Darth AkSarBen

Don't use breakfee, or WD-40, or other 'cleaners'. Just use thread cutting oil. Menards, Lowes, Home Depot, etc should have this stuff. Thread cutting oil is not the same as motor oil either. It is designed to remove heat and suspend chips.

Worked at Boeing for a number of years as a grade IV drill press operator. Drilled and tapped thousands of holes. However, this is a different environment, meaning that most of the drill/tap setups were done on power machines, and yes they drilled and tapped with drill presses, but had certain attachements to them, to allow for reversal. If it's a thread THROUGH a hole, then a regular taper tap will do fine. If it's only going to a certain depth, then you need to use a bottom tap. They are different. However, you can start with the taper and then go to the bottom tap to finish. Yo

When I talked on the phone today I think a 1/4" drill bit, in the Mechanic Length would be around 10 dollars. It's 12% shorter than the jobber lenght drills and would be great for this. There was even a shorter drill, called the Tuff-Stub drill bit and it's 38% shorter than a jobber length drill bit. You CAN buy individual drills. He is going to email me prices on (1) (6) (12) pieces. Good for a lifetime of drilling! Remember, he started and drilled a round, tough, hardened steel bolt without doing any center punch to it at all. Notice the neat clean hole? It can do a neat

Was this .223 rifle an EAA import of the Russian American Armory import? The EAA had, (I heard) heavier barrels and better accuracy.

I have seen on another site for a page by page conversion, and how difficult some of these rivets and pieces are to drill out and remove during the conversion. Saiga 223 conversion page by page and wonderful illustrations. So, I thought I'd post one of the toughest drill bits I have seen, at least the result, here on the forum Guy I know that works for Lawson Products came by a while back and took a grade 8 bolt, which is about as hard as they come for bolts, and put it in the vice and, without so much as a starter punch, began to drill it ON THE SIDE of the bolt until he had gone comp

Waas over at On Target the other day and saw a Ruger Mini-14 Tactical with 20 rd that they had for sale that came standard with a collapsible AND fold up stock and had to have a pistol purchase permit because the overall length when the stock folded to the side, made it a semi auto pistol. It only has a 16" barrel, and when folded and it can shoot from that position, it's pretty short.

I have seen the Tapco T6 collapsible butt stock with the integrated pistol grip as part of the stock. Simply change it out from your old Russian made stock and you have it, with pistol grip. This differers from some of the mods that move in a new FCG and move everything forward toward the magazine release latch. Is there a problem "stretching" to reach the trigger that is on a pistol grip design, like the Tapco T6 over the closer pistol grip of one that has been otherwise converted?

I belong to several forums, THR, et al. On all of the other forums I get a notification that someone has replied to a thread I wanted email notification to, and when I click on the link, it goes to that page, using my Internet Explorer (v 7.0) to shot it. If I have more than one forum open, as in "tabs" it simply creates a new tab and shows the link I clicked from the email. Not so with SAIGA-12 forum notifications. If I get a notification and click on it, it opens in my email client the link, and does not go to the correct way to link Example: In other forum notifications, if I mous

But...... isn't the pistol grip considered an "add on" part and creates a negative aginst the compliance, regardless of whether it is made in US or not?

Have you tried reloads with .308 bullets?

Tapco has pistons, http://www.tapco.com/catalog.aspx?id=312 for 14.99 and they also have several forearms. QUESTION: That Intrafuse T6 stock on that page, listed for $69.99, would it qualify for replacement of 1 part? IOW, if I get the T6 collapsible stock, and use it along with my 3 part SureFire 30 rd magazine would that be in compliance? It looks like this one does not require any modifications of the fire control group, just bolt it on. Advantages in having the pistol grip and trigger moved a bit more forward, near the magazine latch? Do they make a simply drop in style FCG

If I take the front hanguard and modify it myself, would it now be consiidered "made in America"? Base part was made in Europe, I just finished it.

I bought a SureFire 30 rd magazine the other day at On Target, along with a side mount dual rail scope mount. The SureFire says "Made in U.S.A." but it is illegal to use it? Is not a USA made magazine, with floor plate, follower, and body counted as 3 replacement US parts? That would replace 3 Russian made parts, correct?

