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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/28/2019 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    Here are photos of my S308 barrel threading to M17x1 adventure! I started by removing SGM bolt on break (which I'm selling in the classifieds) to expose the front sight block. I then knocked out the pins and used my makeshift aluminum punch (.410 snap cap) to knock the front sight off the barrel. I then bored out the back of the front sight by .04" by going around with a dremel grinding stone. I know it's not precision work, but it's just the front sight and it's an AK. In hindsight, I would have sent it to Dinzag to have it done because of the fast turnaround time and the hardware he includes (3mm drill bit and pins). Oh well - DIY is more fun Measuring inside of front sight. The step in the bbl was .687". When I tapped sight back on, it fit nice and snug. I then reamed sight holes to 1/8" using a cobalt bit. I used 1/8" roll pins from Brownells which fit in just right (went in easy with 4oz hammer). I then ground down excess. Now it's off to threading with tools from Dinzag! Starting the threading with the thread alignment tool (TAT) installed and using CLP as cutting fluid, which worked pretty well. Remember to go slow and turn the die stock ~1/8th of a turn at most (when you start feeling resistance), then back off to break the chips - re-apply cutting oil - repeat. After you get ~4 good threads, it's time to remove the TAT (per instructions from Dinzag) then continue as before. Remember to thread the die caarefully over the threads you just cut. Keep going until the die is ~1/16" from the sight base. Don't go any further because you can booger up all the threads you just cut (sorry for the blurriness in the photos). Then clean off any chips and go over it again with the die to make sure the threads are clean. Do a test fit with your muzzle device. If it is too tight, then you will need to cut deeper threads. Tighten the screw on the die 1/2 turn, then repeat above procedure with oil and breaking off chips as you go. Test fit again, if device is still not screwing on smoothly - repeat! I had to do this twice for my 74 break. Finished product at the range. I reamed out a YHM AR10 crush washer to 17mm using a cone grinding bit. I also used red loctite for extra security. Sighting in Tru glo 4x scope using Tula 150 grain FMJ ammo at 100 yards. Took almost a full 20 rd mag to get centered. I would like to run some high quality brass through her to see what she's really capable of. Overall, I am happy with my conversion and always find it rewarding working on my own weapons. The 74 break does tame recoil nicely, but there is still a nice fireball. The SGM break did tame both the recoil and the muzzle flash, but it made the weapon too front heavy for my taste.
  2. 1 point
    Consider taking it to a gunsmith and having the barrel lathe threaded. With a 16" barrel you only get one chance to do it right, and if you ever want to mount a suppressor, you will kick yourself if you used the redneck DIY method described in the above posts. OBTW a suppressor really makes the 16" .308 much more pleasant to shoot. True story... Last year I was shooting my .308 for groups with the can on, and the guy at the next bench over asked if that was a silencer. I said that it was, and he said "doesn't seem to be doing much good." So I took it off, and fired a group unsuppressed. The next words out of his mouth were "Holy %$^& that thing is loud!" Then I put the can back on and finished my shooting with no further commentary from the peanut gallery.
  3. 1 point
    Rock on man. Thanks for write up. I like how you widened out the back of the rear sight so you didn't have to re-profile the shoulder on the barrel. I just converted mine. Used the Strike Industries stock adapter and the new Magpul SL K stock, to keep the length adjustability range tight and the butt small like a traditional AK stock. ALG Defense trigger is 3.5 pounds. I think that I'll do the thread job you did. Good stuff.
  4. 1 point
    Good luck on removing it. Hopefully you won't have as much trouble as I am having with mine. I already gave the 20 ton press a try on mine, and it didn't budge at all. Let us know if and how you end up getting it, as I'd really like to know. I'm worried if I apply too much pressure to mine I'll end up bending the barrel or something, but I don't know what kind of force is required to accomplish that...
  5. 1 point
    Never mind. I just looked at the instructions for the Saiga 308 FSB removal on Dinzag's website. I didn't realize that there was a muzzle cap on the front of the base. That is what I was looking at where it meets the base proper.
