Tapco G2 problem

[fossten 1]

I removed the spring from the stock trigger disconnector and I've discovered that its diameter is larger than that of the Tapco G2. Any ideas? I'm thinking of gettin my dremel and boring the hole larger. I could use the old disconnector but I'd have to grind off that hump on the back or else I'll get trigger slap, right?

 

You know what - screw this. This spring flat out DOES NOT FIT the new trigger in any way whatsoever. It's too long, and it's too wide to fit either the recess on the trigger itself or the hole in the disconnector. Figures that Tapco sends me a trigger without a spring assuming that the old spring will work, and of course it doesn't. Now what am I supposed to do?

 

There's been nothing easy about this project so far. Took me an hour to figure out how to get that stupid wire retainer out of the way and pound the pins out.

Edited August 10, 2007 by fossten

[buckandaquarterquarterstaff 5]

I removed the spring from the stock trigger disconnector and I've discovered that its diameter is larger than that of the Tapco G2. Any ideas? I'm thinking of gettin my dremel and boring the hole larger. I could use the old disconnector but I'd have to grind off that hump on the back or else I'll get trigger slap, right?

 

You know what - screw this. This spring flat out DOES NOT FIT the new trigger in any way whatsoever. It's too long, and it's too wide to fit either the recess on the trigger itself or the hole in the disconnector. Figures that Tapco sends me a trigger without a spring assuming that the old spring will work, and of course it doesn't. Now what am I supposed to do?

 

There's been nothing easy about this project so far. Took me an hour to figure out how to get that stupid wire retainer out of the way and pound the pins out.

 

I went to my local hardware store and bought a $3 pack of stainless steel "pen" springs. Kind of take two of them and work them together and shove them into the little tapco hole and you're good to go. I think the 308 has a mammoth spring due to the long trigger on the stocker. I've done that on three rifles and they are all still up and running just fine. Don't sweat the details with an AK there dude...

[keyser223 0]

I also used the spring from a ballpoint pen and it's worked flawlessly for 200 rounds now. The next gunshow you go to, just pick up a regular ak spring so you don't have to pay shipping somewhere. The first conversion takes a couple hours just go slowly and you'll get the hang of it. The next one will go much quicker.

[fossten 1]

I also used the spring from a ballpoint pen and it's worked flawlessly for 200 rounds now. The next gunshow you go to, just pick up a regular ak spring so you don't have to pay shipping somewhere. The first conversion takes a couple hours just go slowly and you'll get the hang of it. The next one will go much quicker.

 

Thanks for the help guys. I guess my frustration's showing through. I took it out on a free pen I got from work though, and busted it in half and harvested the spring. I'm feeling better now. Seems to work ok. When I order from Randy again I'll just order another spring as well.

 

I'm also a little irritated b/c I ordered a FAB collapsible buttstock and got all ready to start and realized it didn't come with a buffer tube. AARRGGHH.

 

Oh well. Tomorrow's another day. It's not like my ammo will be here anytime soon anyway.

[reoiv 1]

I also used the spring from a ballpoint pen and it's worked flawlessly for 200 rounds now. The next gunshow you go to, just pick up a regular ak spring so you don't have to pay shipping somewhere. The first conversion takes a couple hours just go slowly and you'll get the hang of it. The next one will go much quicker.

 

Thanks for the help guys. I guess my frustration's showing through. I took it out on a free pen I got from work though, and busted it in half and harvested the spring. I'm feeling better now. Seems to work ok. When I order from Randy again I'll just order another spring as well.

 

I'm also a little irritated b/c I ordered a FAB collapsible buttstock and got all ready to start and realized it didn't come with a buffer tube. AARRGGHH.

 

Oh well. Tomorrow's another day. It's not like my ammo will be here anytime soon anyway.

 

If you are using a G2 trigger group remember you will have to grind your Hammer to match the stock one otherwise the bolt& bolt carrier will hang up.

