counter_sniper 0 Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 I just finished doing the conversion and i am having troulbe with the pin that hold the trigger and hammer in. They come loose when I work the action, any help would be great. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
havok 21 Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 (edited) You need to get a a retaining plate or a shepereds crook or some e clips from your local homedepot or lowes. Edited April 23, 2009 by havok Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 I suspect you forgot to replace something, when you put it all back together . . . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gothchick 0 Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Very nice diagrams. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vintagedude88 16 Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 My Dinzag conversion kit came with hitch pins and e-clips. The e-clips didn't seem to work because they seem to be too small for the pin's diameter. The hitch pins worked but I question the reliability. I am wondering if I should get a shepherds crook or a retaining plate. Which is better? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 My Dinzag conversion kit came with hitch pins and e-clips. The e-clips didn't seem to work because they seem to be too small for the pin's diameter. The hitch pins worked but I question the reliability. I am wondering if I should get a shepherds crook or a retaining plate. Which is better? Unless you plan on beating the weapon into a misshapen metal stick, the hitch pins will work fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 I like shepards crooks, that is what Uncle Mikael used. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
corbin 621 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 I have used shepards hooks and retaining plates, as well as the stock Saiga wire. The plate is my favorite because you don't need any tools to install/remove it. You need to cut a notch in your BHO though. Not hard at all. Corbin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChileRelleno 7,071 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 (edited) Retaining Plate... So easy/fast to remove/install. Modify the BHO, and you can strip and reassemble the FCG in 5 minutes. Edited April 24, 2009 by ChileRelleno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nailbomb 10,221 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 (edited) My Dinzag conversion kit came with hitch pins and e-clips. The e-clips didn't seem to work because they seem to be too small for the pin's diameter. The hitch pins worked but I question the reliability. I am wondering if I should get a shepherds crook or a retaining plate. Which is better? I have used both, i prefer the plate. I was slow to the punch +1 to chilie Edited April 24, 2009 by Nailbomb Quote Link to post Share on other sites
counter_sniper 0 Posted April 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 (edited) Thanks for all the good info!! how does the bho go back in? Edited April 24, 2009 by counter_sniperf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gothchick 0 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 I've used the shepards crook and tapco plate. Either one works well. But if I had a choice, I'd probably go for the plate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChileRelleno 7,071 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Thanks for all the good info!! how does the bho go back in?My way...Take a piece of 40lb test fishing line, loop it thru the BHO spring. Drop it atop the BHO slot, long end forward/short end rearward, tight against the receiver, pull down & forward on line compressing the spring against the floor of the rcvr. Insert FCG, insert pin thru FCG & thru BHO spring loop. Place BHO in slot, inbetween spring/FCG. Remove line from spring and rethread from bottom of slot, up & around short leg of spring, lift short end onto BHO. Install hammer, insert pin thru hammer and other end of BHO. You can start with the hammer first if you like. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
goldenman 1 Posted April 25, 2009 Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 Thanks for all the good info!! how does the bho go back in?My way...Take a piece of 40lb test fishing line, loop it thru the BHO spring. Drop it atop the BHO slot, long end forward/short end rearward, tight against the receiver, pull down & forward on line compressing the spring against the floor of the rcvr. Insert FCG, insert pin thru FCG & thru BHO spring loop. Place BHO in slot, inbetween spring/FCG. Remove line from spring and rethread from bottom of slot, up & around short leg of spring, lift short end onto BHO. Install hammer, insert pin thru hammer and other end of BHO. You can start with the hammer first if you like. Thanks for the info. nalioth the diagrams and the picture are very helpful. SOMEONE NEEDS TO MAKE A VIDEO OF THE CONVERSION OF AN S12 AND SHOW ALL THE DIFFERENT PARTS POSSIBILITIES FOR THE INTERNALS. I'm sure many newbie's would buy it, I would, so your guaranteed at least one sale. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vintagedude88 16 Posted April 25, 2009 Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 (edited) I followed Gregs video and used a needle nose plier to grab the loop and push down onto it till it meets the pin. Prior to doing so, I also bent the spring like Greg said in his video to help. I found out the hard way which side is the long side and which side is the short side when I installed the spring backwards, too much tension. How I did it was I bent the long side up a bit so that it would slide more easily forward as the spring is pushed down. I then bent the short side down and towards the trigger such that it would grab the tab on the BHO lever more securely such that it would be less likely to slide off as the spring is pushed down. I then grabbed it firmly with the needle nose and pushed down like in Greg's video and pushed the trigger pin in. I made the mistake of not putting the hitch pin on after this because the bends on the spring had a tendency to push the trigger pin back out. Once the hitch pin was in, it was solid. I was able to shoot mine today to test the conversion and it worked great. However, I may opt for the retaining plate like everyone said so that I wouldn't have to hassel with the hitch pins. One last thing although it may be a bit off topic, I had trouble putting the bolt carrier back into the gun because it kept jamming against the hammer. I even took a Dremel to grind down about .100" off the carrier and it still didn't work. I then realized that the hammer wasn't able to push all the way down into the receiver because the forward trigger guard screw was too long and pushed against the hammer. Shortened the screw and it was back together in no time. Make sure you watch out for that. However if you're using the Tromix trigger guard that problem may not exist at all because from the looks of it, the screw goes in from the inside of the receiver onto the nutserts on the trigger guard, hence no screw problem. Edited April 25, 2009 by FrustratedInCali Quote Link to post Share on other sites
corbin 621 Posted April 25, 2009 Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 I have a Tromix TG and you're right, with the cap head screw going in from the inside of the receiver, it's not an issue. On mine though, I put a slightly longer screw in from the bottom and loctited a nut on the inside. Extremely solid and it clears the hammer just fine. As for the retainer plate and slotting the BHO, that's a super simple job with a dremel. Drill a hole, then extend it to the edge to make a U-shaped slot. 5 minutes, no problem. Once it's done, you don't need tools to take everything apart or put them back together. The possible exception could be the dental floss/fishing line for the BHO spring, if you have the BHO. Corbin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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