zagumennyyilya

This is the Disconnector, you see where the paint is removed This is the Hammer and that is where the paint is removed, at the tip. Once I have everything clean, I use a White lithium grease on all the surfaces that I lapped to polish the parts to each other using themselves and the cycling action of the firearm. When all the parts are greased, cycle the weapon about 100 times again, and dry fire it each time, the lithium grease will allow the parts to polish against each other and the trigger feel will become super smooth. I use this grease to

Cycle the weapon and allow the trigger parts to lap to each other and the surfaces will smooth out against each other, the feel of this operation will be extremely gritty and unnatural for a trigger, that is good, you are allowing the parts to wear into each other without wearing the parts out or removing excess material if you were to use a file or polishing stone. When you have cycled the weapon about 100 times pulling the trigger each time, clean off all the lapping compound off the rifle and parts. I used a Q-tip and some brake clean type liquid. Here you see the FCG parts

In trying to make the super shoot more accurately, one of the issues heard about on forums and from individuals is the gritty feel of the trigger for the ak type weapon, when i got my super vepr, both of them in fact had very gritty triggers. The triggers are 2 stage yes, but they were gritty and when you pulled slowly, the feel was just no good. Sticking to the KISS idea, I don't want to spend any money and don't want to remove the trigger if not necessary. Here is what I did to make a really smooth trigger for myself. I am a mechanic by trade and have used something called valve l

I am a proponent of the KISS principle, keep it simple stupid, and the intensive bedding process was shelved. I was browsing some Mosin Nagant forums and i ran across some youtube videos of people accurizing the Mosin and there was an individual that brought my attention to the WWII Russian snipers who used cork to bed the long pencil thin barrel to the stock. The idea was that cork is a soft dense material that would compress and provide even pressure along the entire barrel, also because the cork is relatively dense, it would absorb some of the barrel vibrations and improve barrel harmon

Hello, i have had the super for some time now and am not entirely satisfied with the results it was giving me, I have already posted on this forum asking what it would take to bed the stock to the barreled action of the rifle, in my opinion the way the stock is contacting the barrel in the front is less than ideal. The stock is held to the barrel right in front of the receiver and right at the gas block, so when the rifle rests on a sandbag, there is pressure at 2 points pushing upwards. I am not a big fan of that and wanted to bed that part of the rifle to the stock using epoxy or glass

I think yours was the inspiration for a single block to raise and move to to right. LOL thanks!

I have not measured where the lands start, I am just starting with the super project, I am planning on removing one variable at a time. The one piece swimsuit design is not very good in my opinion. There are 2 mounting bolts for the stock on the bottom, the forward one there is a lug right on the barrel so no matter where you rest the rifle on the bag, that will push on the barrel. I want to bed the stock so there is no single pressure point but full lenghth contact.

Alright, the block that I used to move the rail to the right was 6.7 mm wide, that moved the rail right over the bore and was centered, if you have the same mount it should be centered.

I am not at home right now, I will tell you as soon as I get home and measure the block I used to move the rail over the bore.

Well said, the purpose of all this testing with the scope mounts and different ammo is to see how the rifle performs, there is nothing available on the net as to the real accuracy of the rifle. If the rifle is marketed as target hunting rifle than it better perform that way, right now, it's not living up to those expectations, I am trying to find out where it all goes wrong for this rifle, is it the horrible scope mount setup? Or the ammo? Or the shooter, therein lies the true question. We will see.

That is what I want to try next, I will buy the top mount from kalinka next and compare.

Well, I tried Speer 125grain bullets, Hornady FMJBT 150grain, and sierra 168grain HPBT match. All with varying powder charges and different powders. So I don't know. The sierra 168 grain hollow point boat tail were the best group, about the 2"

Hi again, so i loaded some ammo with different types of bullets and powders and decided to go see how well my rifle can shoot, i have a portable shooting bench and i used a caldwel front rest to shoot. range was about 100 yards based on my estimates and the mil reticle confirmed by the size of target in the reticle. to be honest, i am not very impressed with the rifle, either the scope mounting situation is causing too much deflection from shot to shot, or i am a terrible shooter, or the rifle isnt performing to what i want out of it. here are some more. as a compariso

As many of you know there is an issue with the scope mount availability and design for the supers, the rail is offset even more the the left than the regular vepr and saigas because of the beautiful wood, in my opinion, the overhanging design is terrible, but we make do with what we have, here I have a M76 scope mount from kalinka website, I purchased it because on the pictures it sits very low and i thought it would work for my rifle, well the mount as it came sat way lower than i thought, I had to take off the top cover, remove the bolt carrier to be able to mount the mount. So I decide

both of my super veprs dont murder the brass, sometimes there will be a slight ding on the side of the case, but it doesnt affect reloading in any way. i reload for my super. also if yours dings the brass way too much, there is a fix, look up youtube video of saiga 308 ejector adjustment, the video explains how the ejection process works and what to do to fix it. my supers dont dent the brass hardly ever so i didnt bother.

If you got it for a smoking deal, it wont break the bank to get a good tiggerguard. css has some cheap decent ones.

What forearm is that on the 308?, ultimak?

Look on YouTube for a video called saiga 308 ejector adjustment, guy explains why the dent happens and how to fix It.

Regarding good hunting round for 500 yards I havent tested out to 500 yards, i shot the 150 gr, at 500 but not for groups, I shot at steel targets. And that was pretty good.

Whoever told you that is a total dumbass who does not know a thing about guns, number one, you can shoot any ammo that is commercialy made with any bullet sizes, the guns go through a certification that spans worldwide for the maximum pressure allowable in a firearm, ammo manufacturers have a certification agency to pass before they can sell that ammo, there are sammi pressures and cup pressures they have to pass, typically its 60,000 psi for the 308 cartridge, the firearm has been built to include at least 25% more pressure capacity to reduce chances of blow ups and avoid lawsuits, so any amm

You can always buy pro something mags that are a direct copy of the m14 mags but made to be used in a vepr , but I think the csspecs mags are way better, so pick your poison.

The 308 caliber AK rifles do no need bullet guides, all the other AK rifles that come into the country unconverted will need a bullets guide to accept surplus mags,csspecs mags are not surplus.

I know there is a vepr 308 made in russia to take fal mags from the factory, probably no chance of it being imported though. Check through the forum, its here somewhere.

Can someone post pics of this? With the top cover off, would like to see what everyone is talking about.

I had a similar issue, but I took a hammer and a punch, and smashed the pin so it won't come out, pounded on the pin to make is squeezed and not move in its hole as freely.