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zagumennyyilya

Range Report After the cork bedding and trigger work

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I bedded the super barrel to the stock to have even pressure on the forearm and worked on the trigger to make it feel nice and smooth, and now I took the rifle to see the results of my work. Let me tell you, I am satisfied with how the rifle shoots. Before, I had no idea if it was me, a crummy shooter, a bad scope, bad scope mount setup, improperly loaded ammo, or shitty rifle. Well look for yourselves. The rifle is showing improvement and I like it.

 

This is my setup and my shooting bench.

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The distance is a paced out 110 yards or meters so give or take 10 yards.

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I shot both of my rifles and on the targets I have written down which rifle and what ammo did what.

 

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The older rifle has the round ported compensator on the end and the newer import has the slant cuts, the older rifle has a softer recoil pulse and I can get back on target quicker and sometimes I can even see the impact through the scope. The newer slant cuts really do nothing for me.

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This is the newer rifle and a 50 yard sight in using a Hornady 150 grn. fmj-bt bullet behind some IMR 4895, 44 grns.

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This is the newer rifle at the 100 yard with some Speer 125 grn TNT varmint bullets and they never did any good in any of my riflespost-40466-0-74407100-1365056790_thumb.jpg

 

Newer rifle at 100 yards using Hornady 150 grn fmj-bt with 44 grns IMR 4895.

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Newer rifle at 100 yrds with Sierra 168 grain HP-BT match king with 39 grains of Reloader 15 Powder, the 4 shots nice group and then I have no idea what happened, maybe my fault, I jerked when i fired.

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Newer rifle at 100 with the Sierra 168 bullet now with 40 grains of Reloader 15.

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Newer rifle at 100 with Sierra 168 bullet now with 41 grains of Reloader 15.

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Newer rifle at 100 with Sierra 168 now with 42 grains of Reolader 15.

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Newer rifle at 100 with Sierra 168 with 43 grains of Reloader 15. you see a pattern now, more powder and the groups grow in size.

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These groups are now done with the older rifle, I had done the same mods to both of them, triggers smoothed out and cork under the barrels. This is a 50 yard sight in with the last of my Hornady 150 grain FMJ-BT with 44 grains of IMR 4895. I shot 3 rounds and then adjusted the scope for the final 2 shots.

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This is with Sierra 168 same sequence as the newer rifle, starting load 39 grains and ending with 43 grains of Reloader 15 powder,

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Older rifle, Sierra 168, 40 grains of powder,

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Now 41 grains

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42 grains

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43 grains

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Again, the groups seem to be opening up as the powder charge increases, but less pronounced than the newer rifle, this may be because I put less sheets of cork between the stock and the barrel on the olde model then on the newer model, I had 9 sheets on the newer model and only 7 sheets on the older model. Thats my guess.

 



This is comparing the groups of the Newer rifle before the mods done to it and after the mods, the bullet was the Sierra 168 grain HP-BT match king, and the powders are different but supposedly not too far off velocity wise according to the reloading manual. I see an imporovement, looking at all the targets i have of before and after, to me there is.

 

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nice improvement, I think we could probably do more. nice info on the reload powder charge. I will have to do some research on that front.

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GUYS,

TRY THE SIERRA #2315 174GR MATCHKING, IT'S .311, vs. THE 168SMK, WHICH IS .308.

 

IF YOUR BORE IS .310 OR .311, THAT MIGHT HELP.

 

THOUGH I HAVEN'T TRIED IT YET MYSELF, I'VE HEARD THAT THIS ROUND RESPONDS WELL TO VARGET POWDER; THIS COMES FROM ONE OF THE GUYS AT SIERRA.

 

BEEN USING H380 MYSELF, WILL GET SOME VARGET WHEN I GET THE CHANCE.

 

ALSO USING FEDERAL MATCH PRIMERS.

 

MINE ISN'T THE SUPER, JUST THE STRAIGHT VEPR.

 

JESS1344

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Has anyone slugged their barrel to see what the exact bore dimensions are?

I used a hard plastic pen and pressed it in the muzzle then measured the circumference of the mark with my Calipers, measuring from the chamber I can squeeze it up to just under .310 but that is about where the brass expansion is taking place.

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GUYS,

I SLUGGED THE BORES IN A COUPLE OF NORINCO'S BACK IN THE MID-1980's USING HORNADY #6000 .310 LEAD BALLS.

 

I PLACED THEM ON THE ANVIL OF A VICE, AND BUMPED THEM UP TO.314 WITH A FEW TAPS OF A HAMMER.

 

I JUST CHECKED THE HORNADY W-SITE TO SEE IF THEY STILL EVEN CARRY THEM, IT'S ONLY BEEN 28 YEARS AGO, AND THEY STILL DO; A BOX OF 100 @ $9.84, MY BOX IS MARKED $3.26 FROM THE LONG CLOSED SPORTING GOODS INC. IN HOUSTON.

 

I ACQUIRED A 1/4" HARDWOOD DOWEL ROD 36" LONG FROM THE LOCAL HARDWARE STORE (PRE-WALMART DAYS).

 

I THOROUGHLY CLEANED THE BARRELS, RAN A DRY PATCH THROUGH, FOLLOWED BY ONE LIGHTLY DAMP WITH BREAK FREE.

 

I SAWED ABOUT 6" OFF THE DOWEL TO USE AS A BALL STARTER, PLACED ONE OF THE BALLS ON THE MUZZLE, AFTER REMOVING THE SHOVEL-NOSED FACTORY BRAKE (THIS WAS IN THE DAYS WHERE THERE WERE ABOUT FRIGGIN' ZIP-ZERO-NADA AFTERMARKET ACCESSORIES FOR AK's), WITH ONE OF THE FLATTENED SIDES UP.

 

TAPPED IT IN ABOUT 5", WITHDREW THE BALL STARTER, AND GOT THE REMAINDER OF THE DOWEL ROD, AND PUSHED THE BALL ON THROUGH THE BORE, AND INTO MY WAITING HAND AT THE CHAMBER END (REMOVE RECEIVER COVER, BOLT, CARRIER AND RECOIL SPRING ASSY. BEFORE HAND).

 

MIKE SAID NOW-ENGRAVED BALL WITH SOME MICROMETER CALIPERS.

 

PATCH LEAD RESIDUE OUT OF BORE WITH YOUR BREAK FREE DAMPENED PATCH (YOU DID SAVE THAT PATCH RIGHT?).

 

THAT'S HOW I DID IT ANYWAY.

 

BTW, WHILE I WAS ON THE HORNADY SITE, I DID OBSERVE THAT THEY DO ALSO NOW HAVE #6003 ,315 LEAD BALLS, WHICH SHOULD WORK JUST AS WELL, AND NOT HAVE TO BOTHER WITH THAT HAMMER BUMPING THING; SAME PRICE.

 

DOWEL RODS CAN NOWDAYS BE FOUND IN THE ARTSY-CRAFTSY SECTION OF WALMART (THEY DROVE THE LOCAL HARDWARE STORE INTO TITS-UP).

 

JESS1344

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Thanks Zag for the detailed write up on your trigger and cork bedding work. All very intriguing. Your work is amazingly helpful, as most posts have little facts or details, just opinions and hearsay.

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