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So I set out to tap my two X39's...

 

first one tapped fine and then got the screw stuck. Instead of loosening it I tightened it and stripped out the hex top. Drilled it out and in the process drilled through the hole damn thing. Decided to do the nut and bolt thing I had been looking into, quickly found out that the nut would interfere with the mags. Re-tapped the bigger hole, bought a bigger screw, it fits great! except the head of the screw interferes with damn bolt and firing pin. tried grinding it down, didn't work well, had to use a screw out set from Craftsman to get the damn thing out.... left with a bigger hole (1/4'') all the way through and no way to attach the guide besides jb weld I guess....

 

Second one I broke the tap off into it.... punched it out, went REDICULOUSLY slow, tapped it, screwed it in, works great! as long as the minor beveling on the chamber doesn't screw anything up, all I need is the handguard retainer from dinzag and I'm done for now!

 

 

the one that needs the jb welding was altered originally to not need a guide, so this is more of a I have it so let's use it and be sure.... any alternatives and how does jb weld work and hold up??

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So I set out to tap my two X39's...

 

first one tapped fine and then got the screw stuck. Instead of loosening it I tightened it and stripped out the hex top. Drilled it out and in the process drilled through the hole damn thing. Decided to do the nut and bolt thing I had been looking into, quickly found out that the nut would interfere with the mags. Re-tapped the bigger hole, bought a bigger screw, it fits great! except the head of the screw interferes with damn bolt and firing pin. tried grinding it down, didn't work well, had to use a screw out set from Craftsman to get the damn thing out.... left with a bigger hole (1/4'') all the way through and no way to attach the guide besides jb weld I guess....

 

Second one I broke the tap off into it.... punched it out, went REDICULOUSLY slow, tapped it, screwed it in, works great! as long as the minor beveling on the chamber doesn't screw anything up, all I need is the handguard retainer from dinzag and I'm done for now!

 

 

the one that needs the jb welding was altered originally to not need a guide, so this is more of a I have it so let's use it and be sure.... any alternatives and how does jb weld work and hold up??

 

JB Weld will not hold but you can have the hole and the guide welded to the trunnion through the hole in the bullet guide

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So I set out to tap my two X39's...

 

first one tapped fine and then got the screw stuck. Instead of loosening it I tightened it and stripped out the hex top. Drilled it out and in the process drilled through the hole damn thing. Decided to do the nut and bolt thing I had been looking into, quickly found out that the nut would interfere with the mags. Re-tapped the bigger hole, bought a bigger screw, it fits great! except the head of the screw interferes with damn bolt and firing pin. tried grinding it down, didn't work well, had to use a screw out set from Craftsman to get the damn thing out.... left with a bigger hole (1/4'') all the way through and no way to attach the guide besides jb weld I guess....

 

Second one I broke the tap off into it.... punched it out, went REDICULOUSLY slow, tapped it, screwed it in, works great! as long as the minor beveling on the chamber doesn't screw anything up, all I need is the handguard retainer from dinzag and I'm done for now!

 

 

the one that needs the jb welding was altered originally to not need a guide, so this is more of a I have it so let's use it and be sure.... any alternatives and how does jb weld work and hold up??

 

JB Weld will not hold but you can have the hole and the guide welded to the trunnion through the hole in the bullet guide

 

2 things -

 

1) was told it was risky welding that close to the chamber as the heat can screw it up

 

2) explain to me how you obtained the knowledge on JB Weld's ineffectiveness. People on here who have used it always report no problems. people who have either done something else, like to push the negative image of the stuff, or have NEVER used it keep telling me how it's shit and won't work. all it needs to do is hold on a small piece of metal that while it's in a volatile area it's not exactly being used on an engine block, which I've heard works too.

 

 

Only people who have first hand knowledge of jb weld not holding on the guide should be so against it.

