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Paladin_Hammer

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Everything posted by Paladin_Hammer

  1. Best. Post. Here. All you need are the Shoty-Saiga's and you'd win my undying loyalty as a fan.
  2. On UTG Rails, BE CAREFUL. Do NOT, repeat, DO NOT tighten those screws after they give the slightest resistance! I burned a UTG side rail last year, completely stripped the threading on one hole (not the screw, the rail). It never held zero after that. If you want an undoubtable rail-system for the AK platform, Texas Weapon Systems is what you are looking for. However, for one of those you could buy either a SKS or put a hefty payment toward another Saiga. So depending on the level of certainty your looking for, either take good care of the UTG rail or be prepared to cry when your writing t
  3. Maybe I forgot, but I just read here in the "DSA for Saiga .308" thread that Izhmash was going bankrupt! This kind of shocked me. Really, Izhmash, the factory of Mikhail, birthplace of the AK-pattern rifle, BANKRUPT?! Then I found this: http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2009/10/08/breaking-news-izhmash-is-not-insolvent-and-operations-will-continue-as-normal/ If I'm reading this right, a creditor to Izhmash went bust, and tried to recover it's loses by closing Izhmash down or something. But apparently it's not going tits up. EDIT: Translating this website into English go
  4. I assume Izhmash made the Saiga... I thought they made all of them. Magazines are 20 round capacity. He says it's the 20" barrel, although he's never measured it that's what the store he bought it from said. No modification. Was supposed to be a project and just never happened.
  5. I've got a line on a .308. Need to know this: Is $500 to much for a .308? The guy selling his factory-stock .308 has five and wants to get rid of them with the rifle. So he raised the price overall. I've shopped around and apparently these are roughly forty each. That means it's roughly $200 for the magazines. Therefor, his Saiga itself is $500. He's asking $650 for all of it. So am I getting a deal or can you find Saiga .308's cheaper than $500 somewhere?
  6. I could have sworn there was a picture in either this or the .223 picture(s) thread that had someone who bought a US-made Galil style front sight. Thanks for the ACE tip. I completely forgot about them.
  7. I did away with that .308 I posted a couple of months ago. I went ahead and measured it's barrel to find that the guy had actually shortened it to 18". I wanted a 22", for the extra muzzle velocity. So now I've got a line on another, this time FACTORY STOCK, Saiga .308. I've decided I want to convert it to a Galil-style rifle. You know with the front sight on the gas-block and such. I'll use a Texas Weapons Systems scope mount and attach a rear peep sight. Problem is I've been to KVAR and to Tapco, and I can't find what I'm looking for! Converison parts, yes. Galil sights and gas block
  8. Damn some of you for having more money than me... Grr... Nice rilfe SenatorCongressman.
  9. Vermiform, please re-post your picture but much, much smaller.
  10. Well if accuracy is an issue, then I'd take the M1A. I know, I have ancestors who made the claim, that the M14 easily put rounds within a palm sized area. Meanwhile, so many people bag on the Saiga for it's accuracy that I'm kind of curious what will happen when I finally pick up that .308 and take it to the range.
  11. Desert Dog (member here), claims to have made an MOA accurate Saiga .308. When you see the work he put into one (check pictures post), you start to wonder if it could be possible. He put a lot of work into that thing.
  12. SCORE!!!!!!!!! After telling him that I wouldn't buy it if the muzzle brake was really welded to it, he promised to remove it before I buy it! He's going to heat it up and remove it tonight. He also is going to sand off the paint on the gas piston to at least make it more uniform, for ten bucks I can put a decent coat of something on it. I think. What exactly do they paint firearms with? Would it cost more than twenty bucks? I'm just looking to re-do the gas piston mind you, the rest will come later. What do you guys think I should do with it once I pick it up? He's had it for near
  13. He said it's welded. But looking at it, and once I felt it, it's hard to tell if it wasn't just threaded on there. It does not feel welded, and it doesn't look welded. Therefor, could it just be some bad threads? Either way I have till Friday to buy it or he sells it to the next guy in line.
