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About fosniper

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  • Birthday 09/26/1983

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  1. I just today received my order from them. +1 for the order being handled well and efficiently. +2 for the response time. I PMed my order at about 0255, and had a response by 0317. Where else do you find service like that? +3 for the patience. I ordered on the 8th of MAR, and just received today on the 4th of APR. This was no fault of theirs, however; my local dealer was having problems faxing their FFL. It took about 3 weeks, and I decided to use another dealer (which I was avoiding using because it's 25 miles away). Got the fax there, and Nathan had the shipment in the mail the next morning. Great transaction, and if I need another Saiga (and don't we all?) It's probably coming from them.
  2. Walk through the woods? It works, you know. Or, if you don't have woods.....walk in the desert? The grassland? Admittedly, swmpland would suck, but hell - there are at least the sides of the road. This kills me, every time this comes up - "What if there are checkpoints?" ..."What if the roads are clogged with stalled cars?" Get around the mindset of "Going someplace=road". If you can get out of that frame of mind, then you can think to survive. And that's what really counts. (Note: THE_HUNTER, this is not a diatribe against you, I just see this question all too often, and too many people can't think outside of a road.) I recommend joining a good discussion, like Zombie Squad mentioned above, or SHTF Militia and start really thinking about what it takes to survive (Hint: it's a lot more than guns and ammo. You can't drink powder, and primers do not a tasty breakfast make.) As for what's in my Zombie Survival Kit? Well, browse on over to SHTF Militia and find out.
  3. fosniper

    Gas Adjustment?

