Jump to content

securing sharkbreak


Recommended Posts

now that i have it...

anyone got a technique for getting it tight at top dead center...

for that matter do the small vents go up or down?

 

i used teflon tape and stuck the tips in the floor and used the russian bitch as the wrench

but i think the teflon will melt... and possibly loosen anyway

 

 

thanks in advance

Link to post
Share on other sites

As far as the torch heat. I dunno....

I bribe my friends with "Gun-Fu" to hook it up.

 

My top secret avatar stash! http://www.comicheroes.co.uk/xmen_gifs4.htm

Link to post
Share on other sites

Green Locktite = easy to back out screws

 

Blue Locktite = much harder to break the screw loose and back it out

 

Red Locktite = permanate installation, very difficult to back a screw back out again, maybe it wont come out without damage

 

Use the correct locktite or you willbe sorry! A little goes a long way!

 

Black Locktite = dont know anything about it.............

Link to post
Share on other sites
Green Locktite = easy to back out screws

 

Blue Locktite = much harder to break the screw loose and back it out

 

Red Locktite = permanate installation, very difficult to back a screw back out again, maybe it wont come out without damage

 

Use the correct locktite or you willbe sorry! A little goes a long way!

 

Black Locktite = dont know anything about it.............

 

can i mix them all and call it welded :blink:

Link to post
Share on other sites

Green Locktite = easy to back out screws

 

Blue Locktite = much harder to break the screw loose and back it out

 

Red Locktite = permanate installation, very difficult to back a screw back out again, maybe it wont come out without damage

 

...this isnt right, sorry bro

Link to post
Share on other sites
Green Locktite = easy to back out screws

 

Blue Locktite = much harder to break the screw loose and back it out

 

Red Locktite = permanate installation, very difficult to back a screw back out again, maybe it wont come out without damage

 

...this isnt right, sorry bro

 

so tomix uses green?

Link to post
Share on other sites

You are right Bob, the green is the tough shit. I think I got it correct now........ Like I said, use the correct Locktite or you may be sorry! As I screw things up often, I always use the BULE Locktight so I can remove the screw again and then do the job right the second time! :rolleyes: The blue is actually pretty tough, it has never let me down.

 

 

Blue Locktite = hard to break the screw loose and back it out

 

Red Locktite = permanate installation, very difficult to back a screw back out again.

 

Green Locktite = almost impossable to remove

Link to post
Share on other sites

I use Purple #222MS.

 

It is low strength for use with 10-32 screws and smaller.

 

It will hold the brake just fine, but you can still get it off fairly easy.

 

If you use any other loctite, you're going to have a hell of time getting it back off with those super fine threads on such large diameter material. That's a lot of surface area you're locking up.

 

Tony

Link to post
Share on other sites

I needed the extra length on my shotty to be legal in Michigan.

Standard conversion comes in at 29 in. folded, I needed 30 in. to be legal here.

That's why I opted for the red. It would not be legal unless it is permanently attached.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought it had to be at least silver soldered on to be considered permanent?

 

Why anyone would give up their options to use multiple muzzle attachments is beyond me. A couple of drops of blue should be sufficient. I was lucky with mine on my stock unmodded IZ-109 and it indexed almost perfect whe tightened all the way down.

 

If the law in Mich. won't let you have a shottie shorter than 30" folded I would suggest using the Ace external block with your folder. Yet another plus for that part. Mine is 30 1/8" from the back of the Ace external block to the tip of the threaded muzzle.

Of course if you already have no tang that's too bad.

 

I know popular opinion is that the external block looks gawdy or whatever but it does allow the stock to sit at the correct angle (not jacked up in the back like it was run over by a truck) and it also allows better access to the sidrail. Tromix uses a special custom made rear block that corrects the angle prob but without it the guns look funky with the internal block IMO.

Link to post
Share on other sites
now that i have it...

anyone got a technique for getting it tight at top dead center...

for that matter do the small vents go up or down?

 

i used teflon tape and stuck the tips in the floor and used the russian bitch as the wrench

but i think the teflon will melt... and possibly loosen anyway

 

 

thanks in advance

 

well... my choices at the hardware store were blue !!!

 

a word to the wise... go ahead and make fun of me... i would...

i shot the "russian bitch " with no ear cover the last time... no biggie

so i did again... FUCK... i can't hear shit right now...

this thing is 10x louder now

 

any suggestions now? pleeeeaaaase

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Chatbox

    Load More
    You don't have permission to chat.
×
×
  • Create New...