Stock slap

[Steve in Allentown, PA 5]

I have converted several Saiga 308s and put several hundred rounds through them without incident or complaint so I thought my IZ-109 conversion would follow the same path.

 

A little extra drilling and cutting was required with the 12 guage but nothing beyond the capabilities of my trusty Dremel tool.

 

Instead of installing a Red Star trigger like I did for the 308s I put in a Tapco G2 FCG. I experienced a couple of trigger slaps with the Tapco at first but easily fixed that.

 

I really like the fixed Ace AK skeleton stock on the 308s so I installed one on the 12 guage using the internal receiver block. Yesterday I was shooting Winchester bulk pack 7 1/2 birdshot on gas setting #1. Unlike the 308s, I'm getting noticeably smacked on the cheek by the 12 guage. When I shoot I maintain a good cheek weld with the stock but it doesn't make any difference how tight I lean into it, I still get smacked.

 

Call me a wussie if you have to but this is my first experience getting cheek slapped (by a firearm) and I'd rather not put up with it.

 

Does anyone have any experience with this phenomenon and how to make it stop?

[gtnichols 51]

I saw a foam cover for the toprail of the stock bar you have shown,

I can't say I have ever heard of someone putting their face on any part of a 12 gauge before.

Maybe you need an elevated cheek rest so the kick back is more linear, or perhaps one of those muzzle breaks that pulls the S12 forward and down rdeucing recoil,..

Just some thoughts.

GG :chris:

[Ronswin 26]

I've added the same Ace side-folder stock and significantly lightened my Saiga-12 for competition. I don't really feel the recoil nor the stock slap if it occurs with me. Now I've always pulled the buttstock in hard against the shoulder and habitually crouch forward when shooting from standing or while moving. See if your Saiga will operate 100% while set on mag and see if there is less recoil.

[Steve in Allentown, PA 5]

I forgot to mention that I have a Tromix shark brake installed on the barrel.

 

I have to admit I'm more of a rilfe guy than a shotgun guy and I was taught by Uncle Sam to maintain a consistent cheek weld. Maybe it's time to learn something new. The problem is it's difficult lining up the sights without getting my cheek down onto the stock.

 

A piece of foam might do the trick if I can figure out the technical aspects of attaching it properly.

[pedal2alloy 206]

I forgot to mention that I have a Tromix shark brake installed on the barrel.

 

I have to admit I'm more of a rilfe guy than a shotgun guy and I was taught by Uncle Sam to maintain a consistent cheek weld. Maybe it's time to learn something new. The problem is it's difficult lining up the sights without getting my cheek down onto the stock.

 

A piece of foam might do the trick if I can figure out the technical aspects of attaching it properly.

 

 

Try taking the brake off to see how it affects the situation.

[Cobra 76 two 2,677]

The foam tube that is sold for the stock should fix that problem for you. You might even try doing what some others have done and wrap the top bar with para chord. You can pick up enough to do the whole stock and lots more for about 5 bucks at a gunshow.

To install the foam pad just knock out the pins holding the butt plate to the bars and remove it. Then you can slide the seamless foam tube over it without having to cut down the whole length of it.

[Azrial 1,091]

I would try the ITC Cheek rest, $25.00 from DS Arms. I have one on my Para FAL folding Stock. It is split down the middle and designed to strap on. This is the way to go if you you do not want to take your stock apart.

 

For the record, cheek weld is the proper way to mount a shotgun. Most shotguns do not employ a rear sight and depend on a consistent cheek weld to achieve a consistent accuracy. Most shotguns are not intended to be "aimed" they are interned to be "pointed," a consistent cheek weld is required for this to be a workable aiming system.

 

Cheek slap is a function of several problems. Mechanically it will be more of a problem for some people, with the same stock then it is others. It is caused by a variety of things, how tightly the shooter holds the long arm to your shoulder/head, the length of your shoulder to elbow, the length of your forearm, and the angle of the centerline of the stock to the centerline of the barreled receiver. Some can be corrected, some can not.

 

HTH

[oldandslow 3]

I started with a recoil pad on my Saiga-12.

Then I started training to increase my reload speed. At the beep shoot at steel plate, reload 10 round magazine shoot a second plate. The rubber from the recoil pad stuck to my shirt while moving the gun from shooting to reload and back to shooting position. I removed it.

 

I try to practice every day with 50 rounds. After a couple of weeks of practice, I don't notice the recoil. Sometimes in my haste to get a sight picture on the second target, I don't even have the gun on my shoulder.

 

My point (can't make a point without telling a story), is that if you shoot a lot, you get used to it. If you don't...

 

By the way, I have seen 2.56 seconds shot to shot.

[Steve in Allentown, PA 5]

Try taking the brake off to see how it affects the situation.

 

So I took the brake off and went to the range. Guess what. The smack of the stock against my cheek was almost completely eliminated. All I can figure is that as the gas was directed up by the holes in the brake it forced the muzzle down (a good thing) which somehow caused the butt to jump up which then smacked my cheek.

 

However, for this scenario to work it would mean the gun must be using my support hand as a pivot point.

 

I will continue to experiment.

[HillBilly2 9]

Try taking the brake off to see how it affects the situation.

 

So I took the brake off and went to the range. Guess what. The smack of the stock against my cheek was almost completely eliminated. All I can figure is that as the gas was directed up by the holes in the brake it forced the muzzle down (a good thing) which somehow caused the butt to jump up which then smacked my cheek.

 

However, for this scenario to work it would mean the gun must be using my support hand as a pivot point.

 

I will continue to experiment.

 

 

Not so much your support hand as just rotate around the center of mass. I'd try the foam. You could go to Home Depot and get a piece of pipe insulation foam just to try. Split it and tape it on.

[Seif1 0]

Here is the foam that should work for you (don't use the stuff from Home Depot).

 

Look towards the bottom of the pager (there are three sizes).

 

Click Here

[patriot 7,197]

Pipe insulation foam will work fine. It's just not as snazzy.

[uzitiger 193]

You can go to your local rubber company dealer and get a piece of EPDM rubber in 40 durometer and make your own pad.