 

Take it easy and go slow. I ruined one hammer by grinding to much and the gun would always double tap over and over.

 

Double tapping .308 is a royal pain in the ass when you aren't ready for it.

[fossten 1]

I fitted the hammer in the receiver by itself and noticed where the hump hangs up on the crossbar. I'm going to grind that down. Other than that, though, the hammer looks like it's reasonably similar in shape. I figure polishing it should be enough, no?

[reoiv 1]

I fitted the hammer in the receiver by itself and noticed where the hump hangs up on the crossbar. I'm going to grind that down. Other than that, though, the hammer looks like it's reasonably similar in shape. I figure polishing it should be enough, no?

 

Grinding down the bump and polishing it up works.

 

Just make sure it isn't ground too far down.

 

The test is you should be able to rack the gun pull the trigger and dry fire.

 

Then rack the gun while holding down the trigger and the hammer should be caught by the hook on the disconnecter.

 

Once you let the trigger go the hammer needs to be caught by the trigger hooks.

 

If you let the trigger go and the hammer flies free or isn't caught ever at all after racking, it is time to get another hammer.

[fossten 1]

Hey guys, what's a good paint to buy for the bottom of the receiver under the plate? I also need to touch up a couple of spots where I scratched it while dremeling.

[Montana3gunner 13]

Hey guys, what's a good paint to buy for the bottom of the receiver under the plate? I also need to touch up a couple of spots where I scratched it while dremeling.

 

Depends on what you want. I think Duracoat is a great product, very durable once it cures and no baking. Norrells makes a good product - it requires baking but is cured and tough as hell as soon as it comes out of the oven.

 

If you just want a rattle-can option, some guys have tried the Aluma-hyde II:

 

Brownells Aluma-Hyde II

 

I don't have any experience with it though, so can't offer much input on it.

[fossten 1]

Hey guys, what's a good paint to buy for the bottom of the receiver under the plate? I also need to touch up a couple of spots where I scratched it while dremeling.

 

Depends on what you want. I think Duracoat is a great product, very durable once it cures and no baking. Norrells makes a good product - it requires baking but is cured and tough as hell as soon as it comes out of the oven.

 

If you just want a rattle-can option, some guys have tried the Aluma-hyde II:

 

Brownells Aluma-Hyde II

 

I don't have any experience with it though, so can't offer much input on it.

 

Any chance I can find this stuff at Lowe's, or am I going to have to order it?

[G O B 3,516]

For a quick fix use Brownells touch-up pen in semiflat black.

[fossten 1]

I picked up a can of high heat paint from Lowe's - you know, the kind used for barbeques and such. Worked great, only took about 5 minutes to dry.

[reoiv 1]

I picked up a can of high heat paint from Lowe's - you know, the kind used for barbeques and such. Worked great, only took about 5 minutes to dry.

 

That is exactly what I used as well.

 

Works great and looks good too.

[Vermiform 26]

I picked up a can of high heat paint from Lowe's - you know, the kind used for barbeques and such. Worked great, only took about 5 minutes to dry.

 

That is exactly what I used as well.

 

Works great and looks good too.

 

+1

 

I did the same on my x39 conversion. Heat hasn't affected it a bit. 1k rounds through it and it looks great. I wonder if I should go ahead and clean it now (Just kidding, I cleaned it after I hit the 1000 round mark )

[Montana3gunner 13]

I picked up a can of high heat paint from Lowe's - you know, the kind used for barbeques and such. Worked great, only took about 5 minutes to dry.

 

That is exactly what I used as well.

 

Works great and looks good too.

 

+1

 

I did the same on my x39 conversion. Heat hasn't affected it a bit. 1k rounds through it and it looks great. I wonder if I should go ahead and clean it now (Just kidding, I cleaned it after I hit the 1000 round mark )

 

How does that paint hold up to some of the gun cleaners?

