my762buzz

It looks as though the gas blaze gets diverted to the sides. Did you see a flame in your line of sight?

The kns front sight posts with the 0.034 wide tip are less than half the width of the factory post and even smaller than the tech sights match post width. Being able to center a narrower front post into a more precise center may help improve your aim-precison. It definitely helped me line up much straighter. I am still working on making a perfect front sight/rear sight stripe match pattern. It works well for speed sighting and precision.

Legally you can't posses a short barrel rifle in the process. Its not a do it your self thing. Once a licensed gunsmith permanently attaches the brake it can't come off unless something else is permanently attached or you can legally get a tax stamp and then it don't matter how short or whether the brake is permanent.

But why thread the muzzle when you can JB weld a brake on?

The last time I wanted to remove JB weld that was stuck on something I heated the part to 300 F and it was soft enough to come apart. I'm not sure how hot the trunnion will get in normal firing. The inside of a car down in the south in the summer can easily exceed 200 F. Why take a chance?

When using the tap, did you clean the hole of steel particles, did you use oil in the hole, and did you turn it 1/8 inches and then reverse it on each new cut forward? I put oil on the bit not in the hole, yes I cleaned the hole from steel particles. I just did 1/4 turn, reverse, 1/4 turn etc. Oiling the hole and using short partial turns will help ensure the tap does not over torque and break. Sometimes 1/16 turn and back will better. I tapped several trunnions and never broke a tap yet by working it slowly back and forth in short turns and keeping the hole well oiled.

When using the tap, did you clean the hole of steel particles, did you use oil in the hole, and did you turn it 1/8 inches and then reverse it on each new cut forward?

The asian one has a little stub hanging out to prevent the mount from sliding forward. The Kvar one has a whole ledge for that purpose. The locking mechanism is much better on the kvar one versus the asian copy. I tested out an asian copy with a large scope and the top rail shook loose within 10 firings of 7.62x39. The aluminum grade used on the asian one is not as good either. Some chinese made items are much better than other chinese made ones. This is not one of the better ones. Its not worth the $17 I paid for it on Ebay. The real irony behind this is that it wouldn't cost much for

The one in your picture is not the Kvar Mount. That is the asian copy. The real Kvar mount has kv 04 written on the lower mount. I can't see anything written on your image.

What didn't you like on the kvar one?

Its Arsenal's Saiga restoration to a similar but not identical AK103 style clone. I guess if they don't weld up any holes that would imply it was imported with nearly all the evil hardware minus the compliance parts. Anyway, I am glad to have one and couldn't be more happy with it.

I'm a bit amazed to not see any welding seams.

Curved lip style on a Saiga SGL.

As far as the fuzzy critter, it might have crawled out of the box. Must be a Los Vegas dessert varmint that got trapped in the shipping box while chewing on the black polymer from the 5 round mag that came with the rifle. Not sure what to do with it.

Yes, changed out at Arsenal.

and real functional muzzle brake all for six benjamins and change. Not a bad deal considering a nearby pawn shop has stock RAA unconverted saigas marked up to $550 for a 7.62x39. I couldn't wait to replace the pistol grip for a bulgarian saw version.

That works too.

If you use a hand drill, glue a steel nut just wide enough to guide the drill bit to keep it from slipping, and carefully turn the tap slowly in 1/8 turns then in reverse with plenty of gun oil in the hole to keep from over torqueing the tap and breaking it.

Your welcome

Yes, a bullet guide and filing the mag release is all physically required. If you don't file more than is required, your factory saiga magazine or propriety promag magazine may fit well enough into the mag release but the front magazine lug needs to be trimmed 4mm off the top to allow room for the bullet guide.

Thats not going to work. Its been made illegal to use a higher capacity than 10 rounds in an imported semiauto rifle 12 years ago and it has nothing to do with the expired 94-2004 domestic ban. In order to use a surplus AK magazine, you need to reduce a certain quantity of foreign parts which means pulling parts off the rifle and replacing them with domestic made ones. Keeping it stock is not going work with what your after.

Here is a follow up to the 5.45 pin testing. At this point, over 200 rounds of 7.62x39 since this past weekend. No failures to fire and no popped primers. I took a picture of two cases fired from a Russian 7.62x39 Vepr with its original firing pin. Notice that the cases on the left have no chamber step mark. The cases on the right are from the saiga with the 5.45 firing pin that has fired off over 200 rounds of russian steel case and brass case ammo.

Saigas are inherently more Ak74 in design. The 90 degree gas block stands out pretty loud. Dressing them as an AKM is retrofitting.

I'd try to recreate this test with my K-Var 74-type brake.. but unfortunately my rifle's not FA. Next time I go shoot, I will try just firing as quickly as I can, 1-handed, and we'll see how well she stays on target. Your SGL from Arsenal should have a real functional brake. Try doing a triple tap at 10 ft, 20 ft,and 30 ft and count the hits on a 16 inch target.

Most of the 74 style brakes are not really functional. The FSC47 is probably the most effective brake I have seen yet, but its not threaded for the wider Ak 74 threading. Can anyone shoot one handed like this guy in this you tube video and not have the muzzle rise with any other brake?