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1) was told it was risky welding that close to the chamber as the heat can screw it up

 

2) explain to me how you obtained the knowledge on JB Weld's ineffectiveness. People on here who have used it always report no problems. people who have either done something else, like to push the negative image of the stuff, or have NEVER used it keep telling me how it's shit and won't work. all it needs to do is hold on a small piece of metal that while it's in a volatile area it's not exactly being used on an engine block, which I've heard works too.

 

 

Only people who have first hand knowledge of jb weld not holding on the guide should be so against it.

 

We weld on guns every day.

 

JB Weld is an epoxy with filler in it. It is totally unsuitable for use in any critical application, in my opinion. I'm a mechanical engineer and have built a few guns.

 

Personally I don't really care what you do with your gun, but don't be surprised when guys here tell you not to do it. There are quite a few experienced gunsmiths here.

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I can get it welded, was just told to be careful around the chamber and barrel

 

Not getting pissy about the JB Weld thing, but I keep asking if anyone who's tried it has had it fail and nothing. tons will explain what it is which I don't need, and tons will just tell me it's shit.... the few who've used it tell me they've put a few thousand rounds through and it's fine.....keep waiting for the horror stories of shit that's actually happened and they never come

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How about using a countersunk screw in the larger size ? Or maybe really off the wall but would a rivet work? I know it can be tig welded without hurting anything.

 

will probably try welding it. couldn't find a screw that would work at lowes or home depot and was told a rivet would stick out the bottom to far and interfere with the mag

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First off, I dont mean to be a jerk or anything but you posted on here looking for help right? Usually when I ask for help and I have some half a$$ed plan that involves JB weld, Im not going to say anything to somebody who tells me its not going to work. I mean seriously, how hard is it to drill a hole and tap it? Who have you heard from that JB weld works good for anything other than arts and crafts? Im gonna bet it wasnt from anybody that has any high quality mechanical experience or done any kind of machinist work. If you dont wanna weld it, why dont you do the normal thing for a stripped hole that is enlarged....put an helicoil in it. Its not near as strong as tapping a hole but is a helluva lot better than just throwing some JB weld on it and hoping for the best. But its your gun.....you do with it what you want.

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First off, I dont mean to be a jerk or anything but you posted on here looking for help right? Usually when I ask for help and I have some half a$$ed plan that involves JB weld, Im not going to say anything to somebody who tells me its not going to work. I mean seriously, how hard is it to drill a hole and tap it? Who have you heard from that JB weld works good for anything other than arts and crafts? Im gonna bet it wasnt from anybody that has any high quality mechanical experience or done any kind of machinist work. If you dont wanna weld it, why dont you do the normal thing for a stripped hole that is enlarged....put an helicoil in it. Its not near as strong as tapping a hole but is a helluva lot better than just throwing some JB weld on it and hoping for the best. But its your gun.....you do with it what you want.

 

I've heard of people doing it, ON THIS FORUM! I'm not getting pissy because people tell me it won't work, I'm getting fuckin pissed that the people who have done it AREN'T the ones telling me it won't work.

 

Tapping is fuckin easy, I work in maitenance and can tap holes. The hole is too big and I can't find a screw to fit that has a small enough head.... the hole is tapped. All I need is a little piece of metal that really doesn't go through that fuckin much stress (especially since that gun chambers rounds without it even being there) It's says it works on engines for shit's sake. Then there's other epoxys, including ones that are for steel.

 

guess why I'm pissy is that while this forum is a good source of help and knowledge, you have to wade through the hardcore/professionals who straight up reject anything that isn't their plan, or people wanting you to use the WORST SEARCH FUNCTION EVER!

 

the thing I'm thinking is it's an extra gun, not a SHTF type, and if the damn epoxy doesn't hold, I can always just weld it for real. I did a proper tapping and bullet guide installation on my SHTF AK that's for defense and killing, this is trying something different.

 

/rant

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Ok, here's a success story about JB Weld.......

 

 

I bought an AK with a welded on slant brake (the price was good).