[simon_sw 0]

Got the G2 kit, new axis pins, and the retaining plate on Saturday. Went to work on the Saiga on Sunday. Ground the hammer down in the front to clear the cross member in the receiver.

 

Put the whole rifle back together, and now the problem I am having is that sometimes upon returning to battery, the charging handle/bolt seems to get hung up sometimes, not all the time. It will work fine a few times and then maybe one it'll kinda hang up. The hangup can be released by just pulling bolt back a little and it returns to battery. I checked the other thread that mentions the return to battery issue, but that members problems with the bolt returning to battery doesn't seem to be my problem.

 

Now my question is does this mean I have to grind the front of the hammer to clear the bolt, or is it another problem?

[fossten 1]

Got the G2 kit, new axis pins, and the retaining plate on Saturday. Went to work on the Saiga on Sunday. Ground the hammer down in the front to clear the cross member in the receiver.

 

Put the whole rifle back together, and now the problem I am having is that sometimes upon returning to battery, the charging handle/bolt seems to get hung up sometimes, not all the time. It will work fine a few times and then maybe one it'll kinda hang up. The hangup can be released by just pulling bolt back a little and it returns to battery. I checked the other thread that mentions the return to battery issue, but that members problems with the bolt returning to battery doesn't seem to be my problem.

 

Now my question is does this mean I have to grind the front of the hammer to clear the bolt, or is it another problem?

 

That's what I did. The angle on the new hammer is steeper than the angle on the old hammer, so I ground out a shallower angle that matches the angle on the old hammer. Then I polished the crap out of it and now the bolt doesn't hang up.

 

I have to say now that I'm finished that I'm glad I bought the G2 trigger. It is such a light, smooth trigger pull and I saved 50 bucks over the RSA trigger.

Edited August 20, 2007 by fossten

[simon_sw 0]

Thanks Fossten! I just wanted to confirm what I was thinking before I start grinding away at the face of the hammer. My safety lever actually does work to my suprise, I was expecting that it was going to be useless.

 

As for the hammer,you know how the old carpenter saying goes, it's easier to remove material than to add material. I really wanted to avoid having to buy a new hammer, so I figured I would rather be safe than sorry. I agree about the Tapco being a great deal, esp from midway for 29.99.

 

I picked up the retaining plate, the trigger group, and also a few part for my glock to save on shipping. WHAT A DIFFERENCE the G2 makes over that stock long thing that Izmash calls a trigger. Just worked the trigger a few times without the bolt installed, but the trigger already feels much cleaner, smoother, and just plain looks better!!

 

By the way did anyone else feel there's a little too much side to side play with the trigger? For my install I noticed I was able to wiggle the trigger about maybe a 1/4". I will probably add some washers to shim it in the center.

[fossten 1]

Thanks Fossten! I just wanted to confirm what I was thinking before I start grinding away at the face of the hammer. My safety lever actually does work to my suprise, I was expecting that it was going to be useless.

 

As for the hammer,you know how the old carpenter saying goes, it's easier to remove material than to add material. I really wanted to avoid having to buy a new hammer, so I figured I would rather be safe than sorry. I agree about the Tapco being a great deal, esp from midway for 29.99.

 

I picked up the retaining plate, the trigger group, and also a few part for my glock to save on shipping. WHAT A DIFFERENCE the G2 makes over that stock long thing that Izmash calls a trigger. Just worked the trigger a few times without the bolt installed, but the trigger already feels much cleaner, smoother, and just plain looks better!!

 

By the way did anyone else feel there's a little too much side to side play with the trigger? For my install I noticed I was able to wiggle the trigger about maybe a 1/4". I will probably add some washers to shim it in the center.

 

Using the sleeve that came with the trigger, I have no side play.

 

I think I'm going to get a G2 for my AK74. I shouldn't have to modify it to get it to work on that rifle, since it's designed for the AK and my 74 doesn't have a crossbar.