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Issue with safety lever after G2 trigger swap


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Ran into a bit of an issue after swapping out the FCG in my VEPR. I purchased the Tromix modified G2 setup, took everything apart, swapped out the factory FCG with the Tromix parts, but instead of using the Tromix Shepherd's crook I reused the factory Saiga axis pin retaining plate.

 

When I went to engage the safety after swapping the FCG, I was unable to put it into "safe" because part of the safety lever that protruded lower was hitting the rear of the trigger, causing it to not be possible to engage. Luckily I was able to get it all back apart (which was more difficult because I reused the axis pin retaining plate, which can only be easily removed after removing the safety.........which can only be removed by moving it past the "safe" position.

 

So now I have the option of removing some material from the trigger itself that contacts the safety lever, or remove the material from the safety lever. As far as I can tell, the two areas that contact each other serve no purpose and less than 1mm of material will need to be removed. Figured I'd post up here before doing it and make sure I'm not missing anything about the modification.

 

Thanks!

 

(pics of areas coming in contact attached)

 

 

 

 

post-7138-0-70023800-1359860858_thumb.jpg

post-7138-0-76850400-1359860876_thumb.jpg

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Alright, I got brave and decided to just round the sharp edges of the parts coming in contact and the safety engages fine now with no contact. I was doing some reading on the G2 FCG and swaps into Saiga rifles and it sounded like this was fairly common to run into.

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This is not unusual, and actually gives you a chance to make it nicer than many get. If you file a very shallow step into the trigger body where the safety engages, rather than shortening the tab on the safety, you can keep the safety from swinging too far upward.

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This is not unusual, and actually gives you a chance to make it nicer than many get. If you file a very shallow step into the trigger body where the safety engages, rather than shortening the tab on the safety, you can keep the safety from swinging too far upward.

Can you post a picture of this modification? I'd like to see the angle of the step and how far you actually have to go.

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No picture, but the circle in your first picture shows where. keep the angle on the top of the trigger body the same as it is now. How deep is controlled by your safety. The only way to tell is to install the safety behind the trigger body, which may require you to leave out the retaining plate for your test. Then swing the safety up to see where it hits on the back of the trigger. Then carefully file down to just above that mark. After that do a couple swipes of the file and test fit. how far the "step" should go forward is a bit trickier to tell, but basically, what you need to do is install the safety without the trigger body, and swing it into the "safe" position. mark on the inside of the receiver how far forward the leading edge of the safety tab goes. Then put the trigger in and mark the same point on the trigger body.

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No picture, but the circle in your first picture shows where. keep the angle on the top of the trigger body the same as it is now. How deep is controlled by your safety. The only way to tell is to install the safety behind the trigger body, which may require you to leave out the retaining plate for your test. Then swing the safety up to see where it hits on the back of the trigger. Then carefully file down to just above that mark. After that do a couple swipes of the file and test fit. how far the "step" should go forward is a bit trickier to tell, but basically, what you need to do is install the safety without the trigger body, and swing it into the "safe" position. mark on the inside of the receiver how far forward the leading edge of the safety tab goes. Then put the trigger in and mark the same point on the trigger body.

Thanks !

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My tromix modified G2 dropped directly in without doing this.

yep. Ruskie guns have variance. My IZ108 didn't need enough to make a good step for the click either on one of them. I got a little bit of a click, but I can push past with force. Some have enough conflict to make a positive stop on the upward swing, and others need nothing. This is why all the trigger groups mention safety fitting in the instructions. There are variances, and small amounds of metal and small tolerance variations in axis pin locations make big differences. Remember, tolerances are cumulative. There isn't a magic measurement that works for everyone here. You just have to see what works on yours, same as a gun smith would do. I haven't heard of anyone with an unmodified safety tab having so much clearance that the safety didn't do its job, but I suppose that is possible too.

 

 

Doodi- glad to help

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