KennyFSU 249 Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 The obvious things I can see are the receiver and barrel. Any AK experts in here that can spot anything else? Also, any idea where I can find the missing parts? Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fallschirmjager667 729 Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 looks complete to me 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
schultze13 354 Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 barrel , receiver, rivits and a tapco G2 FCG the FA group is useless for a semi-auto build 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KennyFSU 249 Posted December 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 looks complete to me Lol, but when I put it together and tried to fire it nothing happened! barrel , receiver, rivits and a tapco G2 FCG the FA group is useless for a semi-auto build I could still use the current fcg without any issues, right? And rivets for what? The receiver? Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thebuns1 4,323 Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Yeah you'll need rivets for the trunnions and the trigger guard/selector stop. Nice score Kenny! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fallschirmjager667 729 Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 yes, the factory FCG will work, you just have no use for the full auto parts (sear, rate reducer, etc) to be safe you should get rid of those parts and grind off the tail of the disconnector Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KennyFSU 249 Posted December 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Gotcha, thanks Cap'n. It's actually an early Xmas present, from myself. Understood, RH, thanks for the input. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shandlanos 1,470 Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Kenny - replacing the FCG is one of the easiest/cheapest ways to get a few compliance parts. There's really not much point in using foreign FCG parts, unless you already have enough compliance parts and really want to use those factory originals. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KennyFSU 249 Posted December 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Kenny - replacing the FCG is one of the easiest/cheapest ways to get a few compliance parts. There's really not much point in using foreign FCG parts, unless you already have enough compliance parts and really want to use those factory originals. Understood, the G2 pack is pretty cheap too so I will add that to the list. Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted December 2, 2012 Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 Additionally using the rate reducer assembly and auto disconnector in a semi AK is dangerous because you can potentially create a functional MG without the addition of a third axis pin. The difference is that there is no safety sear to prevent it from firing out of battery and blowing up in your face. Enjoy the G2 trigger. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VR762Shooter 838 Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 I cant zoom in close enough to get a good shot of the bolt, but does it even have a firing pin? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Sort of hard to tell since the pin would be inside the bolt P.S. you're lucky if you got the kit the way it's shown, without barrel stubs. I hate de-milling the stubs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VR762Shooter 838 Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 Sort of hard to tell since the pin would be inside the bolt On not all, but some, the rear of the pin will extend out the back under spring tension, or just based on how it was placed down. If it didn't extend out of the bolt the hammer could never hit it, that's what I was referring to. It isn't high enough res to be able to see it though. If it functions normally when pieced together and he pulls the trigger and there is absolutely nothing, pin would be my first guess at a missing piece Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted December 12, 2012 Report Share Posted December 12, 2012 With a barrel that was not made with the gun, you will need to headspace the barrel, and use a 7MM endmill to drill the barrel for the barrel stiff (retaining pin). Do not use SAMMI gauges, you need commy made go/no go gauges. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted December 13, 2012 Report Share Posted December 13, 2012 Does anyone actually make those? Some builders will pin the barrel as soon as the bolt rotates 1/4 turn on a GO gauge, but does not fully close on the gauge. At this state it should still close on a live or dummy round. This practice was developed after some checked a few Euro factory builds and found that this is where they typically spaced them at. This does suggest that the "commie spec" is different from SAAMI. Frustrating. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.