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About psignore00

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  • Birthday 01/21/1985

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  1. i tried filling mine in with the same JB Weld i used to fill in the 4 old trigger holes. It's better, but something about the way they did it, it's almost like it's raised, not etched in. it looks better than before, and is not nearly as noticeable, but if you're looking for it you can see it. I may go back and try it again, if i get bored one day, but i'd probably try grinding in flat first and then fill it in.
  2. FYI...I just got a Saiga 12 from K-VAR last week. It was suppossed to be imported by "Arsenal" in Las Vegas. When i got it i was a little upset, because there was a block on the right side of the receiver that had been "scratched out" over where it said Russian American Armory's import mark and Arsenal's import mark was stamped on the left side of the receiver. Just to be clear when i say "scratched" it wasn't really scratched, but you know the "dot-style" engraving importers use for import marks...well it was a 2 inch x 1 inch box of little dots like that and it really stuck out. No
  3. As long as you still have a copy of the receipt, surefire will warranty the mag for 5 years. If you don't have the receipt, i would e-mail or call them and see if they can still help. A $40 magazine should not be doing that. I don't thinkg the Wolf ammo has anything to do with it.
  4. Every scope mount should mount as far forward on the side scope rail as any other mount. That's what allows them to lock in place. Now the relationship of the weaver rail compared to the mounting bracket could be different (the connecting arm could be angled forward as opposed to straight up), but if you're going to buy a new mount because you think it mounts farther forward on the side rail i wouldn't waste your money.
  5. Looks good! I was gonna do that myself too, but i found someone local who turned down the barrel and threaded it for 14mm LH threads like a regular ak. He also removed the FSB and drilled it out like Dinzag does to fit back on the barrel. All for $100.
  6. 1) GREAT PRICE on the Wolf. the cheapest 308 i can find around here is $400/1000rounds. 2) as said earlier, case denting is normal. 3) the reason i have a scope on my .308 and a red-dot on my 7.62x39 and 5.45x39 is becasue of the round, i would use the other two for closer-range shooting, whereas the 308 i would use for longer-distance shooting, where a scope would outperform a red-dot
  7. Yes, you need the pictol grip nut and screw. You are also forgetting about the two screws/nuts to relocate the triggerguard. As far as the upper gas tube goes, you might have to modify the Romy one you have, I know it would fit a 7.2x39 or .223 but Dinzag sells a different one for the .308. I think it's just a modified AK tube, but i'm not sure what's modified about it.
  8. You will need to dremel the inside to make it fit the 308 barrel, and get a Dinzag bolt on lower retainer and their 308 gas tube with retainers. I just did this with this furniture Centerfire has on sale http://www.centerfiresystems.com/STKAKA22.aspx It's made in Taiwan, but looks very good. my only complaint is it doesn't have the compartment flip door in the buttstock. I know some people will want US furniture for 922r reasons, but if you have 3 US trigger parts and only use US made mags(another 3 parts), then you're good-to-go
  9. I have not used his "308" furniture, but my guess would be that all he does is grind/dremel/sand out the inside of the handguard to make it fit the Saiga 308 barrel. If you already have a dremel, i'd save yourself the $30 and just do it yourself. Very slowly take off a little bit at a time until it fits.
  10. You know if you still have the owner's manual it has your rifle's 4 shot group at 100 meters on the "acceptance certificate" page (mine is page 19). It's handwritten in and mine is 97mm which is 3.8 inches. I thought it'd do better than that, especially during factory testing, but who knows what kind of junk ammo they were using.
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