bcmsaiga 8 Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 i just installed my flat style bullet guide i got from carolina shooter supply and on the last round if i go to feed it with my fingers (with the bolt carrier out of the gun) the round jams right below the opening of the chamber but if i rack the action it will cycle the last round. sometimes if cycled with the bolt (the last round) it will mess up the tip of the bullet a bit. anybody have issues with this? do i need to try a different bullet guide from somewhere else like dinzag or should i try and make a space for it or something. it just seems it needs to be a couple thous higher or something. this is in my saiga 5.45x39. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tundra1 391 Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 Talk to Greg at CSS before you do anything. Very knowledgeable stand up guy. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SmilinEd 364 Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 (edited) Bcm, Did you watch their vid when you installed maybe just go over each step again, and make the call tmrw Edited November 3, 2014 by SmilinEd Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SmilinEd 364 Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 Saiga mags...??? 6 min on the vid talks about some dressing of 5.45 mags ..??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bcmsaiga 8 Posted November 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 i watched that video a couple years ago. i do have the cutout for the flat bullet guide it just appears to be deeper than some i guess. i got my heat gun out heated it to bust the red loc tite, then i cut a piece of aluminum can to fit as a shim and it seemed to help some but still but hand feeding it wants to nose dive some. but if i lightly cycle the bolt (without the spring in) it picks the round right up. would you guys trust this to your life or as a shtf weapon? i red loc tited it back in. if i have to remove it to try a different bullet guide i can just re heat it with the heat gun-------_-will it hurt my saiga to use the heat gun to bust the red loc tite? i didnt heat it too much but it did feel warm when i was done but not so hot i couldnt touch it? thanks for the help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 (edited) If the rifle cycles on its own to the last round, there is no problem. Does it cycle the last round in the mag when you're shooting it? If so, stop worrying. Most semi auto rifles are not meant to slowly chamber a round by hand, especially AKs. Want to simulate the action of the rifle? Pull the bolt carrier fully back and let go. Edited November 3, 2014 by mancat Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bcmsaiga 8 Posted November 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 k then i am good to go. does it hurt the rifle to heat up with heat gun to remove red loc tited screw. i had to to put the aluminum can shim under it. then i re applied the red loctite? you think it will hold with the aluminum can shim? thanks a lot fellas. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tundra1 391 Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 Does the rifle not heat up when you fire it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 I would suggest removing the aluminum shim - potential for galvanic corrosion. 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bcmsaiga 8 Posted November 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 what would that do? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spikester 93 Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 Dissimilar metals like steel and aluminum bolted together corode each other. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JESS1344 508 Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 BCM, ON THE ROUND BULLET GUIDE GUN IN THE VIDEO, YOU WILL OBSERVE A BIT OF A RAMP JOB DONE ON THE EDGE OF THE CHAMBER, BETWEEN ABOUT 4:45 AND ABOUT 6:30. IF YOUR CHAMBER LACKS THAT, THAT MAY BE YOUR PROBLEM. I'VE NEVER MESSED WITH A 5.45 GUN, BUT ON ALL MY 7.62X39 GUNS, I'VE HAD TO DO A RAMP JOB, AS SEEN IN THE VID, TO GET THEM TO FEED HOLLOW POINTS. THE ONLY EXCEPTION WAS MY SGL 21-76, WHICH CAME NICELY RAMPED FROM THE FACTORY. LOOK IN THE AREA INDICATED, AND SEE IF YOU CAN SEE COPPER SMEARS FROM THE BULLET NOSES IMPACTING. THAT'LL TELL YOU ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW. JESS1344 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BigChongus 765 Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 I ended up making my own. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bcmsaiga 8 Posted November 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 Ya that sounds great. So is it safe to ramp it like that? I mean will the chamber still support the case. Kind of like Glock 40 cals. or any Glock for that matter.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JESS1344 508 Posted November 4, 2014 Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 BCM, JUST DON'T GET CARRIED AWAY WITH THAT DREMEL; SLOW AND EASY. I USE EITHER ONE OF THE CONICAL MEDIUM GRIT RUBBER CRATEX TIPS OR CRATEX FLAT DISCS. I GRIND THE POINTED TIP OFF THE CONICAL TIP, AGAINST A FILE OR PIECE OF COARSE SANDPAPER, UNTIL I GET A NICELY ROUNDED TIP ABOUT 7/16" WIDE. I PUT THE GUN IN A PADDED VICE, MUZZLE DOWN, AND CLAMP DOWN ON THE FRONT TRUNNION, JUST ENOUGH TO HOLD IT SECURELY. I FLIP THE REAR SIGHT FORWARD, OUT OF THE WAY, AND GO IN FROM THE 12 O'CLOCK POSITION, AND JUST ROLL THAT ROUNDED TIP BACK AND FORTH ACROSS THE CHAMBER EDGE, IN THE AREA INDICATED. GO SLOW, STOPPING EVERY SO OFTEN TO CLEAN UP THE GUN, FROM ALL THE RUBBER DUST, ETC., AND CHECK YOUR FEEDING, WATCHING FOR THE TELL-TALE COPPER SMEARS ON THE CHAMBER EDGE, AS WELL AS DAMAGE TO THE BULLET TIPS. I USE THE FLAT DISCS IN THE SAME MANNER; I REDUCE THE DIAMETER TO ABOUT 7/16" AGAINST A FILE, AND RUB THE EDGE OF THE DISC BACK AND FORTH ACROSS THE CHAMBER EDGE. THE CRATEX TIPS AND DISCS ARE COLOR-CODED FOR WHAT GRIT THEY ARE, I'D USE A MEDIUM GRIT TO REMOVE THE MATERIAL YOU WANT OFF, AND THEN A FINE TO POLISH THE AREA SMOOTH AS GLASS. A DAB OF BROWNELLS OXPHO-BLUE WILL PUT THE BLUE BACK ON, IF YOU DON'T WANT TO LEAVE IT SHINY. SLOW AND EASY, OK? JESS1344 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sim_Player 1,939 Posted November 5, 2014 Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 (edited) I noticed on mine that the cartridge front edge is slowing removing material from my bullet guide. I'm just going to allow it to break itself in. No FTF, unless I let the bolt close slow (typical of AKs). If you let the bolt forward easy, the extractor claw won't ride over the cartridge rim, stopping the bolt lugs from locking. A heatgun shouldn't hurt the receiver (the receiver gets extremely hot during rapid fire, without problems) but, a small propane torch might focus the heat better. Edited November 5, 2014 by Sim_Player Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bcmsaiga 8 Posted November 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 Cool thanks a lot for that tip. I think I will just shoot 500 rounds then check it again. It isnt really mashin up the tip of the bullet that bad anymore. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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