch on the scope):

 

 

 

7151489309_730bbd1e66_b.jpg

 

 

 

 

You can still secure the mount in place, but you have to fuck with the hand screw, carefully manipulate the locking mechanism in place, etc. Removing the mount is just as cumbersome and you WILL LOSE YOUR ZERO taking off an putting the mount back on this way.

 

 

 

My brilliant, ingenious, elegant solution (sarcasm): Notice here, how the mount's locking lever is bent inward (to ensure that when you lock it, it sits out of the way, snuggly next to the barrel):

 

 

 

 

7151485347_333b99d9b6_b.jpg

 

 

 

This inward bend is what causes it to catch on big scope objective housing. So, I took the locking lever off the mount, put it on a hard table and smacked the shit out of it with a mallet, until it was no longer bent. smile.png The damage to the finish was very minimal and now the lever (mostly) clears my scope objective when in the upward position, allowing for quick attach, release and keeping zero. However, this DIY mod has created another issue: When the lever is in the down (locked) position, it really sticks out away from the weapon, a few mm longer than the charging handle. It looks like this:

 

 

 

 

7151489309_730bbd1e66_b.jpg

 

 

 

This is obviously not ideal, since the locking lever can poke you, catch on things, etc.

 

 

 

My planned solution: I am going to take off the locking lever once again and use a dremel with a cut-off wheel to chop off that bent tip, as it seems to be completely unnecessary and removing it will make the locking lever stick out by 1/2" less. I hate doing shit like this to a $170 piece of gear, but it seems like the obvious answer.

 

 

 

 

Question: What do you guys think about my solution to the problem of the mount locking lever not clearing the scope objective housing and what I am planning to do about it sticking out too much right now? Does anyone have more elegant solutions? Thoughts? Suggestions? Critique?

 

 

 

 

 

ISSUE #4 (I WANT A CRAPPY PLASTIC STOCK FOR THIS THING): The wood on these weapons is really nice and pretty. I would like to keep it this way on mine, but still be able to take the weapon deer/elk hunting in the mountains.

 

 

Solution: Let's keep nagging Tapco, ATI... whoever, about making plastic replacement stocks for these weapons, like they do for SKS', Mosins, etc.

 

 

Question: Am I the only one who wants this?

 

 

 

ISSUE #5 (PARTS and ACCESSORIES AVAILABILITY)

 

Solution: Let's keep nagging WPA, K-Var, etc about importing spare parts and asking some of our forum sponsors (who specialize in manufacturing Saiga accessories) to start making some cool stuff for these lovely rifles.

 

Question: What kind US made accessories would you like to see for Vepr Supers?

 

 

Any way, thanks for reading this rather long post, guys.

Edited by SpetsnazGRU
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After having owned a Vepr Super for two weeks, I think that it is a great weapon, but just like everything else in life, it is not perfect and I have ran into some problems and issues with it. I was even able to come up with an "ingenious", easy DIY solution to a major problem. I wanted to create this thread, for us Super owners to discuss some of these issues and possible solutions. I have already solved one major issue, but have questions when it comes to some relatively minor ones. Please, post your own issues and concerns.

 

 

ISSUE #1 (SLINGING IT): When I was picking this weapon up at my FFL's, the dealer was very impressed by it, but told me to go ahead and get some decent sling swivels. I took a look and quickly agreed with him. The swivels on this thing are the basic Russian stuff, the same that you would find on sporter Saigas. The only slings that fit it are the SKS and Mosin ones, and maybe some basic, thin, nylon stuff. This is what the swivels look like (with a cheap Chinese SKS sling):

 

Attempted solution: I went to my favorite sports outfitter store (bringing the rifle in and causing a great deal of interest from the staff and other customers), picked up a gorgeous brown leather sling, which color-matched the stock and asked them to hook me up with the best pair of swivels they had. They grabbed a nice, expensive set of swivels and took me back to their "gunsmith room" to see if they would work. The guy unscrewed the original swivel screws and removed the Russian swivels. It quickly became apparent that this is not going to be a quick remove and replace job. The Russian screws and the tapped holes in the wood are A LOT thinner than any of the American screws that come with decent swivels. The guy said: "I can't do it for you here, because we can get sued if I damage something, but why don't you just try for force these thick swivel screws in there." These things looked like this:

 

I thought about it and then decided that, before I do something like that, making permanent alterations and risk cracking the beautiful, irreplaceable stock, I shall research my options. So, no nice leather sling for me, at least for now. I put a Chinese SKS sling on the stock swivels. It really does cheapen the look of such a nice rifle though.

