Darth AkSarBen 20 Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 I have seen on another site for a page by page conversion, and how difficult some of these rivets and pieces are to drill out and remove during the conversion. Saiga 223 conversion page by page and wonderful illustrations. So, I thought I'd post one of the toughest drill bits I have seen, at least the result, here on the forum Guy I know that works for Lawson Products came by a while back and took a grade 8 bolt, which is about as hard as they come for bolts, and put it in the vice and, without so much as a starter punch, began to drill it ON THE SIDE of the bolt until he had gone completely through. Then, he went back in to the same hole and while running the drill, began a side to side motion until he had literally cut the head of the bolt off. I told him to do it again, but this time not go side to side but leave the hole so I could show the cellar crew the excellent hole he put in this grade 8 bolt. He proceeded and drilled another perfect hole in the side of the bolt, again without so much as a centering punch and it was very neat. Pictures are of the bolt below: I worked for a number of years for Boeing Aircraft in Seattle, as a drill press operator. We had some great drills for doing some stuff in titanium and other hardened steels, but I was truly impressed by this drill bit. It is a Regency drill bit sold by Lawson Products . Has a special 135 degree modified split point that negates the need for a center punch, and eliminates walking on curved surfaces. Exceeds National Aerospace Standards 907 B. They have drilled over 400 holes in 1/8" inch stainless steel and the drill bit was still sharp. http://tinyurl.com/lxekfw Lawsonproducts.com website that has the 1/4" drill bit. If interested I can get a phone number of the guy that can get these for you. Just let me know. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 I'm almost afraid to ask what one costs Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reverendfranz 160 Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 What he said. I drilled a number of holes today in sheetmetal (non gun home improvement stuf) and had a few of them start to walk with a centerpunch, if i wasnt watching, as i didnt want to dent it, and only struck it lightly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bigcec1 72 Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 Ive got a 15pc set from them I think the cost was about 160$ or around there I would have to go back and look at an invoice som where around there. They are pretty nice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Darth AkSarBen 20 Posted June 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 (edited) When I talked on the phone today I think a 1/4" drill bit, in the Mechanic Length would be around 10 dollars. It's 12% shorter than the jobber lenght drills and would be great for this. There was even a shorter drill, called the Tuff-Stub drill bit and it's 38% shorter than a jobber length drill bit. You CAN buy individual drills. He is going to email me prices on (1) (6) (12) pieces. Good for a lifetime of drilling! Remember, he started and drilled a round, tough, hardened steel bolt without doing any center punch to it at all. Notice the neat clean hole? It can do a neat clean clearing to rivets in the same manner. Edited June 26, 2009 by Darth AkSarBen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Azrial 1,091 Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 I do not understand why some folks have such a hard time with the revits. I just Dremel them off in the inside and tap them out with a punch. However, I have to give Rocinante credit for showing me that! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reverendfranz 160 Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 (edited) I think the best way to remove rivets is with an endmill, Index to your receiver and take it to zero, doesnt even leave a mark. Of course, that requires a milling machine. Still, a good drill is an invaluable tool. Edited June 26, 2009 by ReverendFranz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 Cold chisel, baby! Three strikes, and it's out! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Darth AkSarBen 20 Posted July 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 I'm almost afraid to ask what one costs Brian sent me a quote on the drill bits. Regency in Mechanics and Jobber lenghts are not that bad. I have a file in .rft (Word Rich Text Format) if anyone is intersted in the prices, email me. If it's a LOT of requests, I might have to post it. Price example for the 3/16 Mechanic length Regency is $4.14, for the 1/4 Mech length Regency it is $5.75. So these prices are not out of reason, and the drills DO an excellent job, and can drill on uneven surfaces without walking. Brian Wagner Lawson Products, inc. (616) 834-2425 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hobbyshooter 59 Posted July 15, 2009 Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 Do you have any pictures of that bolt head? Most Grade 8 bolts I've dealt with are either a dull galv finish, or gold/yellow chromate. Just off the top of my eye that looks more like a grade 5. Still impressive and I could absolutely use better drill & mill bits. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted July 15, 2009 Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 Cold chisel, baby! Three strikes, and it's out! Do you have a size/type to buy to do this?? Do I wack the rivet-heads on the inside or from the outside?? Got any pic?? Getting ready to do and don't have dremel handy... And drilling seems like a mess with a handdrill. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Darth AkSarBen 20 Posted July 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 (edited) Do you have any pictures of that bolt head? Most Grade 8 bolts I've dealt with are either a dull galv finish, or gold/yellow chromate. Just off the top of my eye that looks more like a grade 5. Still impressive and I could absolutely use better drill & mill bits. Picture below. I believe that grade 5 only have 3 marks on the head of the bolt. Also included in the picture is the shell recently fired from a modification to the recoil spring, as it shows a bit less damage to the brass from the ejector contact. Here is a link: http://tinyurl.com/lsbvzs that shows the grade 8 bolt. Count the marks and add 2 3 marks +2 = grade 5 6 marks +2 = grade 8. Edited July 15, 2009 by Darth AkSarBen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hobbyshooter 59 Posted July 15, 2009 Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 Picture below. I believe that grade 5 only have 3 marks on the head of the bolt. Also included in the picture is the shell recently fired from a modification to the recoil spring, as it shows a bit less damage to the brass from the ejector contact. Yep. Thanks for the update. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Darth AkSarBen 20 Posted August 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 Now Brian comes by just the other day and shows me a couple of other goodies. One I really took notice of was a triple flue tap he had. Had the regular 3 flute design but behind that it was smaller diameter for doing deeper stuff. But, what really took my attention was the 3/8" plate of 304 stainless steel he had and had tapped it not perpendicular, as all the holes were drilled perpendicular to the piece, but...had tapped it at a 30 deg angle to the hole. He done it with a regular hand drill to boot. Makes me wonder what a tap like that would be for putting in those threads for the bullet feed guide??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted August 13, 2009 Report Share Posted August 13, 2009 Thanks for a good post here. I'm getting tired of buying new cobalt bits for about the same price at H.D. (almost). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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