macbeau 902 Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 Hmmmmm, Smells like home.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TonyRumore 1,332 Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 I can tell that isn't the Tromix oven or you would see a couple of pieces of pizza heating up in there at the same time. Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
macbeau 902 Posted January 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 (edited) Damn Tony - we think alike! Edited January 30, 2007 by macbeau Quote Link to post Share on other sites
O.S.O.K. 0 Posted January 31, 2007 Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 You don't "hang" your parts? Does the rack make marks on the finish? I always hang mine from under the racks. And yes, its stinks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
csspecs 1,987 Posted January 31, 2007 Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 Looks like all the parts are hanging. I have baked on kylon gloss black on my ruger 10/22 barrel, took a long time but it stayed on there even with cleaning solvents. I sand blasted it and scrubbed it with denatured alcohol and gave it a good spaying and stuffed it in the oven for a few hours. So what did you have to do with that paint? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
macbeau 902 Posted January 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 Looks like all the parts are hanging. I have baked on kylon gloss black on my ruger 10/22 barrel, took a long time but it stayed on there even with cleaning solvents. I sand blasted it and scrubbed it with denatured alcohol and gave it a good spaying and stuffed it in the oven for a few hours. So what did you have to do with that paint? The parts are hanging (my photo-fu is not strong). The barreled receiver is hanging under the rack and the small parts on the baking sheet are actually supported by wire supports about 1/4" up off the sheet. I can't really see the wire supports in my own pic, but they are there. I prepped by lightly sanding everything with progessively finer paper. (220, 300, 400, 600 grit). I then degreased with engine degreaser (let dry) and went over it with acetone. After I was satisfied that everything had dried, I pre-heated parts with a paint striping gun before spraying. I used two coats of Dupli-color High Temp (1200 degree) engine paint. The first coat was done from about 10" away. After an hour, I sprayed again with the parts about 18" away to give it a "textured" look. I let everything hang for 2 days before baking. Baked for 2 hours at 350. The paint becomes soft, so I let it air cool in the oven down to room temp. It came out very well. It remains to be seen how durable it will be, but others have reported satisfactory results and the price is right. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
O.S.O.K. 0 Posted January 31, 2007 Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 My experience with it is that it is very durable in as far as friction and adhesion is concerned, but doesn't stand-up to strong solvents very well. But to me, this is a non-issue as I don't use them on the outside of my rifle. Also, I do rub the rig down with CLP once it's done - it seems to like that Quote Link to post Share on other sites
macbeau 902 Posted January 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 (edited) My experience with it is that it is very durable in as far as friction and adhesion is concerned, but doesn't stand-up to strong solvents very well. But to me, this is a non-issue as I don't use them on the outside of my rifle. Also, I do rub the rig down with CLP once it's done - it seems to like that What is considered a "strong" solvent. I am a WD-40, RemOil & BreakFree (for cleaning) kinda guy. On tough stuff, I occasionally use break cleaner (poor-man's Gun Scrubber) or Sweet's. But mostly, I use everything on the bore and gas system and not the outer surfaces. [bTW - I don't know if anyone noticed, but there are two top covers on the cookie sheet. The one on the right is the factory cover for use with side mounting scope mounts and the other is my Vulcan cover with the rear sight on it for normal, iron sight use. I just wanted them to match each other and the rifle. I have not had great success matching paint jobs done at two different times in past attempts. The matte Dupli-color, does, however, seem to match the factory finish very well - insofar as appearance.] Edited January 31, 2007 by macbeau Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MD_Willington 11 Posted January 31, 2007 Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 I use non-chlrorinated brake cleaner as a solvent, but that is on stainless. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
csspecs 1,987 Posted February 1, 2007 Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 I have a 7.62x39 baking right now. The can said to wait 1 hour before heating it, so I painted it at about 8:30 and it should be done fairly soon. I like to use a sand blaster to rough up the surface, I found the paint to stick better than when I was just sanding it. No matter what you use the metal must be cleaned very well or the paint falls off. Oh I just got the best dremal'ish thing ever, it is a rotozip rz10 with the flexable tube attachment. It has more power and can use the dremal bits just fine, way better than my old dremal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
O.S.O.K. 0 Posted February 2, 2007 Report Share Posted February 2, 2007 Strong solvents... I know that even Hoppes will remove the finish but not bad. Acetone will affect it. Don't know about brake cleaner - may very well. Interestingly, the original Saiga finish comes off with acetone too. Try it - you'll see. I know because I used it to degrease my rifle prior to applying the duplicolor. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
csspecs 1,987 Posted February 2, 2007 Report Share Posted February 2, 2007 denatured alcohol was taking a bit of the paint off as well. I think that the factory skipped surface prep. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DocV 0 Posted February 2, 2007 Report Share Posted February 2, 2007 Is this stuff any good? It's supposed to be resistant to solvents and have some lube properties. http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/Pro...%20GUN%20FINISH I was thinking about doing a desert type paint scheme, desert tan on the lower receiver and furniture and either O.D. green or desert mint (very light green) on the dust cover, gas tube, and barrel. Pardon the amatuer Photo-Chop: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
macbeau 902 Posted February 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2007 Strong solvents... I know that even Hoppes will remove the finish but not bad. Acetone will affect it. Don't know about brake cleaner - may very well. Interestingly, the original Saiga finish comes off with acetone too. Try it - you'll see. I know because I used it to degrease my rifle prior to applying the duplicolor. I did my final surface prep with acetone too and noticed that. I let it fully dry before I pre-heated and painted, but I noticed that it affected the factory finish. I don't plan on cleaning with acetone (or denatured alcohol), just curious if someone found a regular cleaning product that I might want to avoid using this paint... I know break cleaner and engine de-greaser don't affect the finish on my Galil or my Norinco .223, but I am sure those are different finishes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
O.S.O.K. 0 Posted February 3, 2007 Report Share Posted February 3, 2007 I used some brake cleaner today on my s308 with the duplicolor 1200 and it didn't bother the finish fwiiw. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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