 

Question: What is the best, safest way to go about putting some quality, US-style sling swivels on these things? Are these swivel screws all about the same thickness, or do they have thinner ones? I would appreciate any input on this.

without any sort of measurements my only suggestion is to drill and re-tap the threads to accommodate the larger lug

 

 

ISSUE #2 (THE SCOPE IS TOO DAMN HIGH!): I have the (original) top mount version of the weapon and went with a weaver version of a POSP Zoom scope. This is what it looks like:

 

Even though the weaver mount sits very low, the base of the scope is rather tall, preventing any kind of cheek weld (chin weld is good though smile.png ). I could've gone with a basic tube scope and some low rings, but I am just so damn used to the POSPs with their SVD style reticles! Any way, considering how high the rail sits on the side rail versions of the weapon, this should be even more of a problem for all you guys with those Supers. Of course, proper cheek weld has never been been a big concern for the Russians and their weapon design reflects that. It is not a HUGE deals to me, but I would like to at least try to remedy the problem.

 

Attempted Solution: I went ahead and ordered a "BlackHaw Adjustable HawkTex Tactical Cheek Pad". Should receive it later this week. I will let you guys know how it works out.

 

Question: Can anyone think of a better solution?

 

 

ring mount would have been my suggestion.

I was considering an integrated cheek pad design I have seen from one of the vendors @ sniper central, its got a turn wheel to raise and lower the cheek pad, and its also a major part of the stock so it gives a much cleaner look.

 

 

 

 

ISSUE #3 (TOP MOUNT DESIGN): This one obviously only applies to the top mount version of Vepr Super.Here's the deal: In a typical Russian fashion, the mount in designed for quick mounting and release, and to maintain zero after you remove and put it back on. That last part is essential, because there is NO WAY to field-strip the weapon with that mount on it. Mounting is easy enough: you raise the locking lever to its highest position, slide the mount on the receiver and rear sight block rails, and lower the locking lever until its sits snugly next to your barrel and touches the stock. It's all very easy and great, UNLESS you have a fairly large scope. In such a case, the scope objective housing prevents you from raising the locking lever all the way up. Trying to force and bend the lever around the scope doesn't work and does this (note the nasty scratch on the scope):

 

You can still secure the mount in place, but you have to fuck with the hand screw, carefully manipulate the locking mechanism in place, etc. Removing the mount is just as cumbersome and you WILL LOSE YOUR ZERO taking off an putting the mount back on this way.

 

My brilliant, ingenious, elegant solution (sarcasm): Notice here, how the mount's locking lever is bent inward (to ensure that when you lock it, it sits out of the way, snuggly next to the barrel):

 

This inward bend is what causes it to catch on big scope objective housing. So, I took the locking lever off the mount, put it on a hard table and smacked the shit out of it with a mallet, until it was no longer bent. smile.png The damage to the finish was very minimal and now the lever (mostly) clears my scope objective when in the upward position, allowing for quick attach, release and keeping zero. However, this DIY mod has created another issue: When the lever is in the down (locked) position, it really sticks out away from the weapon, a few mm longer than the charging handle. It looks like this:

 

 

This is obviously not ideal, since the locking lever can poke you, catch on things, etc.

 

 

My planned solution: I am going to take off the locking lever once again and use a dremel with a cut-off wheel to chop off that bent tip, as it seems to be completely unnecessary and removing it will make the locking lever stick out by 1/2" less. I hate doing shit like this to a $170 piece of gear, but it seems like the obvious answer.

 

 

Question: What do you guys think about my solution to the problem of the mount locking lever not clearing the scope objective housing and what I am planning to do about it sticking out too much right now? Does anyone have more elegant solutions? Thoughts? Suggestions? Critique?

 

 

looking at the lever could it not have been possible to remove it and flip the lever around so that the curve is facing outward instead? and then perhaps a rubber/vinyl dip coat on the lever as an added protection. it doesnt look like its one piece, looks like the outer nut could be removed so you can flip it around.

 

 

 

 

ISSUE #4 (I WANT A CRAPPY PLASTIC STOCK FOR THIS THING): The wood on these weapons is really nice and pretty. I would like to keep it this way on mine, but still be able to take the weapon deer/elk hunting in the mountains.

 

 

Solution: Let's keep nagging Tapco, ATI... whoever, about making plastic replacement stocks for these weapons, like they do for SKS', Mosins, etc.

