MD-20 mod

[Cbass 23]

I got my MD-20 drums the other day. Took them out for a test run and had a blast. Only thing that I didn't enjoy was reloading them. I found that stuffing the shells in was cumbersome and annoying to say the least. I decided to make some modifications to Mr. Davidson's design so that it would be much easier and faster to load it back up.

 

What do you think?

 

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ff18xzff3DI&feature=youtu.be

[Blitz636 6]

I've never loaded an MD20 myself, but I'm seriously impressed. Less the. 45sec start to finish, bet I'm close to that to casually load a 12rnd stick.

[Matthew Hopkins 1,065]

that is neat, I thought about doing something like that when I had to open up the back to adjust the spring tension. but, decided to forgo that since it's not that big of a deal loading it through the top and it wouldn't save that much time.

Edited April 7, 2013 by Matthew Hopkins

[Cbass 23]

Matt,

 

I loaded the MD-20 5 times I think on Friday afternoon and I was done with that business...

 

Anyway thanks for the positive feedback guys. I shot up all my available ammo yesterday so I probably won't get to test my mod out under live fire for a while. Just want to make sure it is GTG and doesn't fall apart on me

[saiga12noober 9]

Could you explain the mod you did with pics and clients thanks.

[HotShot308 11]

I agree it's fast, but you didn't describe your mod... plus, at the beginning when you were removing the cover you were partially out of frame, and at the end when you were loading in the last few and re-installing the cover, you were completely out of frame...

 

Tell us a little about what your mod is please.

[ARCHANGEL 104]

Yes please do a " how to " with pics and or video, if you can. Also how many times have you loaded each mag that way and ran all 20 rounds through it? Any binding or problems?

 

Thanks!

[Cbass 23]

Ok guys here is what I did... unfortunately I can't find ammo to go test it yet but I have hand cycled this 4 or 5 times and there were no issues.

 

Go to ACE Hardware and buy a handle and some flat head screws, cost me ~$5.

 

Install the handle so the flat head screws sit flush with the ridges of the cover plate so they cannot affect the rotation of the drum.

 

Next I bent the clip that holds the cover on (once the screws are removed) so that I could hook up a pull ring on it.

 

[Matthew Hopkins 1,065]

very clever

 

when I was contemplating doing something like that, my idea was to attach 3 clips on the drum , like that is on a Chinese AK drum, 2 near the top, off set to the feed tower, and one on the bottom, what you did is much simpler. for winding, I had the idea of using a folding handle placed on either side of the spring housing on the inner drum, where it could fold back into the recess, to wind the inner drum rather then grabbing the "shell slots."

 

the only thing I would do differently, is I would use a knob draw pull rather then a handle, only because it's not a big thing attached to the back.

 

 

because I'm a cheap bastard, garage sale season is starting, so that is on my list to buy, "will you take a dime for this pull?"

 

 

I don't believe that it will cause any issues with feeding, the back plate is pretty thick and it's not going to flex that might cause shells not to feed.

Edited April 11, 2013 by Matthew Hopkins

[Matthew Hopkins 1,065]

I noticed in your video that use a shell to prop the inner drum, here is something that will work much better and you already have that item.

 

 

take the retainer and hook it over the edge of the drum and the follower, the screw "bump" will keep the retainer in place. then, after filling the inner drum, put in 3 shells into the tower, first shell will go into the inner drum 'slot" other 2 in the tower, then just take the retainer off.

Edited April 7, 2013 by Matthew Hopkins

[Cbass 23]

Matt,

 

I was looking for a way to prop the drum open without using a shell. I will give that a try the next time a load it up.

[Matthew Hopkins 1,065]

darn you Cbass, you made me do it, you are a bad influence

 

I went and modified my drum as well. see what happens when you have too much time on your hands

 

 

instead of a pull handle or pull knob, I went down to my basement and found a small piece of bar stock laying around, and attached that to the middle of the drum back plate, after contouring it. I screwed into the back plate and filed the end of the screws flush with the inner plate, so it won't interfere with the spring housing.