First trip to the range, the brake blew off somewhere down range.

 

It was within the first three mags, I didn't see it happen.

I sure wondered at first why the POI changed though. :rolleyes:

 

I tried one of those set screw type thread adapters but the set screws

kept loosening. I knew that would happen too, stupid idea there.

 

Not wanting to ruin my good deal and have a gunsmith fix the barrel,

I decided to try the JB Weld. I ground off the broken weld, cleaned

up and de-greased the metal with acetone (wife's nail polish remover),

and JB'ed a new slant brake on the barrel.

 

It's been holding just fine with several trips to the range, hundreds of rounds.

Damn thing is on there rock solid now. It's holding far better than the tack

weld that broke very quickly at the range. Doesn't look sloppy or anything,

either, you can't tell it's JB'ed.

 

I'm not saying that JB is the "right way" to fix firearms, but it worked just

fine for this particular repair and the price was right.

 

Having said that....... I think I go along with other suggestions for your case.

Try a countersunk screw with permanent Locktite. You could smooth off the

head of the screw once it's in there too. That would be a very solid fix.

 

You could try the JB, it just may crack and let go after a while. That may be

something that happens in my case too. Hasn't yet though.

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lol do whatever you want to your gun, no need to get mad.

 

If you were looking to purchase a gun and found that the bullet ramp was made of JB Weld would you still buy it?

 

yeah, don't mean to be a prick so sorry, long damn day.... my bad.

 

maybe, depending on the price. thing is I'm comfortable enough screwing around with the AK format now (in large part to shit I learned on here) that if the jb weld doesn't hold I'm confidant I could do what was necessary to fix it.

 

I bought a another screw, again, head was way too big. after dremeling forever I gave up and finally did use some jb weld on it. if it works I'll be happy. if it let's loose then I'll grind it off and have my boss weld the shit out of it. if the bullet guide was really necessary on this rifle I'd be more concerned, but the gunsmith I bought it from put enough of a bevel on the chamber I got away with firing it with a guide.

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yeah, don't mean to be a prick so sorry, long damn day.... my bad.

 

No problem bro. JB Weld is a great epoxy and there are lots of "success" stories, but it's really a band aid solution.

 

It's a matter of context; would you use it to fix an engine block? How about if your wife or daughter had to drive the car? Or the engine is in an airplane?

 

In my opinion it has no place on a firearm.

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So I set out to tap my two X39's...

 

first one tapped fine and then got the screw stuck. Instead of loosening it I tightened it and stripped out the hex top. Drilled it out and in the process drilled through the hole damn thing. Decided to do the nut and bolt thing I had been looking into, quickly found out that the nut would interfere with the mags. Re-tapped the bigger hole, bought a bigger screw, it fits great! except the head of the screw interferes with damn bolt and firing pin. tried grinding it down, didn't work well, had to use a screw out set from Craftsman to get the damn thing out.... left with a bigger hole (1/4'') all the way through and no way to attach the guide besides jb weld I guess....

 

Second one I broke the tap off into it.... punched it out, went REDICULOUSLY slow, tapped it, screwed it in, works great! as long as the minor beveling on the chamber doesn't screw anything up, all I need is the handguard retainer from dinzag and I'm done for now!

 

 

the one that needs the jb welding was altered originally to not need a guide, so this is more of a I have it so let's use it and be sure.... any alternatives and how does jb weld work and hold up??

 

JB Weld will not hold but you can have the hole and the guide welded to the trunnion through the hole in the bullet guide

 

2 things -

 

1) was told it was risky welding that close to the chamber as the heat can screw it up

 

2) explain to me how you obtained the knowledge on JB Weld's ineffectiveness. People on here who have used it always report no problems. people who have either done something else, like to push the negative image of the stuff, or have NEVER used it keep telling me how it's shit and won't work. all it needs to do is hold on a small piece of metal that while it's in a volatile area it's not exactly being used on an engine block, which I've heard works too.

