Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted August 13, 2008 Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 Well I finally scored a sweet old shotgun shell reloader, a VersaMec 700! It looks like this... http://www.mecreloaders.com/ProductLine/Versamec700Pre82.asp Thanks SKS762! I've been wanting to reload my own shells for decades. Now I finally can. I got a bunch of old stuff from my dad too so I could play around with this thing. He gave me an old box full of paper hulls and wads, a can of powder, some primers and his old Lee loaders. Will these old wads still do the trick? Do you really need a shot cup? I've got a ton of hulls I've been saving so I'll probably just hang on to these old paper ones. I found a bag of shot at the gun show this past weekend so I'm ready to start! Eventually I plan to make my own shot since this stuff is so expensive to buy, especially if you have to get it shipped. With belt fed frog's help, I found this cool little device that they used to make and sell. I'm going to try to locate one (either working or in need of repair) and get to work making my own shot. It's pretty cool and easy to use. Hell it's got my name right on it! I plan on getting a slug mold and some buckshot molds to go with my newest hobby. Thought I would start here... http://shop2.mailordercentral.com/bpicart/...ts.asp?dept=198 A question for you guys that know about this stuff..... I managed to obtain a couple of 5 gallon buckets full of wheel weights to melt down (275 lbs worth! ). That should last me awhile I think... I've read on some other forums about how to melt them down into ingots to use for making the shot. I have all different kinds of weights mixed together here so should I separate them into like types before melting, or does that matter? Some are new and shiny looking, some are really nasty, and some are even painted. Should I soak them all in degreaser before I begin melting down initially? What about the painted ones? Will all that mess separate anyway? I used to help my grandfather (well I mostly watched...I was about 10) melt down wheel weights and pour his own fishing sinkers. I've still got his old molds for those and thought I would start out by running a few batches of those just to get the hang of it. I don't remember if he did anything to clean the lead though.... What do you guys do? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nsa400 11 Posted August 13, 2008 Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 Cobra that is awsome. Just put the ww in that cast iron pot and melt away. All the paint and oil and whatnot will cook off. The metal will float to the top just skim off. The links will give you all the info you will need. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/ http://goatlipstips.cas-town.com/index.html Goat lips has alot of pics and info. Have fun and be safe. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
macbeau 902 Posted August 13, 2008 Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 (edited) Nice find, Mr. Shotmaster... As for the lead; as long as you're just casting for modern powder, you can mix it together. If you were casting for blackpowder, I'd say get a hardness tester and sort it. Wheel weight is a pretty consistent mix of lead, antimony and linotype. When you do start melting it into ingots (recomended to remove some of the imputities), get some lead flux and add to the pot to help raise the trash to the top of the pot (to skim off). I use muffin tins to make ingots as they fit in my pot better. Also, if you want to harden the shot (or slugs), drop them in a 5 gal bucket of water as they come out of the machine (or mold). it'll make them about 40-50% harder. On the shot cup issue... it'll help keep the pellets closest to the bore from getting flat spots on them as they exit the barrel and those pellets will fly straighter for longer. shot buffers are used to keep pellets from compressing against one another dring firing, also resulting in flat spots. Felt & fiber wads are fine, but I's chuck the paper hulls. I recommend getting a good shotshell load manual. [(edit) - and get some nice fresh power & primers too... Old components like that can be scary...] any other questions, just let me know. Macbeau sends... Edited August 13, 2008 by macbeau Quote Link to post Share on other sites
loki0629 55 Posted August 13, 2008 Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 Just out of curiosity do you think that powder is still good? What exactly is the shelf life of powder anyway? Funny how you were able to find a "Shannon Shotmaster" ad. It seems fitting that you'd own it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted August 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 Just out of curiosity do you think that powder is still good? What exactly is the shelf life of powder anyway? Funny how you were able to find a "Shannon Shotmaster" ad. It seems fitting that you'd own it. Dude I HAVE to find one of those somewhere for sure! I don't care if it's burnt out and I have to fix it! Y'all keep your eyes peeled for me ok? I'll pay good $ for one of those. Thanks for the info macbeau and nsa400! Wow there's some really cool setups on that forum. I have a feeling I'm getting into something almost as addictive as Saigas...uh ohhhhh..... One good thing I already see though.... :super: I FINALLY FOUND A GOOD EXCUSE TO GET MYSELF A TURKEY FRIER!!! :super: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
macbeau 902 Posted August 13, 2008 Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 THIS PLACE has some really cool and interesting SG reloading stuff (including slug reloading components). I get most of my shotshell stuff from them or Midway. Red Dot, Sporting Clays and Blue Dot are awesome powders to start with. Just get a good manual because the hull, wad, primer, shot weight and crimp all make a huge difference. (more so than in centerfire rifle/pistol reloading). Macbeau sends... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bvamp 604 Posted August 13, 2008 Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 go buy a case of the better quality winchester AA loads, and use those for reloading. I have a contractor bag full of them and 3" hulls sitting, waiting for me to start reloading again... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DS12 1 Posted August 13, 2008 Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 wow that's awesome! PPLEASE keep us updated! been contemplating reloading but just not sure where to get lead and stuff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nsa400 11 Posted August 13, 2008 Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 Cobra macbeau is right Red Dot, Sporting Clays and Blue Dot are awesome powders to start with. If you can try to buy powder and primers in bulk. The lyman shotshell reloaading handbook 5th edition is one of the guides I use. Tons of info. If you need some recipes, reloading data to start with let me know. Oh yeh when you get set up show pics please. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
belt fed frog 56 Posted August 15, 2008 Report Share Posted August 15, 2008 i started loading shot shells when i was 7 yrs old back when they were paper it was a long time before i saw my first plastic hull ,i always use Hi Skor 700X in 12 gauge that lead pot and dipper need some TLC gither glass bead blast or use pool acid to clean the rust off then rub with bee`s wax to keep it from rusting , i use Bee`s wax as flux and yes it does smoke ,teaches you how to stay away from the lead fumes AH HA HA HA HA HA HA a new convert to casting and reloading shot shells a little trick after the star pre crimp hit the shell crimp area with a low temp heat gun or hair dryer just before you crimp that will set them and keep your pellets from dribbling out of the crimp go for it bro but get the shot shell loading manuals they will serve you well and keep you from blowing a barrel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gtnichols 51 Posted August 15, 2008 Report Share Posted August 15, 2008 (edited) The fire cleans the lead. the paint burns off watch out and don't boil it. sometimes you have to scrape a crappy layer of junk off the top crap,..it always floats to the top scrape ,.. then pour the pure stuff,..most things float that don't burn off on molten lead. mix it all together the Zinc, lead, and,.... well whatever that other heavy low melting temp metal is (commonly found in galvanization oh yeah Tin) all work well together. preheating the molds will provide better detail if possible. (and all the good stuff Macbaeu sends said in the other recent posting, great info there). Oh yeah, and don't breathe the white smoke,.. whatever you do,.. Edited August 15, 2008 by Gas Giant Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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