Silver soldering

[lammy 1]

I've seen on some other forums people using silver solder for joining FSB's to gas tubes. Is the shock factor of the 12GA a consideration against using silver solder for something like HK type sights? I don't have welding equipment, but I have a maap torch.

[vjor 2]

Brother, I will use high temp silver solder, that's how ribs on some shotguns are install

and the mapp gas is ok , but I will use a oxygen and mapp gas kit. Not just the map gas alone.

 

I have a Oxy acetylene rig, but have a oxy mapp gas little rig too and use it some times, it cost

like 50 bucks the rig but will heat stuff were you want the heat, better than just map gas and heat the hold part

by the time you are done.

 

Here is a link to a silver solder paste silver solder paste

 

I have use silvaloy wire

use ultra flux with the silvaloy.

 

 

Brother, the scoop is to heat the parts and let the silver solder flow between the parts, not apply direct heat

to the silver solder like people do and end with a mountain of silver solder all over your parts.

 

If I was you, I will use the all ready mix flux and silver solder for a tight fit STL 1205 SILVER BRAZE

but remember if you heat the hold part you can Anneal the part. You will be playing with

temps about 1100 to 1200 degrees in there. Yes the stuff can get cherry red before the solder flows.

 

Like I say, better use Oxy mapp gas rig and concentrate the heat were you want it than the mapp gas torch alone

it will heat the whole part by the time you are done, same with B tanks.

 

By the way apply heat to the big parts first, and latter to the little parts, will take more to heat the big part

than the little part, you don't want to toast the sight tower and the gas block still to cold for the solder to flow on it

if that is what you planing to do.

 

You can use low temp silver solder,400 to 600 degrees, but is less silver a lot cheaper, but don't take stress to good

and some times it will crack or the part will come off as you shoot the gun.

 

Low temp silver solder from 5% to 10% silver on it, high temp silver solder like 40% to 55%

 

Hi-force44 low temp silver solder

 

5% low temp silver solder

 

comet flux for silver solder

 

Please dont use any silver solder, some times you will find silver solder at your loco hardware store

but usually it will crack really easy under stress .

 

By the way I have use low temp solder too, but all depends were the part is going to be on the gun

and how much stress it will take. And how much silver solder it can take. Like if the part in question

will use a lot of silver solder to be install it may work, but were tight fit is require and will take

just a little solder for the part to be install, I use high temp. You will be depending on the solder to

hold the part.

 

 

 

 

Just my 2 cents. Hope it will help any.

 

Disclaimer, not responsible for flying front sights, muzzle brakes and other objects

found 15 feet from the gun on the range.

Edited January 18, 2008 by vjor

[taurussvt 0]

If you were gonna use silver solder paste on a muzzle brake, how would you apply it? The only way I can thread my barrel in New Jersey is to have a brake permanently installed on it. I was figuring I'd thread the barrel, put some silver solder paste on the threads, thread the brake on, and then heat the shit out of it. Am I going in the right direction with this, or should it be applied to the point where the brake and barrel come together?

[1liter 20]

Could be wrong, but I think you can just spot weld in the 12,3,6,9 positions or something like that.

[vjor 2]

If you were gonna use silver solder paste on a muzzle brake, how would you apply it? The only way I can thread my barrel in New Jersey is to have a brake permanently installed on it. I was figuring I'd thread the barrel, put some silver solder paste on the threads, thread the brake on, and then heat the shit out of it. Am I going in the right direction with this, or should it be applied to the point where the brake and barrel come together?

 

Well is more ways to skin a cat, I have use flux and silvaloy permanent install brakes

on gun, Yes you can blast the threats on the brake and on the rifle, clean with acetone

flux it and solder it, Or on the Saiga leave the sleeve on the FSB clean it with sand paper

get a muzzle brake boar out to about .004 to .006 over the out side diameter of the sleeve

clean the inside of the muzzle brake and silver solder it on the sleeve of the FSB.