DON"T lube the bullets. The case fire forms against the side of the bore and does 2 things. Seals and prevents gas from coming back, because the brass is undersized for efficient feeding. 2, and this is the important part, is that it provided an additional grip of the case against the bore to help to prevent all the rearward pressure from contacting the bolt face and lugs. It was, or is, an additional safety to help with the chamber pressures. Yes, the gun will still fire with lubed bullets, but without lube the brass now has tighter friction against the walls and you decrease the amount

Very well spoken, Gunny R !! My local store, where I got the .223 also has a 7.62 x 39 AND he has the .308 in 22" length. I just didn't like the looks of the wasy the trigger was metal stamped, but hey, replace the fCG and it's not the same any more. .308 is a defenite strength for long range shots on deer and even elk. It's just a little weak for elk, but would work, where the 7.62 might be a lot undergunned for them. Unfortunately, here in lower Michigan, we cannot hunt deer with high power rifles, only shotguns and muzzleloades. Go figure! A 22-250 or 220 Swift in the brush would

I'll pass posting picture, thanks!

Quite true about the AK designed around the 7.62 x 39, it was the caliber of it's design, that is for certain. I noticed in my Saiga book I got with my EAA rifle that they made it in .223, 7.62 x 39 Soviet, .308 Winchester or (aka 7.62 x 51), and .270 Winchester. I suppose that one in .270 would be a hard bugger to find. Many of the "other" countries have also purchased weapons chambered for the .223. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. If I were going to shoot deer with it, I'd go with the .308 Winchester model that Dave has over there. Has an 8 round magazine, and a 22" bar

Answer # 1 does not quite hold up, as it depends on #2 for some support. I've shot deer with soft point 7.62 X 39mm out of a Ruger Mini-30. Killed them (2) yes, but on one I found the bullet in the hide when I skinned him. It had traversed lengthwise from neck to ass and the bullet was barely deformed on the end. Which..... let me to choose the .223 over the 7.62. Shot a milk jug with my Saiga last night (.223) and completely destroyed the jug and sent it flying about 15 feet up the hill. .223 has the advantages of smaller size more ammo able to carry and also the speed and selecti

Was at On Target in Kalamazoo, MI this evening and bought a side mount scope mount for it with rails on side and top AND it clears the dust cover on top and I can remove all the parts to clean it without messing with the scope. Another one I saw, screwed onto the screw just behind the dust cover latch, and the front onto the rear sight after you took it off. Didn't like that idea. Also got a set of Weaver rings for the top rail. Also got a SureFire 30 rd magazine. They were pretty proud of them at 41.00 so only bought one. Had some odds and ends of magazines, used, in a box, and even

5.56mm NATO has higher pressures due to thicker brass. Shooting .223 in a rifle chambered for "true" 5.56 x 45mm NATO is Generally regarded as safe as they were designed for slight higher pressures 62,366 PSI as compared to .223 Remington of 55,000. When reloading military brass, consider the smaller size of the powder chamber. It will increase pressures quicker than the .233 Remington. In other words, it would be unwise to just load .223 hand-load indiscriminately mixed with .223 Remington and 5.56 NATO spend brass (military). Since each firearm has differences in handling pressures, ea

Picked up a ProMag AK-A5 model for the AK in .223 at local hardware store, and could not get it to lock in the rear catch of the rifle. Guy at hardware said I can return it if it doesn't work, no questions asked. I had ordered one for the Saiga .223 in 30 rd last night before the stroms hit and knocked out our electricity. Will have to see when it get's here. This AK-A5 looks like it can "almost" fit, just lacks a very little bit. Would there be a difference in the 30 rd as compared to the 20 rd magazine?

Well, it's done now. Took the 7.62 in for the .223. Dinzzag told me that the EAA (which is this is .223) were heavier barrels and more accurate than the later RAAC ones. His recommendation is to "snap it up right away". Cleaned it and shot 2 water jugs last night. I'm happy to announce that both gallon jugs died a quick death. LOL I've shot both calibers in the past, from my Ruger Mini-14 to the Mini-30. Picked up some PMC ammo yesterday afternoon for 9.28 a box for the .223. Also found some hollow point Winchester for 29.00 for 40 rounds. Should be great on wood chucks as it did no

I've got a new 7.62 x 39, but it's only 24 hours old and the gun dealer said I can bring it back and trade it off. Which, is likely tonight. I've scouted around and there is little in the way of factory ammo, and that which I find is steel case, and I want to reload. One intersting aspect of this is that the reloading would take Large Rifle primers, which I can get, but Small Rifle primers are nowhere right now. So sort of stuck between the rock and hard place. .223 for using for wood chucks, racoon, possums and coyotes, and other vermin, or.... the 7.62 for wood chucks, racoon, possum a

How are the steel cases for reloading? I always assumed that the brass would be much better for fire fitting and that the steel was kind of a "one shot" deal.

If I reload, or buy spire point varmit loads, will they feed reliably? Does anyone have thougts on the the FTF of the various bullet designs? I used to shoot a Ruger Mini 14 with soft tipped lead bullets (copper jacket) for varmits like Prairie Dog, and other varmits. Fed VERY reliable with that Ruger. In other words, how well do these Saiga feed bullets without jamming?