MLM0358

Funny, I've noticed it too. Feels sort of like the forum is nowhere near a dynamic as before. Not sure why.

That optic is a C-more. There are others I like better, however Holosun has a new circle dot that I saw at the SHOT show. I find a circle dot speeds up my times, since the circle approximates the shot pattern and I'm not waiting to get the center dot exactly on target.

Have never seen any problems with muzzle brakes. Mid barrel compensators can cause cycling issues.

There are lots of threads on this topic. Seems like a lot of us have settled on the Molot GK01 or the USA made CSS equivalent. The recoil impulse is very different as compared with no brake. Sort of a rolling motion. I'm a believer in them and have them on all my competition S12s. Any brake makes the gun a bit long unless you shorten the barrel and perm the comp. It also means you have to jump through some hoops if you want chokes with a brake. A few threads on that too -- how to have brake and chokes at the same time.

Very nice! Did you do the bushing technique?

CF tubing readily available from many sources, but expensive and hard to find short lengths. Keep checking Ebay or Amazon if you want short pieces. I buy 72" at a time from carbonfibertubeshop.com and it's fairly expensive.

I made the hand guard from from carbon fiber tube; machined the fittings out of aluminum, then had them hard anodized. Another Saiga 12 race gun carbon fiber project is underway now and will keep you all posted when it's done. Though technically possible with exotic techniques, it's not practical to weld ferrous and non-ferrous metals. Hence the bushing. The steel bushing is sliver soldered onto the barrel, but the pin on the aluminum comp is welded over in aluminum.

For anyone interested, here is what the steel bushing looks like. It's obviously silver soldered on last thing, since once it's on there is no way to slide on the gas block.

Here is a picture of a S12 cut to 16". Internally threaded for chokes. A steel bushing is silver soldered onto the barrel. The threads on the comp are bored out. Then the comp is attached to the bushing with 8-32 screws. Then comp is pinned and welded.

I started out with a poly choke and I agree it's an excellent solution. Problem, at least for me, with poly choke is that it's not as effective a muzzle brake as some of the other options. The challenge in a competition gun is to get a good choke, a good brake, and good reliability all at the same time without a long overall length.

I saw it at SHOT show. They actually have two models The more interesting one is the XTR-12 which is basically an AR10 configuration. I'd be more interested in that one. Both models are still unicorn guns. Due sometime 2015. Believe it when I see it. I saw a nice one at Rhino Arms at SHOT last year 12 gauge upper compatible with DPMS AR10 lower. You could have .308 or 12g by just changing the upper. I was pretty excited about it. Looked like a well designed gun. It was due mid- 2014. They apparently gave up or postponed because I called Dec. 2014 and it was still not available

Oh yeah, here's another method I tried. This comp mount is aluminum so it's not as heavy as it looks. However the silver soldered bushing I mentioned in my last post eliminates all the clamping to the muzzle, hence the light, clean installation. With each method I use a long tool to change chokes so no need to remove the comp.

I've done a ton of experimentation on just this issue. Bottom line -- the best way (though not the cheapest) is to cut off the end of the barrel, internally thread the barrel for chokes. I then silver soldered on a bushing. Used machine screws to hold the comp to the bushing. Made a long tool to reach inside the comp to change the chokes. I've tried all sorts of methods, but this is by far the cleanest and lightest installation. You can cut at 18" and have the comp sticking out further -- or cut off at 16" and permanently affix the comp. I've found you can go to 16" without modifying t

Yes, did it myself. Also the carbon fiber handguard. The keep on topic, I've tried numerous brakes, including mid-barrel, but like the GK-01 best. It's aluminum so much lighter than it looks. The 16" barrel, with internal chokes and permed GK-01 brake is so far the best combination I've run in competition. As Evlblkwpnz (who seems to be the short barrel guru on this forum) correctly predicted, there was no need to modify the gas system. Low recoil and short enough to be wicked fast on the transitions and shooting through ports. Next project is a 14.5" barrel with internal chokes, gas

The barrel is 16" and internally threaded for chokes. A steel collar is silver soldered on to the barrel. The comp has four button head cap screws holding it to the collar. Then there is also a blind pin into the steel collar and welded over.