 

 

Question: Am I the only one who wants this?

 

 

 

part of me would like to see a carbon polymer SVD style stock commercially produced. I do like the idea of a lighter polymer stock I know this rifle is a beast when it comes to weight. my only concern is how balanced it would be as a result. I also wonder how accuracy is affected if it was in a bullpup configuration, although I have heard reports from the Brits about bullpups attributing to hearing loss

 

 

ISSUE #5 (PARTS and ACCESSORIES AVAILABILITY)

 

Solution: Let's keep nagging WPA, K-Var, etc about importing spare parts and asking some of our forum sponsors (who specialize in manufacturing Saiga accessories) to start making some cool stuff for these lovely rifles.

 

Question: What kind US made accessories would you like to see for Vepr Supers?

 

 

Any way, thanks for reading this rather long post, guys.

 

stocks

definitely more options for mags

maybe alternatives for the trigger, I have heard mixed opinions on the supers.

I'm sure i will add to this after I get mine.

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without any sort of measurements my only suggestion is to drill and re-tap the threads to accommodate the larger lug

 

Unfortunately, I've never tapped or re-tapped anything in my life (well, I have tapped some... you know what :) ). I've used self-tapping screws on plastic stocks though. So, would I need to precisely measure a swivel lug of my choice, then drill a hole like one size smaller and then use the right size "tap"? What are all the measurements that I would need?

 

 

ring mount would have been my suggestion.

I was considering an integrated cheek pad design I have seen from one of the vendors @ sniper central, its got a turn wheel to raise and lower the cheek pad, and its also a major part of the stock so it gives a much cleaner look.

 

I wanted a high powered zoom scope, with an illuminated PSO style reticle. Kalinka does sell a ring mounted scope like this, but it has a huge 52 mm objective, which would only clear the rear sight base if I used some high, "see-through" rings, which would make it sit just as high or even higher. Is that turn-wheel cheek riser, the you are talking about, Vepr Super-specific or generic? I know that we can't link to non-sponsoring vendor products here, but can you point me in the right direction? Oh... I think I found it. Grizzly Gun Works, right? Interesting solution, but I wouldn't feel comfortable installing it myself or even making such a drastic alteration to the original stock.

 

looking at the lever could it not have been possible to remove it and flip the lever around so that the curve is facing outward instead? and then perhaps a rubber/vinyl dip coat on the lever as an added protection. it doesnt look like its one piece, looks like the outer nut could be removed so you can flip it around.

 

You wouldn't be able to flip it, because the lever has some built-in "teeth" designed to engage the opposite "teeth", which are located on the mount's locking bolt.The "teeth" face in one direction only. Although, I shall refrain from making permanents alteration to the locking lever (cutting the tip off) for now. in case someone does come up with a more elegant solution. I am afraid that I wouldn't know how to dip coat anything.

 

part of me would like to see a carbon polymer SVD style stock commercially produced. I do like the idea of a lighter polymer stock I know this rifle is a beast when it comes to weight. my only concern is how balanced it would be as a result. I also wonder how accuracy is affected if it was in a bullpup configuration, although I have heard reports from the Brits about bullpups attributing to hearing loss

 

It's actually not THAT heavy - 8.5 lbs with a scope mount, but it would be nice to have any alternative furniture options, maybe even, perhaps, some AK-like pistol grip and hand guards configuration options, in the future. SVD type polymer stuff would be really cool.

 

stocks

definitely more options for mags

maybe alternatives for the trigger, I have heard mixed opinions on the supers.

I'm sure i will add to this after I get mine.

 

I am supposed to get my CSSpecs 20 rd mags pretty soon. Should have already had them, but the dealer had a mix up and sent me CSSpecs Saiga 20 mags instead. :) I expect those mags to be pretty darn good though. The trigger is decent. It just has a bit of a creep before it breaks, but does break nicely and doesn't slap or anything. Still, it would be awesome to have some improved (like match grade) trigger options.

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An SKS sling is a very nice, functional piece. I have them on all my rifles. No rattle, unlike most American sling choices. It only looks bad if you buy the cheapest options.

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An SKS sling is a very nice, functional piece. I have them on all my rifles. No rattle, unlike most American sling choices. It only looks bad if you buy the cheapest options.

 

It's not a bad option. However, after I adjusted mine for correct length, when I try to use is for support while aiming, the metal buckle really bites into my neck.

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An SKS sling is a very nice, functional piece. I have them on all my rifles. No rattle, unlike most American sling choices. It only looks bad if you buy the cheapest options.

