deavis 0 Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 Everything seems like it would be much easier for me to put my safety in LAST (fighting the other parts in/connecting to a Chinese style L wire retaining spring/TAPCO axis pin retainer, etc...etc...) - there is some mention of marking the BHO where the safety slides through to grind clearance and allow this but it does NOT seem to be commonly touted as "the way." Curious as to why not??? any "I wouldn't do that if I was you because.....xxxxxx" If there is no reason not to I am inclined to fire up the dremel... just want to check before making an error.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Twinsen 86 Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 If you don't have a LRBHO, I can see no downside to this. Your BHO is just a bar that holds your bolt back, it takes no stress. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
corbin 621 Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 (edited) I did it on mine and I'm soooo glad I did. It makes assembly much easier IMO. I'm looking to get a retainer plate to replace that damn wire. You HAVE to put the safety in last with one of those plates. My advice is to go slow and start grinding as low as you can to preserve the strength of the upper area that holds the bolt back. It's better to only take as much as you need and leave more on the BHO for structural integrity than to weaken the BHO unnecessarily. Push the BHO upward first though. It leaves more material towards the top where it contacts the bolt carrier. Then use a marker to mark what needs to be removed through the safety keyhole. Good luck Corbin Edited March 2, 2009 by Corbin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
runofthemill 0 Posted March 4, 2009 Report Share Posted March 4, 2009 What did you use, some sort of Dremel attachment? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
corbin 621 Posted March 4, 2009 Report Share Posted March 4, 2009 Yeah, I used a dremel cutting wheel. Pretty easy really. I can take a pic and post if you like. Corbin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Azrial 1,091 Posted March 5, 2009 Report Share Posted March 5, 2009 Just drill a hole in the BHO, take a Dremel with a cutoff wheel and cut from the drilled hole to the outside to make a slot. Then just clean it up with a file. Easy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chucku 0 Posted March 17, 2009 Report Share Posted March 17, 2009 I used the bulgarian wire retainer and didnt have to grind the levers on my .308 or my s12. The wire retainer isnt hard to install and cheaper. If your smart enough to mod your saiga, the wire retainer should be no problem. Ive used the retainer plates and while there easy to install Ive read that they can allow the pins to rotate and cause wear to the hole in the reciever. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted March 17, 2009 Report Share Posted March 17, 2009 (edited) Ive used the retainer plates and while there easy to install Ive read that they can allow the pins to rotate and cause wear to the hole in the reciever. The pins are supposed to rotate. You are a victim of the "build your own AK" boom myth started when people dien't heat treat their bent receivers properly and got egged pivot holes. It didn't help that many tiypes of steel were used in these flats, either. Some of the creppier manufacturers still don't do adequate heat treating on their receivers. Saiga receivers are properly heat treated at the factory and you'll never have egging from the normal movement of the pivot pins. Edited March 17, 2009 by nalioth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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