 

 

since I had a beat up dresser draw that I use to store tools and such, I went with my idea of using a folding pull handle and attached it to the inner drum. so instead of grabbing the inner drum shell slots, I use the handle to rotate the inner drum, which your fingers will thank you, if you are loading the thing numerous times. .

 

You will have to take the inner drum out completely from the drum housing in order to screw the handle from the back. if you are going to do this, then count how many rotations it originally had when you unwind the inner drum, so you can put the same amount of spring tension when you wind it back up.

 

 

I didn't need to buy any of the items, since all the stuff I needed was already in my basement.

 

 

 

 

 

I'm going out tomorrow and see if just the center retainer is enough to keep the back plate in place. if not, then I'll just add a couple 90 degree draw latches/ arm latches to the drum.

 

 

 

other thing I found is that if you load the feed tower first with 3 shells, that will keep the inner drum propped, so you can drop the rest of the shells in the inner drum.

Edited April 9, 2013 by Matthew Hopkins

[gunfun 3,931]

Good thread.

 

I tried this out the other day. I would want the smallest possible knob on the cover, if I were to do this mod permanently.

 

My only major concern is this. I like to be able to drop my magazines in a quick reload. The screws and dust cover distribute shock throughout the whole shell. Taking the screws out reduces the overall strength of the drum.

 

That and I have no problem loading the drum fairly quickly anyway, and I see maybe about 20 seconds estimated time savings.

[corbin 621]

Interesting idea, but I too wonder how removing the screws will affect the durability of the back plate when dropped.

[Cbass 23]

Gun Fun,

 

I had thought about the durability issue. I think the only thing I am actually worried about is the handle breaking off that I chose for this project.

 

In retrospect I would have chosen a handle that is slightly more flat and probably held down with 4 screws. Or even a very small knob would work. It is only to get the plate out since it sticks in there tight. For me the time reloading was just a bonus, feeding the shells through the throat of the magazine is just frustrating at best. Maybe I haven't done it enough times and I am just too inpatient

 

Anyways thanks for everyone's feedback. I just wanted to share with the community since you all have been helping me out when I needed it.

Edited April 10, 2013 by Cbass

[Matthew Hopkins 1,065]

UPDATE, I went out today and tested the drum . with just the center retainer in the drum and no screws, it won't work. the shells push out the back plate, due to the recoil of the SG, and causes the drum to jam up.

 

so I screwed in 3 screws, one of either side of the drum and one at the bottom, and left the center retainer out, and fired it again, and that worked fine, it cycled and fired all the shells without a hitch.

 

Now, my next mod I'm going to go with is adding 2- toggle draw latches to the drum, one of either side, like on the Chinese style AK drum, and possibly go with a hinge on the bottom, but I have to experiment around with that concept.

Edited April 11, 2013 by Matthew Hopkins

[Cbass 23]

Bummer

 

If I had ammo to test I guess I would have figure that out! Thanks for giving a go though sir.

 

Is the spring assembly not actually part of the drum then? I thought it was molded into the housing from looking at it initially. I really despise the current method of loading shells so I am looking for anyway to make it better/faster/easier.

 

 

 

 

 

Edit: sprint=spring

Edited April 11, 2013 by Cbass

[Matthew Hopkins 1,065]

Is the spring assembly not actually part of the drum then? I thought it was molded into the housing from looking at it initially.

 

the spring housing, metal tube in the red circle, is attached to the inner drum, it's not attached to the body of drum housing at all, it's all one piece. once you unwind the inner drum, there is a small "e" clip that keeps the inner drum on that spindle, once you take that off, you can lift the entire inner drum out along with the spring housing, then you'll see a long spring.

 

 

it's important to note what position the top ( the slot where the follower goes in) of the inner drum is in relation to the drum housing, ie. 3 O'clock, 4 O'clock etc.... so when you set the inner drum back in, the top is in the same position where it was originally. there are 6 holes on the top of spring housing where the end of the spring goes into, and there is only one slot on the bottom of the drum house where the end of the other end of the spring goes in.

 

it's really a simple constructed drum, unlike the inner drums of a BETA DRUM. now, that one is a bit more complicated, there are pieces and parts that have to go in a certain way.

Edited April 11, 2013 by Matthew Hopkins