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    Junior fan
  • Birthday 07/12/1963

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  1. I've been waiting for a Molot Style AK Grip for a month now. ​emailed, no response.
  2. I saw this on another forum I got a email from RWC today in response to a parts availability question. They said in 3-6 months they will have U.S. made saiga 12 bolts and other parts, including factory spec mags that are made here in the USA. They are starting with the S12 but will add more for the other calibers (because I asked about my 410 also)
  3. I used to know Mr. Kittinger back when my dad and I had a lawn service. we took care of his lawn. really nice guy. he was a skywriter at the time. and it was always cool to watch him work. "Rosie O’Grady’s Flying Circus was the official “airline” of Church Street Station and consisted of six classic planes, gas balloons and hot-air balloons. The skies above Orlando were always entertaining with Joe Kittinger and Bob Snow’s skywriting and banner towing." http://snow-and-associates.com/css.htm
  4. http://iccmfg.com/saiga.html thinking about short barrel and keeping the original barrel for spare.
  5. saw this on another board. On January 14, the administration of Kalashnikov Concern signed the agreement with the United States and Canada to deliver 200,000 AK rifles to the countries annually. According to Kalashnikov press secretary Elena Filatova, "on 14 January, in the framework Shot Show 2014, Concern Kalashnikov, which is a part of State Corporation Rosteh, and Russian Weapon Company (RWC) signed an exclusive agreement to supply the products of Izhevsk gunsmiths in the U.S. and Canada. in accordance with the terms of the agreement, RWC acquired an exclusive right to supply Baikal and Izhmash sporting and hunting weapons to the U.S. and Canada. The rifles are produced under the brand name Kalashnikov. The volume of exported weapons will range from 80 to 200 thousand pieces per year. Earlier, spokespeople for Kalashnikov mentioned an opportunity to deliver such volumes ot weapons to the United States and Canada. Under the contract, the concern will conduct warranty servicing to the products.
  6. No you are just insecure. I was directing my comments at the guy named conscript who said, I am not a mechanic, but here is what you need to do. This is why you guys are just so freaking funny!!!!! Jack apparently, and not a very good reader. my apologies Jack I thought I was the only one suggesting a leak down test. John
  7. that's why i suggest checking if you have free play in your throttle cable. none can cause no or intermittent spark and its easy to check and adjust. look it up in that manual i sent you.
  8. I’m assuming you are directing this rant at me. Lets break it down. It is funny, people say, I am not a motorcycle mechanic but here is what you need to do:) Yea its funny, I never said I wasn’t a motorcycle tech. lol Again, ANYONE who is a professional mechanic will do a compression check FIRST. It’s the first real test I suggested to do "first". I am a factory trained Mercury Outboard mechanic/Tech and Harley Davidson Mechanic/Tech. I’m a factory trained Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Bombardier motorcycle, atv, pwc tech You DO NOT need to do a leak down test, You DO NOT need to do anything if you don’t want to. since a compression test will give you all the info you need to know I disagree. Compression test will only let you know that something is generally wrong if compression is low. A leak down test(I have done many) when used on a cylinder with low compression is going to have a high percentage of leakage. You can hear the air escaping: If it’s the rings/piston/cylinder you will be able to hear it through the removed oil cap(crankcase). Exhaust valves - through the exhaust pipe, intake valves – through the throttle body, head gasket/cracked cylinder – coolant coming out from radiator with cap removed. You don’t have to use this tool just to check if your cylinders are at 8 or 10% leak down on a race bike. It can be a quick way to get an idea what the problem may be before tearing it down.or if you even have to do a tear down. Everything you recommend I recommended also. And in the same order. So many times I have worked on bikes brought in to the shop "to get running" find low compression. then, I found high leakage through the intake valves (using my leak down tester) and then turning out to be build up on the valve face/seats. Easy fix all you have to remove is the valve cover ant tap on the valves and you can actually watch the percentage of leakage decrease on the leak down tester gauge. Just a compression test wouldn't tell you that. at the initial trouble shooting sequence