Raoul_Duke 113 Posted May 2, 2009 Report Share Posted May 2, 2009 (edited) Edited May 3, 2009 by Raoul_Duke Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted May 2, 2009 Report Share Posted May 2, 2009 1) what is the thickness of your "shims"? I suspect some of the shotty guys might want to reuse their safety stop, so they'll need a measurement to use something else. There is also the fact that lots of folks don't own both types of Saiga. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Raoul_Duke 113 Posted May 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2009 (edited) 1) what is the thickness of your "shims"? I suspect some of the shotty guys might want to reuse their safety stop, so they'll need a measurement to use something else. There is also the fact that lots of folks don't own both types of Saiga. Just a hair under 3/64" each, with my cheap dial caliper. The "shims" were cut from my Klinton plates. Assuming the Russians made them all the same, they should all be the same . . . Good thought though. And I know some of us don't own both types, I was just pointing out you could get 2 of the 3 pieces needed from an S-12 plate, the Saiga-12 being the main attraction to/for/of this site. Edited May 2, 2009 by Raoul_Duke Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Raoul_Duke 113 Posted June 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 Seriously ? . ? . ? There's no feedback for this? Good or bad? No suggestions or ideas? With all the opinionative people around here I expected a, "That's great!" or a, "That sucks!" before too long. nalioth caught me forgetting to mention the shim thickness . . . Nobody else have any input? I'm not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing . . . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bayoupiper 738 Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 I see one glaring ommission from you Redneck Tutorial! There is no "Here, hold my beer".......anywhere in it. Whether or not many people own both types, these types of threads with pics DO make you think. And could be just what the next great builder needs to start down the path. ....To the dark side, and AKs!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
oxyehho 8 Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 Seriously ? . ? . ? There's no feedback for this? Good or bad? No suggestions or ideas? With all the opinionative people around here I expected a, "That's great!" or a, "That sucks!" before too long. nalioth caught me forgetting to mention the shim thickness . . . Nobody else have any input? I'm not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing . . . It's def good. I did smthn similar for my buddy at the back site - used a wide shouldered washer - shim is def needed there. Didn't want to do the front one though, since the nut kinda protrudes into the TG space, but the hole is already there, so I can see how it could be tempting... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john762 0 Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 It appears to me that the front & rear shims serve the same purpose as two of the adjustment screws on the RedStar Arms adjustable AK trigger assemblies...perhaps a "blob of mig" will do the same. So far I've seen a "blob of mig" used as a feedramp & as a fix to safety lever/trigger engagement problems....."blob of mig", a little dab will do ya'! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JK-47 33 Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 you could also add material to the trigger itself, rather than the reciver, using a mig welder or similar. Using a double hook trigger in a hole cut for a single hook can be filed down on the second hook elbow slightly to achive the same thing for overtravel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SaigaNoobie 66 Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 I'm the aforementioned member who used epoxy. Mine have held up through about 700 rounds of 12ga so far. Basically I make the shims out of epoxy (two part clay looking shit). I stick it down tight under a pulled trigger, with hammer in the disconnector, then I release the trigger slowly until the discon, allows the hammer to snap back into the trigger.... at this point I pull the trigger tight and allow the epoxy to harden. I've made a perfect, short reset trigger. Similar things can be done with the pull... stick a bed of epoxy down in front of the trigger, pull trigger until hammer releases to the bolt. At least that's how i did it ghetto style. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Raoul_Duke 113 Posted June 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 (edited) I see one glaring ommission from you Redneck Tutorial! There is no "Here, hold my beer".......anywhere in it. HAHA!!! Good one . . . But I don't trust anybody to hold my beer . . . That's why I have this . . . My beer holster. It works better with tall boys or bottles . . . And sorry to hear about your scare the other night. But you know, sometimes a good scare is just what you need to keep you on your toes! . . . And stay thankful!!! Didn't want to do the front one though, since the nut kinda protrudes into the TG space, but the hole is already there, so I can see how it could be tempting... That's why I put it on the outside/bottom of the receiver. It hit the back/bottom side of the hammer on the inside. It appears to me that the front & rear shims serve the same purpose as two of the adjustment screws on the RedStar Arms adjustable AK trigger assemblies...perhaps a "blob of mig" will do the same. So far I've seen a "blob of mig" used as a feedramp & as a fix to safety lever/trigger engagement problems....."blob of mig", a little dab will do ya'! I can't weld worth a damn. That's why I did this, for now. After I learn to weld, I'm doing a proper trigger job on ALL of my AK based firearms. you could also add material to the trigger itself, rather than the reciver, using a mig welder or similar. Using a double hook trigger in a hole cut for a single hook can be filed down on the second hook elbow slightly to achive the same thing for overtravel. See above . . . Damn I wish I could weld. I'll get around to it when my son grows up. No problem, I can wait. I just thought this was a decent idea for now, and for people who don't intend to learn to weld. I'm the aforementioned member who used epoxy. Mine have held up through about 700 rounds of 12ga so far. Basically I make the shims out of epoxy (two part clay looking shit). I stick it down tight under a pulled trigger, with hammer in the disconnector, then I release the trigger slowly until the discon, allows the hammer to snap back into the trigger.... at this point I pull the trigger tight and allow the epoxy to harden. I've made a perfect, short reset trigger. Similar things can be done with the pull... stick a bed of epoxy down in front of the trigger, pull trigger until hammer releases to