 

It's not a bad option. However, after I adjusted mine for correct length, when I try to use is for support while aiming, the metal buckle really bites into my neck.

 

In a hasty sling?

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An SKS sling is a very nice, functional piece. I have them on all my rifles. No rattle, unlike most American sling choices. It only looks bad if you buy the cheapest options.

 

It's not a bad option. However, after I adjusted mine for correct length, when I try to use is for support while aiming, the metal buckle really bites into my neck.

 

In a hasty sling?

 

A variation of thereof. I put the tension on my arm and neck.

Edited by SpetsnazGRU

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ISSUE #3 (TOP MOUNT DESIGN): This one obviously only applies to the top mount version of Vepr Super.Here's the deal: In a typical Russian fashion, the mount in designed for quick mounting and release, and to maintain zero after you remove and put it back on. That last part is essential, because there is NO WAY to field-strip the weapon with that mount on it. Mounting is easy enough: you raise the locking lever to its highest position, slide the mount on the receiver and rear sight block rails, and lower the locking lever until its sits snugly next to your barrel and touches the stock. It's all very easy and great, UNLESS you have a fairly large scope. In such a case, the scope objective housing prevents you from raising the locking lever all the way up. Trying to force and bend the lever around the scope doesn't work and does this (note the nasty scratch on the scope):

 

 

 

7151489309_730bbd1e66_b.jpg

 

 

 

 

You can still secure the mount in place, but you have to fuck with the hand screw, carefully manipulate the locking mechanism in place, etc. Removing the mount is just as cumbersome and you WILL LOSE YOUR ZERO taking off an putting the mount back on this way.

 

 

 

My brilliant, ingenious, elegant solution (sarcasm): Notice here, how the mount's locking lever is bent inward (to ensure that when you lock it, it sits out of the way, snuggly next to the barrel):

 

 

 

 

7151485347_333b99d9b6_b.jpg

 

 

 

This inward bend is what causes it to catch on big scope objective housing. So, I took the locking lever off the mount, put it on a hard table and smacked the shit out of it with a mallet, until it was no longer bent. smile.png The damage to the finish was very minimal and now the lever (mostly) clears my scope objective when in the upward position, allowing for quick attach, release and keeping zero. However, this DIY mod has created another issue: When the lever is in the down (locked) position, it really sticks out away from the weapon, a few mm longer than the charging handle. It looks like this:

 

 

 

 

7151489309_730bbd1e66_b.jpg

 

 

 

This is obviously not ideal, since the locking lever can poke you, catch on things, etc.

 

 

 

My planned solution: I am going to take off the locking lever once again and use a dremel with a cut-off wheel to chop off that bent tip, as it seems to be completely unnecessary and removing it will make the locking lever stick out by 1/2" less. I hate doing shit like this to a $170 piece of gear, but it seems like the obvious answer.

 

 

 

Well my falcon scope is only a 44mm, although the outside is 53mm. I noticed the my Falcon sits lower than your POSP as well, which means if I were to cut the lever it would have to be much lower on the lever. I will have to work out some ideas with my friend and his father(retired gunsmith) in the time being it looks like I can just loosen up the retaining nut and use a flat screwdriver on the other side to lock the scope in place.

 

2012-08-20%2020.32.11.jpg

Edited by Dracozny

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Unfortunately, I've never tapped or re-tapped anything in my life (well, I have tapped some... you know what ). I've used self-tapping screws on plastic stocks though. So, would I need to precisely measure a swivel lug of my choice, then drill a hole like one size smaller and then use the right size "tap"? What are all the measurements that I would need?

 

 

 

Take out the sling screw and take it to a Lowes. In the fastener section they should have a board that you can screw it into that will tell you the size and pitch of the thread. If the VEPRs are consistent with other Russian rifes, it will be a common metric thread. This will at least let you know what you have to match.

 

The sling stud screws that they tried to sell you are for screwing into a wood stock. They also make ones that have a machined thread. Uncle Mikes and ATI both make the machined version. Chances are that they will both be standard as opposed to metric, but it is a start. If you have to redrill and tap, it is very easy. If you can work a drill and a screwdriver, you can drill and re-tap in less than 10 minutes.

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sorry bro, but adding tapco furniture to these would be fucking gross, hunting trip or not. there is a place that makes some nice furniture, just not for the supers.

 

I have a posp scope mounted on my 54r vepr right now, it fits perfectly and sits just the perfect height. it uses the standard mounting bracket and works 110% like its supposed to.