 

 

OK. now if you want to go with the threats on the gun, they are clean of any paint as

you threat the barrel, get the muzzle brake, clean the threats of any paint, fit the muzzle brake

to the barrel, look were you want it, remove brake if you use the flux that comes with the silver solder (premix)

flux barrel threats and muzzle brake threats, but on the muzzle brake just use the flux on half

of the threats, the ones from the end of the muzzle brake to the middle ( like that as you install the

brake on the barrel, the flux dont come all the way out into the end of the barrel and have

dingle berries as you solder it on the end of your gun), OK install the brake on the barrel, as you install

it, you will see that some flux and silver solder will be push out on the barrel by the brake, well

clean the extra excess you don't want it running all over the barrel of the gun.

 

 

Now make sure the muzzle is were you want it, and the top of it align were it supposed to go,

now comes the fire good chant ( not necessary if you don't know it), any way as everything

is align and right, the gun is hold steady on wise or other contraction to avoid it from moving around

you light your torch, start to heat the bottom of the brake ( heat rises) were the barrel goes into the brake

and you work your way to left and right of the brake, leave top for last, brake will be king of cherry

red by now and the mix solder and flux will flowing. Now I will use high temp

silver solder on guns like the AK because you can heat the barrel real hot in no time specially

if running few mags true it real quick, now on bolt guns I have use low temp 600 degrees

for sight, kind of flash hiders and other stuff and no problemos.

 

Must of my silver solder have been with flux and silvaloy wire, not the premix stuff on brakes,

if you flux it right when you apply the silver solder, the solder will fallow the heat thanks

to capillary action, the flux helps capillary action, in few the piece have to be hot for

the solder to melt on contact to the piece and for it to flow, you don't apply the torch to the solder

it self but to the pieces been solder.

 

Now some stuff like the muzzle brake can get annealed (soft), one thing I will do is heat the piece

again to lesser heat used to melt the solder and cool the part on oil, after that let it sit on oven

for about one hour at 300 degrees and you done ( no I am not Heat treatment expert )

but will restore your brake, and yes I have seen brakes not threaded and no problems

at all after been silver solder.

 

The problem with the premix stuff is that you may need to retouch it with wire silver solder

because as you install the brake on the barrel it may to much stuff out, but use your common sense

and you can see if it will work to your satisfaction or not.

 

If go with over size brake on the sleeve of the Saiga with over the diameter .004 to .006

over the sleeve, it will be really tight I mean press fit tight, but as you solder it

it will be nice and look like one piece with the FSB, one trick if you think is to tight for you to install it,

is to get a plumber copper fitting wire brush ( 1/2 inch) cut the handle install the

wire brush on a drill and past it on the inside of the brake few times ( don't over do it)

it will take some metal off, enough for you to install the brake on the Saiga sleeve

and solder it. And always fit stuff before you go hacking at it to much.

 

If of any help this is what I can do with out been there, if I was you

I will try silver solder on stuff before I got into touching the gun if you

have never done it. Go to home depot or lowe's or your hardware store

get black iron (no galvanize) nipples and coupling in 1/2 inch clean them like you will

with your muzzle brake and rifle barrel and silver solder them

to see how you handle it and how hot things have to be for it to work.

 

2 cents of silver solder on a drop.

 

 

PS: Dinzag can over bore any brake to any measure you want, like for over the Saiga FSB sleeve.

Edited January 18, 2008 by vjor

[lammy 1]

Damn Vjor, you are a wealth of information! I appreciate it, and when I get some time, head out and get some scrap parts to practice on.

[vjor 2]

Damn Vjor, you are a wealth of information! I appreciate it, and when I get some time, head out and get some scrap parts to practice on.

 

 

No bro I am not wealth of information, just learned the hard way, with costly mistakes

and money waste, thats me. One thing I learned to try on scrap before try new stuff

on my guns, plus learn from other people mistakes and experience.

 

BY the way good luck brother, hey get a nice pair of letter gloves, like pig skin ones

that may save you from having some scars and the leather on the pig skin

is comfortable and let you use the torch no problems, not in the way like

heavy leather gloves and still give you protection against burns.

Edited January 20, 2008 by vjor

[lelandeod 179]

How much silver solder should I order to coat one barrel?

 

1/2 ounce? 1 ounce?

[aresv 49]

How much silver solder should I order to coat one barrel?

 

1/2 ounce? 1 ounce?

 

You want to coat a whole barrel with silver? What?

[Frank Rizzo 8]

How much silver solder should I order to coat one barrel?

 

1/2 ounce? 1 ounce?

 

You want to coat a whole barrel with silver? What?

 

 

bling bling