the bolt. At least that's how i did it ghetto style. Yeah, I knew it was you. I didn't want it to look like I was "callin' you out", so I didn't mention your name. I just don't trust the epoxy, but I'm glad it's working for you! And out of the about 700 rounds, do you have an ballpark idea of how much low and high brass, each? And if it breaks, please let us know. Not to rag on you, just for informational purposes. Edited June 5, 2009 by Raoul_Duke Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TX-Zen 287 Posted June 7, 2009 Report Share Posted June 7, 2009 Raoul and I met up at ASC yesterday and had a heck of a good time, I got to shoot his S12 with this trigger mod...way way cool. It works extremely well and I am thoroughly impressed. I own a variety of AK's and have shot a crapload more but this trigger mod is the neatest one I have seen by far. I never knew an AK trigger could be so sweet (they are what they are) but this mod simply rocks. Will definately be modding my S12 and quite possibly my 5.45 Krink too...the short pull of the trigger makes for a great double tap too, helps you get stay on target better. Z Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Raoul_Duke 113 Posted June 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2009 Thanks TX, I appreciate the kind words. And don't forget the 7.62 with the Tromix Shark Brake . ! . ! . We'll just have to be more careful next time and try not to get in trouble with "the man" . . . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Azrial 1,091 Posted June 13, 2009 Report Share Posted June 13, 2009 While I applaud your idea of reusing cast off junk for this modification, for those without the benefit of multiple Saigas I most point out that the Shims could just as easily be made from pieces of fender washer, with a flat ground on both sides to prevent rotation. ... I just took a look at my gun and realized that a large fender washer could just as easily have a third flat facing the FCG and that by beveling and slowly cutting back on that flat you could limit and control trigger over travel on the forward stroke of the trigger. Like this: Good Idea Raoul_Duke! Thanks for getting me thinking in the right direction! I already limit rearward travel with a pair of small washers on the middle screw of my Saigatech Trigger guard. I assume that it would work with any screw there. Now to go try it! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
oxyehho 8 Posted June 13, 2009 Report Share Posted June 13, 2009 While I applaud your idea of reusing cast off junk for this modification, for those without the benefit of multiple Saigas I most point out that the Shims could just as easily be made from pieces of fender washer, with a flat ground on both sides to prevent rotation.... I just took a look at my gun and realized that a large fender washer could just as easily have a third flat facing the FCG and that by beveling and slowly cutting back on that flat you could limit and control trigger over travel on the forward stroke of the trigger. Like this: Good Idea Raoul_Duke! Thanks for getting me thinking in the right direction! I already limit rearward travel with a pair of small washers on the middle screw of my Saigatech Trigger guard. I assume that it would work with any screw there. Now to go try it! Azrial - that is exactly what I did with SaigaTech DIY TG as well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IndyArms 10,186 Posted June 14, 2009 Report Share Posted June 14, 2009 My only thoughts on this... I HATE the look of the NUTS on the outside... are they too big and will they get in the way if you put the nuts on the inside and the screw heads on the outside?!? Just askin... I have never had a problem with putting my nuts on the inside! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
madmax4x4 68 Posted June 14, 2009 Report Share Posted June 14, 2009 My only thoughts on this... I HATE the look of the NUTS on the outside... are they too big and will they get in the way if you put the nuts on the inside and the screw heads on the outside?!? Just askin... I have never had a problem with putting my nuts on the inside! Dogs in a tub Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Raoul_Duke 113 Posted June 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2009 While I applaud your idea of reusing cast off junk for this modification, for those without the benefit of multiple Saigas I most point out that the Shims could just as easily be made from pieces of fender washer, with a flat ground on both sides to prevent rotation.... I just took a look at my gun and realized that a large fender washer could just as easily have a third flat facing the FCG and that by beveling and slowly cutting back on that flat you could limit and control trigger over travel on the forward stroke of the trigger. Like this: Good Idea Raoul_Duke! Thanks for getting me thinking in the right direction! I already limit rearward travel with a pair of small washers on the middle screw of my Saigatech Trigger guard. I assume that it would work with any screw there. Now to go try it! I have done that for an S-12 (since it only has 2 of the harvested shims) and plan to do that on my .308, when I get around to it. The washers are great, but if you use an ACE internal receiver block (I have not used an MSA adapter) you will need to cut/grind off that fourth side off #2/3/4, for the rear FCG shim, because the front, bottom of the receiver block will hit it. Even with all the shims cut from the scrap metal, the front, bottom of the block needs to be cut back a little to go all the way in. I would take a picture of exactly what and were I mean, but all my blocks are loctited in with multiple screws . . . And I haven't used the Saigatech Trigger Guard, but I have done this with the Tromix DIY in the same fashion. And hellz yeah, Azrial, I'm glad it's working for you! Just keep a better eye on this gun! I figured I wasn't the first to have this idea, but I could not find it posted anywhere else, and it worked so good for me, I figured I'd share! Who wouldn't want a better trigger? IMO short throw/reset triggers are "better". My only thoughts on this... I HATE the look of the NUTS on the outside... are they too big and will they get in the way if you put the nuts on the inside and the screw heads on the outside?!? Just askin... I have never had a problem with putting my nuts on the inside! Yeah, I don't like the looks of it either. But like I said, your nut will hit the back of the hammer, not allowing the disconnector to engage the hammer . . . You could paint the nut, I guess . . . You could rivet the shim in . . . Some people seem to think JB weld is good for anything . . . Or ideally, learn to weld and do the trigger job right from the start! I dunno, but then, I have never had a problem putting my nuts out! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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