Johnny N Tx 0 Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 I have started a conversion on a 308. The plate came off no problem... Issue number 1 - the pins that were supposed to "push out with ease" had to be punched out with a pin punch. There was no wire holding them in (supposedly there is wire in the grooves... mine had none) and I didn't see anything holding them in other than friction. A few solid taps from a 1lbs ballpeen and a pin punch and they cam eout... but one of them is pretty chewed up (I'm guessing i wasn't the first person to remove these and thaat was why they wouldn't budge). I can't seem to find replacements for these pins or the wire that is supposed to hold them in. Suggestions??? Issue number 2 - I got the CSS kit that includes their billet trigger guard... but it DOES NOT fit this chassis. When I look at all of the conversion that are completed for the 308, they either use the standard trigger guard with a separate piece to hold on the PG or they have used the Dinzag unit. The issue seems to be that the CSS unit is made from aluminum and is too thick to mount flush up to the mag release so the hole are off by 1/4". Suggestions??? Last question - When I did the touch up paint I decided to dust it with a mix of gold and beige so it would have a custom look )the furniture will be dark earth... I thought this would go well with that color scheme) ... has anyone had experience with painting the entire weapon??? If I didn't lay it on thick (literally, dusted it and it was totally dry within 30 seconds) will it flake off from heat or will it be OK? Won't be doing any rapid fire with it or anything, but just used regular krylon and wasn't sure how temp resistant it would be... Suggestions??? J Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Johnny N Tx 0 Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-567/Saiga-Rifle-Trigger-Guard/Detail Well, I answered one of my questions for myself... did some more digging on the CSS websight and finally found where it says you have to drill new holes for this trigger guard... if I'd have known that, I'd have gotten the steel one instead... too late now. Still need to figure out where to get the replacemnet pins and the locking wire... anybody have a good supplier for stock repair parts on these??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gpqueen 545 Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 1. Something must have been holding the pins in place or they would not have been damaged when you removed them. Axis pins are for sale on our site. 2.The instructions that come with trigger state that none of the trigger guards will line up on the 308 and 2 new holes must be drilled. That is true for the steel ones also. It is also listed in the description page of the kit on our website. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
corbin 621 Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 (edited) Hi Johnny Welcome to the forum. I'll address the issues as you mentioned them: If you're talking about the trigger and hammer pins, CSS sells those. If you mean the two rivets that held the trigger linkage and rearward trigger, those are not meant to just push out. You have to drill or grind the head a bit, then punch them out. I can't comment much on that particular trigger guard setup, as I've never used them. But have you contacted Greg at CSS? I'm sure he'll take care of you if you explain the problem. It's fairly well accepted that a hi temp paint works well on Saigas. Duplicolor engine paint # DE 1634 is often used, but that's matte black. I'm sure they have something close to the color you want though. I've seen some engine paint with ceramic in it that's supposed to withstand high temps. For best results, use a degreaser to thouroughly clean the Saiga and any parts you intend to paint. Some (most) cleaners require you to rinse with water. Follow the directions. I'd recommend wearing gloves after/during cleaning to prevent fingerprints. Once everything is dry, you can spray very light coats. Some prefer to slightly heat up the metal parts before this, as it helps the paint mist dry quickly (almost flash evaporate). Remember, you'll want to do several light passes, allowing each to dry, rather than one or two thick coats. This is key to a durable finish. It's OK to paint the Saiga in sections rather than having to get everything covered in one pass. If you're doing very thin coats, it won't show. Once everything is painted how you want it, the paint needs to cure. The best way to do this is to put everything in an oven for 1 hour at about 250 degrees. Now the hard part....let the firearm sit for a week or two out of the way somewhere. Resist the urge to assemble it, shoot it and generally enjoy it (I know, it's not easy). After a couple weeks, the paint will have hardened quite well and can now stand up to firing. Feel free to oil what you want to oil, but beware of certain cleaners that may react with the paint. Things like break cleaner have been known to eat paint. Again, welcome to the forum and I hope this helped. *edit* I see in the time it took to write this, some of the issues have resolved themselves. Edited May 31, 2012 by Corbin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Johnny N Tx 0 Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 I tried to call CSS but no one answered (I'm guessing they stay pretty busy). He did, however, have time to leave me a note on here, and I thank you for that sir. The retainer spring was missing, and the pins were all jacked up... got lucky and a buddy had an extra set in his shop... so I got it all squared away. Still gives me the willies that I ran through about 100 rounds in this rifle since I picked it up and there was nothing holding those pins in besides friction and dumb luck. That is the LAST time I fire a weapon that I haven't personally torn down and gone through. Thanks to all for the responses. Here's the finished product... Saiga 308-1 with the CSS trigger group, a phoenix kicklite stock (BIG help with the 308), tapco forend/rail set up with magpul rail covers and a (hate to admit it) UTG 5 position foregrip (only thing they make that is worth a damn). SGM bolt on compensator (makes a bigger difference than the kicklite stock did... which is really saying something). Kalinka Optics provided the scope rail (ntb painted still) and a nikon prostaff in 3-9x50 with UV filters. The bipod and mount are amazon specials (cheap and disposable). I think I'd like to add a krebs peep sight to replace the factory unit, but at 75 yds I'm picking out a 2" group just high of center...so I'm happy with the iron sights for now... the scope needs to be re-zeroed since I have been wrenching on this thing. I usually group about the same (2" more or less) at 200 yds with the pro staff (best scope I have ever owned). The paint is gold base coat (very light) with a dusting of beige... I thought it looked cool with the dark earth furniture. Need to rewrap the foregrip and the mags in desert marpat to match... the realtree just doesn't look right with it now. Thanks for the helpful tips. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Johnny N Tx 0 Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 OK... before I forget... anyone have a suggestion for how to get a good cheek weld when using the scope??? I have been using a rubber pad with the factory stocks... but I would like to see if there is something available that will attach to the collapsible stock. Checked it out and the position is perfect for using the iron sights... but no where near joyful with the scope. Suggestions??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jojo200517 68 Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 (edited) It looks like you got the issues worked out but I just wanna throw a couple things out there. I'm really surprised the pins stayed in the gun justt by "friction and dumb luck" with no retaining spring or plate. Mine will practically fall out without the spring or plate. Not sure what damaged your original ones but they are just standard AK axis pins from what I can tell and it never hurts to have a spare or 2 laying around in case you drop one and it rolls to who knows where. Someone mentioned the type of pins you bore out. It really needs to be stickied that this does not apply to the .308 variant. Other saiga rifles and shotguns require this but not the .308 one. Hence why we don't have to plug the extra receiver holes. Getting the holes bored in the correct place for that trigger guard was one of the hardest parts of the conversion. Its not CSS's fault but a where to drill the holes template would be nice, even a printable version on the website and something marked as 1 inch for scale reference would be awesome. Mine were off a smidge because I didn't measure twice and drill once, instead I used the measure once, drill it and grind it till it fit menthod As far as a cheek riser, I recally seeing a couple snap on ones of different height somewhere that fit the tapco T-6 stocks but I can't recall where, and i'm not sure if the dimensions of your kicklite stock are close enough for it to work or not. Maybe someone else can chime in here. Ultimately this is why I picked the Mako stock for mine and also replaced the tapco t6 on my regular AK with it, because you can get an adjustable bolt on cheek riser for them. Edited June 1, 2012 by jojo200517 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mephis 82 Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 There isn't such a thing as "does not fit" when it comes to these guns. You make things fit. This can some times require welding and research. Never hammer axis pins out, you probably neglected to remove the anchor wire, or got them hung up on something. Don't understand why people buy trigger guards for these guns that come with a PG nut already on them... The saiga 308 already has a PG nut hole, all you need is the spindley sheet metal trigger guard and to drill 2 holes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
su16a 84 Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 Don't understand why people buy trigger guards for these guns that come with a PG nut already on them... The saiga 308 already has a PG nut hole, all you need is the spindley sheet metal trigger guard and to drill 2 holes. Can’t argue with, I salvaged my old trigger guards on each of my builds. Minus the front grip here’s another CSS build, just added the brake a few weeks ago.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodes1968 1,638 Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 (edited) Concerning the cheek weld the obvious answer is to lower the scope, get a lower profile side mount like a BP-02 from Kalinka or a rail mount such as TWS. As long as the scope clears the iron sight by a cm or so go as low as possible. Generaly it is wise to mount any sighting system as close to the plane of the barrel as you may. Edited June 8, 2012 by Rhodes1968 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mtjccmotel 12 Posted June 9, 2012 Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 (edited) Another inexpensive solution (not mine, but I do use it and it works) the foam pipe insulation you pick up at the hardware store that is approx 3/4-1" pipe insulation has outside diameter of approx 2" works pretty good for getting good cheekweld. Just cut a piece the same length as the stock. and stick it on. Duct tape helps hold it in place. You can buy a more expensive cheek riser when funds permit, but at least you can shoot the riffle comfortably in the meantime. Edited June 9, 2012 by Noob308 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ericeric 3 Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 If you have a .308 Saiga. Get your conversion stuff from Dinzag Arms. He has FCG and trigger guard assemblies already worked to drop right into a Saiga .308. Apparently 308's have minor fitment issues and Dinzag addresses those before he sends stuff out. I was going to order from CSS myself, they told me the FCG will drop right into a .308 but I was still skeptical after researching. After talking to Dinzag, He cleared everything up for me and I just ordered his stuff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gpqueen 545 Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 I have done several 308's myself and used the same trigger kits we sell with no issues. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dad2142Dad 6,559 Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 I have used CSS kits in all of my builds, including the 308. Have never had an issue with them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NickWhite 7 Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 On both my S308 and my S223 both were CSS and they both went smoothly and function perfectly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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