 

I agree that the sling swivels look lacking. I will talk to my military kit contact in Russia soon to see if they sell any accessories/parts for these rifles over there so that I can get some.

 

I want to see some vepr FIRING PINS (unless they are interchangeable with other available ones). Just like in the S12s, the firing pins are spring loaded, and the manual says to not dry fire these. I can see accidentally pulling the trigger on an empty chamber at the range, especially with the up and coming 10 round mags. would hate for the pin to break from such a scenario.

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Looks like I found one badass replacement stock for the Super Vepr. Its 500 bucks and you'd have to pay off someone to ship it to the u.s., but it looks real fuckin' neato. If you had this, you could take the original hunting.

 

http://ak74m.ru/shop/UID_6288.html

 

also found replacements for the originals, for like 150 bucks for the buttstock alone (for regular veprs)... jeez. Spare firing pins also for like 17 bucks for a Vepr .308. I wonder if they interchange with the 54r?

 

All the sling swivels that I have found so far are the exact same as come standard. Russian forums showed images of people drilling into wood to install other swivels. Also found a thread about mounting a bipod via the front sling swivel.

 

nothing interesting really. I might have to get some firing pins and also some of that fancy oil that the manual was talking about.

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Looks like I found one badass replacement stock for the Super Vepr. Its 500 bucks and you'd have to pay off someone to ship it to the u.s., but it looks real fuckin' neato. If you had this, you could take the original hunting.

 

http://ak74m.ru/shop/UID_6288.html

 

also found replacements for the originals, for like 150 bucks for the buttstock alone (for regular veprs)... jeez. Spare firing pins also for like 17 bucks for a Vepr .308. I wonder if they interchange with the 54r?

 

All the sling swivels that I have found so far are the exact same as come standard. Russian forums showed images of people drilling into wood to install other swivels. Also found a thread about mounting a bipod via the front sling swivel.

 

nothing interesting really. I might have to get some firing pins and also some of that fancy oil that the manual was talking about.

I will be taking some measurements of various things on my weekend, I'll be sure to spec out the firing pin for you

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That would really help, cause if they interchange then I will have to order a few of them. I found some extractors for an actual 54r online also.

 

I don't know why, but all the Russian sites had plenty of spare parts for all Veprs, but not nearly as much for the 54r.

 

I also found out that Russia still makes brand spanking new SKS and Mosin Nagant rifles for the civilian market, and that they come with new scope mounts on the left side. As well as Tokarevs and all the other good stuff... Why don't we import some brand new would-be c&r stuff? sad.png

Edited by Agent Lemon
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thats one of those questions you have to as the ATF and Customs. there is so much Bureaucratic BS involved in why or why not a firearm can be imported its ridiculous.

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firing pin specs:

length - 86mm

diameter - 4mm

spring shoulder - 5mm wide

spring shoulder length aprox 3.5mm

pin depth before taper - 3mm

 

hope that helps you

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The way I got around this issue of only using the crappy swivels on the Vepr Super 223 that I own is to mount Uncle Mike's Quick Detachable Bases #2520-0 with the 1/2" and 3/4"  long wood screw studs and leave the forestock with the 5mm 60 thd/in screw as is.  It is needed to secure the end of the barrel to the stock.  No, I chose not to retap it even though a 10/32 UNF screw might just work.  The metal is very thin on the sides and I didn't want to risk fracturing this stub in the process.  On the back end of the stock I went to www.woodcraft.com and purchased some 3/8" dia Walnut wood plugs, (part no. 17P11) and epoxied it in place using System Three T-88 Epoxy also purchased at Woodcraft.com.  Be sure to tamp the epoxy down into the existing screw hole and then cover the sides of the plug and upper sides of the hole with epoxy also  where it will bond to.  It takes overnight for this epoxy to cure but I gave it 2 days so there would be no problems when I redrilled it with Uncle Mike's Swivel Installation Step Drill Set #2552-0.  Be sure to use the smaller diameter step drill for drilling the root diameter of the 1/2" dia swivel stud which I used on the foregrip .  Measure with a vernier calipers (buy at Lowe's Home Improvement) to be sure.  The 1/2" long swivel stud