GK01

Fiocchi 7/8 oz aero slugs. Part number: 12LESLUG These run fine. They aren't exactly cheap though. . . about 90 cents/shell.

No problem. Runs great on Federal bulk from Walmart and everything else I ran through it (#4 high brass, low recoil slugs). Shot it in a match and it ran flawlessly. I was concerned too. However, Evlblkwpnz suggested to me before I cut it that he didn't think it would be a problem - he was right. Doing two more now. Will post if I see any issues arise.

First picture is the setup for getting the barrel concentric with the I.D. of the barrel. The "donut" is attached to the barrel with set screws, then turned with the barrel held between centers. Second picture is the reaming process- the steady rest is on the part that was turned to be concentric with the I.D. The wrench is just to hold the reamer from rotating. The barrel is rotating in the lathe at about 50 r.p.m. I made a custom pilot for the reamer that perfectly fits the Saiga barrel I.D. -- it's a non-standard size. Last picture is the final result 16" barrel with permanent

The bolt must depress the hammer for the gun to operate. The primary determining factor on the hammer is that it needs to be depressed far enough to allow the disconnector to engage -- but not be depressed any more than necessary. A factory gun, or stock Tapco G2 trigger has way more hammer depression than is actually needed. It's a good learning experience to see how the bolt carrier, trigger, hammer, sear and disconnector all work together. Definitely don't try anything else on your hammer until you really understand it. Since the trigger assembly is the only thing that changed tha

Amonshax: Welcome to the forum and I was exactly where you are a few years ago and you've come to the right place for answers. I would NOT recommend opening up gas ports any further until you have established the root problem. First thing I would do is be absolutely 100% sure that my gas plug is set on the highest gas setting. Get one of the improved versions of adjustable gas plugs if you don't already have one. If you haven't already done it, buy one the low brass reliability kits CSS. This has a lower power recoil spring that will help. My guess is that the root problem is your

Just finished building a new S12 race gun -- R & R magwell, trigger guard and AR stock adapter. I chopped the barrel to 16" barrel, internally threaded for chokes, then permed the CSS version of the GK01 comp to stay out of jail. Left side charging handle. Wasn't sure if I'd need to mess with the gas system length -- but it ran great with the stock length gas. Made a steel bushing and silver soldered it to the end of the barrel. Bored out the existing steel threads on the comp, then attached the comp to the bushing with machine screws, then blind pinned and welded. Made my own

I just did it. pressed out the barrel. Chopped to 16" Didn't chop shorter than 16" because I was worried about having to shorten the gas system. Left gas system stock length. Internally threaded for Rem chokes using Brownells (Manson Reamers) reamer and Rem choke tap. Saiga barrel is non-standard I.D. so you have to make your own pilot bushing. Buy the bushing blank from Brownells. FYI-- Lots of misinformation on you tube about how to do the barrel threading. DO NOT attempt to do this using the You Tube bit and brace method. To do it right and be exactly concentric, you need

The entire gun is an abortion. As I said, It started out life as a very early R and R Targets race gun with mid-barrel comp and short gas system. That owner never got the gun to work right and fiddled with it and finally sold it to another guy I shoot 3 gun with. He welded up the mid barrel comp holes, and it ran OK, but it cycled so fast it was really violent. When you'd adjust the gas It would either not run, or run too fast-- the hulls fly about 20 feet away. We've tried every spring combination you can think of as well. The hammer came down at such an acute angle that it almost hit

Thanks all: First off, evlblkwpnz , yes the spring is installed correctly-- thanks for checking up on me. Think it's fixed now. I checked GOB's suggestions and the hammer did not strike the firing pin squarely. It was a highly modified hammer that was lightened with a hole through the middle and badly profiled. I replaced it with another G2 hammer which I profiled to hit squarely. Ran 100 rounds through it with no problem. I case you're interested, took a high speed video of the hammer impacting the FP just to be sure no binding. Looks good to me. http://youtube/2Pel_ShfDEo H