  6. 1 point
    No solder on mine, removed pins and pounded off
  7. 1 point
    Mine wasnt soldered on but heat will help with removal. I didnt need to use a press. I was able to twist and tap it off with a plastic mallet after removing the pins. There was alot of paint that makes it look soldered
  8. 1 point
    Nicely done, I did the same a few months ago and put the same muzzle brake on. I wish I would of seen this post before I did it. I had a hell of a time putting the FSB back on and I had to pound the crap out of the original FSB pins. When I shot it the aim was off. I don't use a scope so I had to get a front sight tool to sight it in. I think I put it on a cunt hair crooked but it shoots great now. I did notice the 74 muzzle break was louder, but recoil was reduced.
  9. 1 point
    Question: what prevents you from using the original FSB pins in the new hole and original hole to re-mount the FSB?
  10. 1 point
    You're welcome! Best of luck and hope it goes smoothe!
  11. 1 point
    You presented a very nice technical piece and have motivated me to get the tools to thread my 308. I have been looking at the misplaced fsb on it for almost nine years. Thanks.
  12. 1 point
    Thanks for this post. It made me brave enough to just go ahead and do mine. I was going to send it out, but after reading this post I went for it with the little dremel sanding wheel. I needed to bore the back .45" out an additional .025". I went slow and measured many times. Pounded it back on with a rubber mallet, re-set the original pins, and viola! Of course I also fixed the slight cant of the factory front sight install. Thanks again! I saved a little cash and now feel smart enough to fix the cant on the front sight of my other AK.
  13. 1 point
    Has anyone attempted to trim back the dust cover opening where the brass is hitting on the .308? I thought about padding the edge or buying something to fit the edge of the opening but it seems that the brass would still fly out 10-20 feet forward as it does now. I would prefer to have the brass miss the dust cover all together and land behind me. I saw a SCAR .308 throwing brass in that fashion and didn't see any problem with it. With that said I thought about using a Dremel tool and cutting back the ejection slot in quarter inch increments until the brass behaved the way I wanted and didn't damage it during ejection. Any ideas or experience with doing something like that?
  14. 1 point
    I second, Indy's response. I reload my brass the dented cases are not an issue. I believe they would be if they were going back into a precision bolt gun. I can't document any difference in performance from the AK based on the dent vs. non-dented case. They also shoot just fine out of my daughter's custom Winchester Model 88 (lever action).
  15. 1 point
    I solved my denting problem but it ain't cheap. Google a Valmet Ejection Port buffer. Expensive but it does work well. here it is: http://www.robertrtg.com/valmetbuffer.html
  16. 1 point
    The dented cases do reload fine, just be sure to examine all brass closely, magnification helps, for cracks. But that's just good practice anyway, only takes a few seconds. The more brass is "stressed" the fewer times it will stand up to sizing, which is why neck sizing only for bolties yields longer brass life, less stress. If the denting is reducing the life of the brass then reducing the denting would logically be advisable. The door trim reduced but did not eliminate the issue. As I said it all reloads anyway just ALWAYS check your brass at each reload. BTW I made a brass catcher out of a minnow net that works real well. Just copy the design of one those they will charge you $60 for. Got $10 in mine. Shooting stuff is fun, reloading just makes it more so.
  17. 1 point
    i didnt bother to even mess with mine at all... the brass reloads just fine. ( As long as I can find it... at my range there are a lot of dried leaves where my brass gets flung ) Little dent in the side of the case comes right out when full length resizing... And if it doesnt... it will when the cartridge goes off... LOL I would leave it alone... you will wind up grinding it away and HATE the way it looks after you are done, and then be like "awww fuck... why did I have to fuck with it?!?!?! "
  18. 1 point
    Wow - thanks for all your kind remarks - I hope this will be a help to anyone wanting to thread their bbl.
  19. 1 point
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  21. 1 point
    I see enough questions about threading the .308, that this should be pinned by one of the Mods to the .308 thread... (hint, hint Indy, Drew, ETC...) Great Job - BTW! Macbeau sends...
  22. 1 point
    +1, looks like ya have done a few in the past.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Very nice job on the rifle and write up.
  25. 1 point
    No problem: It attaches to the reciever cover at the rear most point of the ejection port, where it curves down and becomes the bolt handle slot.
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