    Yes, as stated, the above thread is useful. Basically, where the numbers are, that is that cap. That whole assembly (kind of thimble-shaped) will unscrew, giving you access to the gas system. (Note: For normal firing, what you do is hold the button in, screw the stopper (that's the official name of this part) all the way in, the back it out to the first number you hit (should be 1)) The tool that came (or should have come) with the gun, the one that's like a long screwdriver, works well for simultaneously depressing the button and providing some leverage to turn the stopper should it require some persuading.
  4. The only problem you'll have if you leave them in the mag for extended periods of time is if you leave the mag in the weapon on closed bolt. The pressure of the shell constantly pressing against the bolt causes top round shell deformation, and thus often causes a failure to feed. It is said that using a slug as the top round will help alleviate that problem, and that using an all-steel-cased shell will eliminate it. Personally, I don't have any steel hulls lying around, and I don't want a slug as the first round for HD. I want buckshot, because it gives me better coverage, since a HD situation is goingto be high-stress, andthis way I won't have to worry as much about getting a good sight picture on my first shot. If I have to shoot to stop a threat, I want him going down, and going down now. So, I personally keep the bolt locked back, full 5-round mag locked in. Besides, the sound of releasing the bolt has the same effect as racking the slide on a pump-action, thus it could be used a psychological scare factor. But that might be the 5 AM talking.
  5. Yeah, it does look like you're off to a good start. Don't go changing too much at once though. If you fix the problem, and changed 5 things at once, you'll never know which of the 5 was causing the original problem. One variable at a time, as my chemist professor used to scream at me. Any good gun oil will work for the action. I don't know personally, I've never seen anything "official", but every single person on here, when the subject comes up, will tell you NOT to lubricate the gas system. Make sure it's well cleaned out, but it doesn't need any lube. This, again, is not my personal advice, just what I've heard. That being said, I've never lubed the gas system, and no matter how ruddy it turns out when I clean it, it always fires fine. Good luck, and keep us posted.
  6. Yes, as Mike said, it is normal for the bolt not to go completely into battery if going slowly forward. I was concerned about this myself, until I stripped it and looked at the groove in the bolt carrier where the bolt rotates, you'll see a little ledge where it gets hung up. (No digital camera, sorry no pics) I don't know what function it serves, but I figure they wouldn't have made it that way without a damned good reason. And besides, in my case the gun functions flawlessly just like this. As for the non-cycling, I read somewhere on here that someone (Max, I think) had a similar problem, and just backed out the gas selector two full turns. I'll post it if I can find it; various searches have turned up nothing so far. But you may want to try this. Screw the gas selector all the way in. Then, back it out until the first click.(Should be on "1) This is where it normally should operate. Then you would back it out to the "2" to use for lighter loads. But, don't stop there. Back it out, say, one full rotation, and fire a bunch of rounds through it. If you see some improvement, but still have a lot of FTEs, then maybe back it out another turn. I woudln't back it out too far, don't want to risk too much gas, battering the trunnion, etc. But this might be a "quick and easy" fix. Hope this helps, or something does. Every time a Saiga doesn't work properly, somewhere an angel loses its wings to an SMG. (Bonus points if you get the reference) EDIT: I found it! Took about an hour of creative searching. Just so you know I'm not talking out my ass here: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?s=&amp...st&p=135879
  7. There are a few other things with trusts I would mention. Caveat: I'm not a lawyer, YMMV, UAYOR, etc.Here's "Trusts 101 in One Paragraph" The thing about a trust is that the legal and equitable title (basically, who posses it physically,and can do things with it - legal - and who gets to benefit from it - equitable) must be separate. Basically, one person (the trustee) is the person who holds the property, and another (the beneficiary) is the one who benefits. This can be done for a variety of reasons - don't trust the beneficiary, want to make sure your child doesn't get all the money at once to blow through,etc. And, as noted above, it can be used to purchase NFA items, since the trust exists as a legal entity. However, notice I said the legal and equitable title must be separate. If you are the Trustee, and also the beneficiary, then the legal and equitable title merge, there is no trust, and now (if you're doing this for an NFA) the NFA items is unregistered, or is registered to the wrong entity. So, to avoid this, you split it. YOu make yourself the trustee (which you really need to, or else you wouldn't really be able to cart around the NFA item) and someone else (or yourself and someone else - as long as it isn't just you) is the beneficiary. The thing to be careful of here is that you don't have any clauses about "preserving the property" or "making the property profitable." Some states assign this clause, and some programs will include this clause unless you leave it out. What does this mean? Let's say you set us a trust with your child as the beneficiary. Your child turns 18, and thinks "well, i'm gonna get something out of this" they could legally sue you for failing to preserve the trust property, because the beneficary has the power to enforce the trust. Yeah, I rambled a little but more than necessary, but hey, you asked.
  8. I don't have experience with Direct Outdoor Supply. Sorry, maybe someone else does. But..if you're looking at those Tapco parts, I would check out www.jsesurplus.com . They have the same parts, but a lot less (T6 for 45, Galil style handguard for 28). Mind you, I've never done business with them either, but they claim they're from Tapco and maintain the warranty, so...that's where I'm going when I finally buy my conversion parts. Just food for thought.
  9. I was hoping someone would find that funny. Crap. I guess my (very dry) sense of humor fails to translate over the internet.
  10. Yeah, kind of. They only count as one part if they're foreign manufactured. It doesn't matter how many US parts you have in, only how many foreign parts. That's the thing I was trying to point out above (and I'm not sure I was being clear on it) is it doesn't matter if the drum counts as having a floorplate, or just a body and follower. Even if you count the drum only as a body and follower (this counting as "two parts") there is still no floorplate - domestic or foreign - so you're still only counting foreign parts as 11 (10 if you don't count threaded barrel).
  11. The AOW stamp is $5 to transfer but if I recall correctly, it's still $200 to manufacture. Also IIRC you can't make a shotgun an AOW unless it has never had a stock on it. But it is almost 0300, I might be wrong.....*snooze*
  12. If the synthetic thumbhole stock is US Made, and you only use US made mags, you're in the clear. Good luck, and make sure to post pics! We all love gun porn.
  13. I don't think how you count the drum parts matters...I could be wrong, but follow me here. 922 only specifies that you can't have more than 10 foreign made parts. So, you have: (1) Receiver (2) Barrels (3) Muzzle attachments (shotguns w/ threaded barrels only) (4) Bolts (5) Bolt carriers (6) Gas pistons (7) Triggers (8) Hammers (9) Disconnectors (10) Buttstock (11) Forearms, handguards Discounting the magazine parts, these are the only foreign parts left in the gun, and that's all that matters. So you only need to replace one of these. Of course, you might add one to the parts count if you add the thumbhole stock...'cause who knows if they'd count it as one part (Buttstock) or as two (buttstock and pistol grip) But, unless I'm wrong on this, the addition of the drum leaves only 11 foreign parts - doesn't matter how many US parts you have. Even if you have only the body and follower, and don't count the back of the drum as a floorplate, you still don't have a foreign floor plate to count as a foreign part. Am I making sense here? Because I feel like I'm running around in circles...my thoughts go a lot faster than I type.
  14. I'll see your $5.75, and I'll counter with $7.62, shipping, and a $5.56 gas card.
  15. OK, here's my best shot: 1) It depends on your interpretation. Consider the three magazine pieces (not sure how you'd separate them with the drum, but it's moot anyway) as US Made. That gives you 10....or 11, if your barrel is threaded. There seems to be some debate as to whether a threaded barrel with no actual extension, just a thread protector, would still be counted as a Muzzle Accessory on "The List". I personally feel that since there's no real accessory attached (no flash hider, suppressor, choke, etc.) then there is in fact no accessory. Most people err on the side of caution (which is probably wise) and still count it. So if you have a threaded barrel, to err on the side of caution,.....then no, you would still need to swap out one more part to get to 10. 2) I believe there is a skeletonized stock that will fit unmodified Saiga....THERE it is. http://www.gilbertsguns.com/index.php?requ...;categoryid=439 However, IIRC, and I'm sure someone will pop up during "normal business hours" to fill in the blanks, there was a ruling from the ATF that a stock like a thumbhole, skeleton, etc. where the thumb was not completely above the trigger was still classified as a pistol grip, and therefore subject to compliance. Soooo, if you did this, without doing a full conversion, your only real option for compliance is using US Made mags, and maybe changing a gas piston or the handguard. Clear as mud? Good, glad I could help
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