charger SE

Had the same prob trying to mount a tasco red dot. Got so frustrated I took it off and am sticking with irons for now. May try some sort of regular scope sometime. Mine is converted with a tapco folder.

I have the 20" model too. It seems that they are the fat chick of saigas. Most don't prefer the look, and try to avoid them, but theyre better than your hand. I used to get bent out of shape worrying that I had more "barrel whip" or wasnt as accurate as a 16" But the way I see it, and I'm no expert, most SKS's are the same length and no one complains about them. That being said, I would get the short one if I could do it over, but I was ignorant about Saigas when I got it. I cant afford to go back. Mine is my SHTF piece. I've toyed with cutting it down, but can't seem to take that p

Hi there under the sight you will see a thin leaf spring. This spring puts upward pressure on the sight to keep the little tits in the notches on the sides. What I did was get a big ass screwdriver and cover the end with duct tape to prevent damage. Push down on the rear of the sight in the pivot, or "tit" area, while applying a slight backward pressure. The goal is to push the tits down and out of the notches. Sorry for the term, but I don't know what else you call the little studs on the sides. Dont think anyone here is terribly offended. BTW, I literally had to climb on top of

Guide: 1" steel pipe nipple, cut in half lengthwise and trimmed/notched to fit. Screw: #6-40 (or the coarse thread version, #6-32) flat head, stainless steel, about 3/8 long. I think you get one more thread using the fine screw. Dont forget to use RED Loctite if you want the screw to be permanent. Some folks put a nut on the underside of the trunnion on the screw. I tried this but couldnt get the nut on. Just used red loctite. If you screw up the hole (take your time, you'll be fine) you could drill it out and possibly go to a #8 screw. Hope this helps.

I went through buttstock identity issues. First was the 10$ wood skeleton stock. Hmmm....NAH! Then (im embarrassed to admit this) assembled a collapsible monstrosity out of the telescoping stand of a junk ocillating fan using the sawed off reciever end of the factory stock, and lots of epoxy. (it actually worked, but was one of those "i just want to see if I can do it" things. Never left the house with it on there. WECSOG gone horribly wrong.

Never got to know him, but the guys around here seem to be good judges of character. A fine man, I'm sure. My condolences. charger

good point ace. Guess I didn't learn my lesson from the peep sight. (~Sigh~) I could be just getting carried away and wringin my hands over nothing. I seem to have run out of ideas for modifying/improving my rifle, it's just been such a fun project. Only other thing I could think of to do would be cut down the barrel and add a muzzle device of some sort, but not really worth the money or the trouble to me to save 4", besides the folding stock helps for storage and transport.

7.62x39, 20" bbl. Grabbin at straws, but I'd like to pick the brains of those here and see if there are some easy ways to improve the iron sights. I like the ruggedness of the stock system, but have always wondered if it can be improved upon. Short of painting the front post a bright color, i'm at a loss. I tried the Williams rear peep, but in all honesty it was truly a get what you pay for type of deal. Flimsy, chinsy. Popped off twice and had to adjust it out to the max (elevation thread ended up stripping). Looked goofy, and looked like the slightest bump would screw it up. Pu

just curious, can anyone tell me if the 20" sks barrel and the 20" siaga barrel are the same thickness, or if not whats the difference?

I've been toying with the idea of cutting and recrowning my 20" bbl (7.62x39) to a 16. Has anyone actually done this with success? some questions: is there a problem with chrome lining "flaking" or coming off at the cut site? can a new fsb, say a bulgy threaded one, be installed on the end with a brass hammer? (no access to press). Would another valid option be to cut the barrel off with the stock fsb still attached, take the cut off portion to a shop to be pressed off, then reinstall? is there a way to make sure the fsb is on straight? thanks.

my magic 8 ball says: "All signs point to NO!" I wouldn't.

If you don't want to mess with the shepard's crook (heard it can be troublesome), get a couple of 5/16" "E" type retaining rings, they snap in the pin grooves, real slick. Works like a charm

I suppose you could keep the original monte carlo stock, but I don't know how well egonomically it would work with the PG. (Might look goofy too, but thats subjective). If your part count is ok, you could replace it later. It's an easy US part to put on though.

Another thing I thought of, get cans of enamel (like Rustoleum), get one FLAT red and one FLAT royal blue, mix as desired to get the dark plum color you want. (I agree, its killer lookin furniture). I painted my truck with this stuff, its tough as leather. You might want to thin it about 20% with mineral spirits. Brush on with foam brush, a few light coats.

Ha ha, ya they really do make handy targets just pop 'em in the ground at the dump and stick your shoot n' see's on em! Local candidate, shot up my Bush one a long time ago

I see you are not in the US, so I'm not sure what brands of paint you have available to you, or where you would be buying them. Try the spray cans of "satin" (no gloss) paints for arts and crafts, furniture, ect. Lots of different colors and shades. As far as making it stick, rough up the surfaces with fine sand paper first, make sure they're free of grease and dirt (dont forget the oils on your skin!) No guarantee, but will go a long way in making the paint hold. good luck

BATFE guy: "oh yeah? PROVE you made it in the US!"

I attached mine to the mag catch a little differently. I used a small black button head (rounded) socket head cap screw (#8 i think) on the inside of the guard, and into the mag catch housing. Looks like the factory did it, nice and clean. I did it this way cause I had trouble drilling up inside the mag catch mechanism.

what helped me was printing out the pages of the sheik's conversion tutorial, and looking it over for a couple days before beginning. Helps to have the rifle there to compare to the photos, it makes a world of difference. Also, i recommend purchasing all you need and having all your tools (dremel, punches, ect.) BEFORE you begin. You wouldnt start cooking without all the ingredients, right? That way you dont have to stop partway through and wait on parts or tools to arrive. As for the hanguard, dont be afraid to get creative with the stock one. Drill it, cut it, whatever. Her

I have the 20" barrel model (converted). I havn't had much of a chance to try it out up to this point, just wanted to know, some of you that have had yours awhile, how do you like it? Any complaints or long term problems with the extra barrel length (accuracy/whip issues)? I tried a tasco red dot on mine with a side mount, but tyring to zero it i couldnt seem to hit a campaign sign at 50 yards, I had the barrel pointed so high just to see the dot. I adjusted the elevation to the max each way and it seemed not to matter I'm thinking of the williams peep sight now, would appreciate

Just saying hi to all of you, returning to the board after a long absence. You all were very helpful to me when I followed the sheik's conversion back in '04 and converted my baby. Hope to post some pics soon. Hope I can be of help to anyone else attempting the conversion.

Could you guys tell me if this is the dreaded "Belarus" mount? http://www.sportsmansguide.com/cb/cb.asp?a=208253 Thanks.

all I remember is the longer leg of the spring lays against the bottom "floor" of the reciever. There is some sort of notch on the BHO lever that the shorter leg sits in. Tension is applied to the spring (by pulling w/fishing line, or pushing down on spring w/a notched popcicle stick) to allow one of the reciever pins to go through the "eye" of the spring. Hope this helps.

akparts.com has a few economical wood stocks, skeleton style or the regular type. They ain't pretty, but they work. They're just made for a little truck bedliner paint

another option is to make a "tool" to acutally hold down the spring while you intall the pin, if the string/fishing line idea doesn't work well for you (it didn't for me). I made a "V" notch in the end of a popcicle stick to push down on the round part of the spring, holding it concentric with the pin hole in the reciever so I could put the pin in.