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Stock saiga FCG replacement...


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I ordered some compliance parts from Dinzag which arrived today, (BTW Dinzag is awesome.) and rushed to put them into my 20" .223. I'm still waiting on a drill press, so I haven't put in the bullet guide or replaced the piston yet.. all in due time.

My idea is to make compliance with the standard saiga buttstock, so I ordered a piston ground to fit and a Tapco G2 FCG which has the trigger milled off. Everything is polished and the hammer is shortened on the right side to accomodate the BHO. I got the two pins out and the saftey as well (no drilling required- nor would drilling those pins do anything but screw your gun up) after I got the retaining wire to let go (use a very fine nosed needlenose pliers- I ground mine down to an almost sharp point) and also the BHO popped right out. I put the new modified G2 trigger and disconector back in and fumbled with the BHO for about 20 minutes. The trick is to put some string or dental floss through the loop in the spring, and pull the string down through the BHO hole... sooner or later you will get the pin to go through the trigger and the loop, then just remove the string (so dont tie a knot in it, just loop it through). So I managed to get the new modified FCG back in completely, using the original retaining wire, so without any drilling, filling, cutting or modification to the reciever. I did goof up and leave the saftey out, so I'll have to try again later, If I remember Iw ill take reference pictures.

I have to say that the difference between the stock FCG and the modfied G2 is HUGE! I estimate the old pull weight at 7 or 8 lbs or so) There is no creep anymore and the pull is now an estimated 3 to 4 lbs! It feels even lighter than a Norinco Hunter (about 5lbs) and almost no travel, its very crisp. It is really an excellent trigger and I really want to thank Dinzag for providing it. I WOULD RECOMEND THIS TO EVERYONE. If you don't plan on going to a pistol grip, and even if you don't want to use hicaps, this modfied G2 FCG is a major upgrade to your trigger. There are no modifications to your gun, you can go back to the old FCG if for some reason you wanted to (which you won't), and I'm sure the reduced pull weight and creep will be appreciated by all. THANK YOU DINZAG.

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Well, the camera is out of batteries, so no pics, but I did get the whole thing back together as stated. Theres a lot of fumbling around involved, first wth the BHO- which was much easier this time, then with the hammer spring. I had a bit of trouble with one end of the spring ctaching the safety as I manuevered it in, but eventualy got it. It seems that now with the new hammer my bolt and carrier catch on it as I have heard described- (when riding the bolt slowly- the hammer catches it and may even stop it in place- however a sharp jolt will dislodge it) It makes using the BHO a bit harder to do, since the bolt/carrier catches just before the BHO would and I have to take my hand off the BHO to urge it forward. No matter, I'm sure in time it will clear up, or I will polish the hammer a bit more if it doesn't. The trigger pull is now VERY CRISP AND LIGHT, and is a an absolute joy to experience. I must credit DINZAG once again for his excellent work and service. Now to set up that drill press.

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Run it & gun it. I removed the casting/mim ridge on the hammer & polished, but you may want to do the bottom of the carrier. Once it's broke in it will really smooth up.

 

Thanks! :up: glad you are happy with it.

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  • 3 months later...
Well, the camera is out of batteries, so no pics, but I did get the whole thing back together as stated. Theres a lot of fumbling around involved, first wth the BHO- which was much easier this time, then with the hammer spring. I had a bit of trouble with one end of the spring ctaching the safety as I manuevered it in, but eventualy got it. It seems that now with the new hammer my bolt and carrier catch on it as I have heard described- (when riding the bolt slowly- the hammer catches it and may even stop it in place- however a sharp jolt will dislodge it) It makes using the BHO a bit harder to do, since the bolt/carrier catches just before the BHO would and I have to take my hand off the BHO to urge it forward. No matter, I'm sure in time it will clear up, or I will polish the hammer a bit more if it doesn't. The trigger pull is now VERY CRISP AND LIGHT, and is a an absolute joy to experience. I must credit DINZAG once again for his excellent work and service. Now to set up that drill press.

 

So I just finished installing my new trigger group. Is this really normal, and can I shoot the gun like this? It seems like it will work fine and that it will probably smooth out after a while, however, I'm new to rifles and want to make sure it's really OK...

 

Thanks

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So I just finished installing my new trigger group. Is this really normal, and can I shoot the gun like this? It seems like it will work fine and that it will probably smooth out after a while, however, I'm new to rifles and want to make sure it's really OK...

This is quite common with new Tapco G2 sets. As dinzag says above: "Run it and gun it" and it'll break in.

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I decided to give it a bit of help. Using pictures provided by gunnysmith as a guide, I pulled out some sharpening stones and smoothed out some of the trigger connection points. While I was at it, I also lapped the bottom of the bolt carrier. I did sort of a half-assed job, afraid to grind too much off. Once I take it back to the range, I expect there will be some new wear marks to direct me as I finish the job.

 

The new G2 single hook seemed to be better/easier/smoother than the stock Saiga trigger. After I lapped and polished the connection points, it was even better. I was a little concerned that I would screw things up, but the availability and reasonable price of a replacement trigger eased my fears. The trigger still has a little bit of "stiction" to it right at the beginning of the pull, but I'm sure I'll get that smoothed out before long.

 

Thanks guys

 

Edit:

Oh yeah, I forgot this one. The trigger kit was missing the small spring. I needed something in there to make it work (just to make sure I didn't screw-up the assembly), so I ripped one out of a ball point pen :rolleyes: As it was not a mil-spec pen, I'm calling Tapco today to get a new one.

Edited by Cavediver
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Oh yeah, I forgot this one. The trigger kit was missing the small spring. I needed something in there to make it work (just to make sure I didn't screw-up the assembly), so I ripped one out of a ball point pen :rolleyes: As it was not a mil-spec pen, I'm calling Tapco today to get a new one.
You are supposed to pull the old disconnector spring from your original trigger group, and reuse it. Please do so, as the ballpoint pen spring just ain't the right way to go.
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You are supposed to pull the old disconnector spring from your original trigger group, and reuse it.

 

Really? I tried to disassemble the old trigger, but I could not get that sleeve out. Do you have any helpful hints? I'll go back through my research material and see what I can find.

 

Please do so, as the ballpoint pen spring just ain't the right way to go.

 

Yeah, I'll have it replaced before I take it to the range. I just needed a temporary fix to check function. No way I'd shoot it without replacing that spring :o

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Really? I tried to disassemble the old trigger, but I could not get that sleeve out. Do you have any helpful hints? I'll go back through my research material and see what I can find.
It's just a big roll pin, look at it, find the side with the smaller appearance and use a flat headed punch to knock it out.
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Really? I tried to disassemble the old trigger, but I could not get that sleeve out. Do you have any helpful hints? I'll go back through my research material and see what I can find.
It's just a big roll pin, look at it, find the side with the smaller appearance and use a flat headed punch to knock it out.

I tried a plain punch with no success. I had to resort to a nail set to bend the flanges of the pin inward a little. While the original pin is trashed, I was able to get it out and recover the spring.

 

Thanks for the advice! I looked over the tutorial that I had printed out, it appears I missed the page with these same instructions. :rolleyes:

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