will work on the forestock without any modifications to the stud ie. shortening it as it will not come in contact with the barrel when installed in the stock.  The only problem I really encountered in this is that I could not reinstall my trigger safety after I removed it inorder to remove the entire receiver/barrel assembly from the stock.  So I just put some black plastic plugs for 1/4" dia holes in them.  Who needs a safety anyway, if the gun is always loaded and handled accordingly.  A safety is a false sense of security. One last thing, be sure to put some liquid dish washing soap on the stud threads when you install them.  It lubricates the threads and makes the swivel much easier to twist into the stock.  The distance I used was 2" from the opening in the stock for the factory front swivel to the new location of the new swivel. The most critical time

in installing swivel studs is at the very beginning. Concentrate on keeping the center axis of the stud inline with the centerline axis of the hole and turn it very slowly

while applying medium downward pressure. Use a pin punch or small screwdriver thru the stud swivel hole to help apply the torque needed to get it to begin to thread in. Ex-

ercise patience and don't get in a hurry. In the end, you will have swivels studs that will like like they were put in at the factory.

Edited by 2ndAmmendLVR2014

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This is what the VEPR SUPER 223 barrel mount looks like when removed from the stock. A #10-32 UNF machine screw is very close to the Russian 5mmx60THD/IN machine

screw but the area that would require re-tapping for the new thread might be hardened and prove to complicate the process. The sides are very thin also and might not

remain intact. The inletting in this area is oval or round and I used 2 inches as my distance from the edge of the factory slot in the stock to the center of my swivel

stud hole.

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Hello SpetsnazGRU:

 

I feel your pain regarding the rifle sling issue and the totally inadequate factory swivels designed to fail. Take a look at my postings and see how I remedied the pro

blem. I searched high and low thru many websites trying to find someone who sells a 3/4" or 7/8" wide sling to work with the existing swivels. Found not one. Shame

I had to modify this high dollar rifle but it is what it is and I decided I wasn't going to live with a poor design. The strongest, simplest, and cheapest way to over-

come this problem is to change the studs to agree with those swivels sold in the U.S.. Then you can put any sling on you desire. Remember to check BEFORE you drill

that the drill bit is 90 degrees to the edge of the forestock and butt stock in both directions---from the side and looking down the center axis of the stock.

2ndAmmendLVR2014

Edited by 2ndAmmendLVR2014

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Unfortunately, I've never tapped or re-tapped anything in my life (well, I have tapped some... you know what ). I've used self-tapping screws on plastic stocks though. So, would I need to precisely measure a swivel lug of my choice, then drill a hole like one size smaller and then use the right size "tap"? What are all the measurements that I would need?

 

 

 

Take out the sling screw and take it to a Lowes. In the fastener section they should have a board that you can screw it into that will tell you the size and pitch of the thread. If the VEPRs are consistent with other Russian rifes, it will be a common metric thread. This will at least let you know what you have to match.

 

The sling stud screws that they tried to sell you are for screwing into a wood stock. They also make ones that have a machined thread. Uncle Mikes and ATI both make the machined version. Chances are that they will both be standard as opposed to metric, but it is a start. If you have to redrill and tap, it is very easy. If you can work a drill and a screwdriver, you can drill and re-tap in less than 10 minutes.

 

Hello Spacehog,

 

Since I work for Lowe's H.I. in the Hardware Department I can tell you that we don't have any thread gauges that will match the extra fine thread pitch on this Russian machine screw in the

forestock/barrel/swivel assembly of the VEPR SUPER 223 carbine. And no, this steel is more than likely flame or case hardened which means that re-tapping it will be very difficult. It may

even break the tap. And you will not be able to tap to the full depth of the hole because of the how male taps are designed. I started out with the wood thread swivel studs and can enlarge them to a machine screw/nut combo if the wood thread studs fail to hold. The machine screw provided in Uncle Mike's swivel set is a #10 diameter, 32 TPI Unified National Fine (UNF) thread

which is very common. I would leave the factory fitting and screw in place and add another swivel as I did. In so doing you won't weaken the design for securing the barrel to the stock.

Check out my posts #17,18,19 and #20

2ndAmmendLVR2014

Edited by 2ndAmmendLVR2014

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The screw/sling attachment on the vepr .308 should be the same. Find the sling screw used on the Robinson Arms era veprs and your sling problem should be solved. Robinson had to use a usa sourced screw since all veprs came in with the craply factory sling mount. Pic is of the Robinson front sling screw and washer next to factory vepr .308 hardware. I tried it on my .308 vepr wooden handguard and it fits perfectly. Have to dig up my super vepr to make sure it fits but I'm sure it does. Love that my robinson arms super vepr doesn't have the ported barrel found on the recent batch of super vepr imports.

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