  14. Update here: I managed to get some pictures of the insides. I took them myself when I told him I wanted an expert to look at them. Of course I don't actually know a real-life Saiga expert, so I'm going to let you guys be the judge here. Below will be 12 (yes, 12) pictures of the rifle in question. The insides. The insides without the recoil spring. Here is something disturbing. The gas piston is missing a lot of paint. He said that he painted it and that it's come off since then. Not a good sign. Finally the whole rifle. So what do you guys think?
  15. You can _try_ to grind it off, but this falls back to the problem of how badly did the dbag who's selling it to you already fuck up the rifle. I'd rather spend the money on something I know isn't an absolute piece of shit and build it out myself. I understand that you're getting some compliance parts, but honestly, it sounds like you're buying a Ford Pinto with some fancy rims and spray paint. If you're really considering buying that rifle, I'd HIGHLY recommend taking it to a gunsmith before hand and having it inspected. If the seller won't allow it, tell him to shove off. All good
  16. Is there anyway to remove that brake without welding or band-sawing? Could I just try and grind it off? Or is that too risky?
  17. Is that new with a PG, G2 Trigger and all other manner of 922® compliance?
  18. I've got a line on a .308. Here is what it has: US Made Pistol Grip and Buttstock. G2 Trigger. US made gas piston. So it is 922® compliant. It comes with two factory magazines. Issues: He Krylon painted the forward grip, pistol grip, and buttstock. He also drilled holes in the forward grip to vent it. There is a muzzle brake that looks to have been welded on (which is unusual since I don't live in Massganistan or the PRK). The welded on brake looks to be improperly aligned, and while it does not block the barrel, it does look bubba'd. The whole setup will cost me $500. Is this a go
  19. He's not by any chance getting into a business now is he?
  20. To buy a Krebs means to have at least $300 in spare change laying around (shipping and everything). USED Saiga's with a PG conversion are going for around $500 in KC right now. So to add a Krebs would mean to spend half of the cost of the gun, in just the scope.\ Any Texas Weapons Systems owners here? Maybe someone who owns both?
  21. Heh, I have a UTG side-mount for my x39. It CAN hold zero, but this is assuming I have three working screws for it. I had to drill out one of the holes and am now using a bolt to hold it on. It's as solid as it's going to get, but every two magazines or so I can remove the bolt and screws and push it a little ways forward. If the comparatively light recoil of the x39 does that, imagine what a .308 would do! Hence why I'm looking at a Beryl style mount.
  22. They say that it holds zero no matter the number of rounds being shot, and that it's the best way to put a scope on your Saiga. All we know is, it's called the "Beryl". In the picture post for the .308's it seems like more and more of you are using "Beryl" style scope mounts. So can anyone give me a full low-down on these? Who makes the best in your opinion? What's the difference between a Kreb's and a Texas Weapon Systems? Are the $70 DPH arms mounts just as good as the $150 Krebs? Need to know, I may have a shot at a .308 Saiga. Knowing that it will certainly recoil harder than an
  23. GIJeff, out of all the people you DON'T want to tell that barrel whip doesn't exist or doesn't effect accuracy, it's Darth AKSarben. He's got the results with his Saiga .223 to prove that ammunition and barrel whip DO have an extreme effect on accuracy. I doubt you have ever seen a Saiga do under and inch at 100 yards, well AK DarthSarben has, his handloading and work on his Saiga .223 reduced the very resonance you doubt exist/affects accuracy. It's just physics dude. Vibrations caused from the exploding powder will resonate throughout the rifle, including the barrel. The reason it doesn't br
  24. Nailoth would tell you this, but he's AWOL according to other web-sites. Saiga's are really, REALLY picky on the ammo they eat. All AK's probably are, but most of us will tell you, and I know for a fact, that they will require some Indian Jones style exploration to find the "right" ammunition. I've finally settled on Remington's 123 grain 7.62x39 for my Saiga, and that was after it seemingly puked out on me (in reality, my scope refused to return to zero ). So just keep searching for that sweet stuff. There is enough reloading equipment and information out there that certainly yo
  25. There is another shop that used to do $20 FFL's south of Kansas City. But it's an hour and a half to get there if I don't have traffic. So a three hour round trip for a .223 Saiga? F*ck that. Anyway, I did find a used one in a pawn shop in KCK today. $390 for a 7.62x39. So they are coming down, but for an unconverted I don't think I'll be buying one at that price. Anyone tell me what their state, city, town, etc is like?
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