and anyone who recommends it has definitely not done one them self or they would know it is much more involved!!. We do leak down tests after every run on the drag bikes, but again, you do not need to do one if the compression is in range. Uhm.really.ok. I’m using it as a tool to quickly diagnose the problem of a cylinder that has already been determined to have low compression. i'm not really paying attention to the actual percentage number except that its a lot. I'm listening to where the air is escaping. You're using it to determine if your cylinder(s) are sealing optimally to determine when to freshen up yhe top end. If in fact you are actually racing competitively. Anyway, you have your way, I have mine. i just don’t think you should talk down to me. because, I use my tools a little differently than you. or don't understand that there is more than one way to use a leak down tester. If it is not, then check to make sure the cam timing has not jumped. This is very easy to do with a degree indicator wheel on the crank and bring the #1 Cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke, then check the position of the valves are completely closed, which is the easy way if you don't know about cam timing. If they are not, then the cam has jumped timing. Easy fix. Its actually easier than that. There are marks on the ignition rotor and the cam sprockets. all you have to do is line them up. the top of the piston is about 4 inches down a spark plug tunnel (hemi) with the frame and airbox an inch above the top of the valve cover. you can barely get your hand in there. you have to drop your spark plug socket down the tunnel add 2 short extensions one at a time just to remove the spark plugs. so id like to see you get a dial indicator in there with a 4+ inch extension on it. sorry, couldn't let this go unchallenged. John Then go to the next trouble shooting sequence. Jack
  9. 09 R6 here. Would like to get my hands on that if you are sharing i have 08. it's yours if you want it. i thought i had up to 2010 but not seeing it. it's probably 99% the same as 09 let me know if you want it
  10. something sounds strange. the injector pressure is high enough that after supplying fresh clean fuel to the system it should have no problem purging the bad gas out. and the fuel filter built into the fuel pump and the inline fuel filter should have kept debris out of the rail and injectors. have you had the fuel pressure tested? maybe new fuel pump bad? how about pressure and return lines mixed? also do you have any throttle cable free-play? no free-play can cause the ecm to kill the spark (safety feature, it actually allows you to check compression with out causing a fire) you should be able to rotate the throttle back and forth a little without any tension from the throttle return spring. check this first. what is the actual compression in psi for each cylinder? after finding low compression the next step should be a leak-down test for the cylinder(s) with low compression to determine what component(s) are not sealing. ex: rings, exhaust valves, intake valves. head gasket, cracked piston/cylinder. bump starting is not good. it can cause the flywheel key to shear throwing the flywheel timing off and ignition timing off. i would also check valve timing. when you say you replaced everything that had to do with the starting system. is that the starter motor and the relay? i don't know any codes that would indicate that. multiple problems are tough especially when it could be ecm and there is no test for that except testing all components connected including the wires to rule them out leaving the ecm to be at fault. or plugging a known good one. this probably doesn't help much. but you have to start with the basics: compression, spark, flywheel timing, valve timing, ignition timing. if it won't start or run on starting fluid its probably more than a fuel system problem. ​eta: forgot to mention i have the factory service manual in pdf i can give you. if you want it let me know. i will upload it to skydrive and send you a link
  11. I started using duck duck go https://duckduckgo.com/ (I know dumb name) and do not track me plug in http://fixtracking.com/ some additional info http://donttrack.us/ trying to break my google habit also fan
  12. yea, it could be a lot of things. but, i'll bet it was that point and shoot thing from kodak. if they release how much the check was for we might be able to determine what it was intended for And according to google: C283 = some sort of medication C383 = remote control or a “Floss Skein” CA83 = Helipad and welding hood CB83 = is a baseball bat CZ83 = pistol Even if it was for a CZ83, he was not old enough to purchase a handgun.
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