 

 

Only people who have first hand knowledge of jb weld not holding on the guide should be so against it.

 

 

The heat causes the metal to "shrink away" from the JB weld during heating and cooling cycles.Most of the time this would be OK but a bullet guide is being skipped over by cartridges over and over and over again.I have used JB weld to fill in ugly dings and as a thread locking compound par excellence for many years and I have even fixed some car parts and rifle magazines with it but it is not something I could use anywhere near the barrel,bolt,bullet guide,etc.

 

I have had two bullet guides welded in and they have shown no signs of moving and no damage to the trunnion or breech face.It is the way to go and in fact I have even done some AK builds with welded trunions(to the chagrin of many rivet purists) and those have been among the better AKs I have ever built.

 

Cover the breech and locking lugs and have a good welder take some Chromoly rod and dab it in there slowly letting it cool naturally.You don't really need all the heat of filling the hole because that is not the contact area anyway.

 

This will solve your problem bedrock solid for about $15-$35 depending on what part of the country you are in and you will never have to ask yourself "is that sucker gonna hold?" because you will know it's done right despite a rocky start.

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I'll be interested in seeing how it holds up. like I said, my gun can function without the guide at all so if the jb crap doesn't hold I can take it out and keep using the gun until I can get it welded. could have it welded for free at my boss's, I'm considering this more of an experiment than anything.

 

My lighter, Shit hits the fan AK is properly bolted, just need to pull the bolt back out and put some threadlocker on it. no way would I use JB on it as it's got survival implications. the other one will likely get moderate use target shooting in the mountains so it's not vital it shoots every time during this experiment

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Phoenix,

 

I don't think you are out of line in questioning advice from people who have not tried the method. Lots of people will say "that sucks, never use that" with no reasoning. If someone says "that sucks, because the temperature at which jb weld will break down is xxx <cite> and your AK is going to heat up to xxx <cite>" then that would be more reasonable as far as someone who has never tried using it to tell you not to.

 

I considered jb weld with mine after my tap broke but ended up just grinding the tap out and retapping it with success. The other guy made a good point that it's all a matter of context. If the jb weld comes loose, what happens? Your bolt wont close/mag wont feed.. probably not going to be a huge safety hazard. As long as you aren't depending your life on this gun I don't think it is an unreasonable thing to try.

 

In general, people should give more exact reasons than "that wont work" so everyone can learn why and better pass that knowledge on to others in the future.

 

Of course, nobody is paying people to respond to the questions, so any help is welcome! :)

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Phoenix,

 

I don't think you are out of line in questioning advice from people who have not tried the method. Lots of people will say "that sucks, never use that" with no reasoning. If someone says "that sucks, because the temperature at which jb weld will break down is xxx <cite> and your AK is going to heat up to xxx <cite>" then that would be more reasonable as far as someone who has never tried using it to tell you not to.

 

I considered jb weld with mine after my tap broke but ended up just grinding the tap out and retapping it with success. The other guy made a good point that it's all a matter of context. If the jb weld comes loose, what happens? Your bolt wont close/mag wont feed.. probably not going to be a huge safety hazard. As long as you aren't depending your life on this gun I don't think it is an unreasonable thing to try.

 

In general, people should give more exact reasons than "that wont work" so everyone can learn why and better pass that knowledge on to others in the future.

 

Of course, nobody is paying people to respond to the questions, so any help is welcome! :)

 

well said. if it screws up I'll have a jam and have to clear it and weld it. JB is supposed to hold up to 600, so I'm seriously doubting that part of the trunnion will get up to it.

 

You'll never know if you don't try!

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Phoenix,

 

I don't think you are out of line in questioning advice from people who have not tried the method. Lots of people will say "that sucks, never use that" with no reasoning. If someone says "that sucks, because the temperature at which jb weld will break down is xxx <cite> and your AK is going to heat up to xxx <cite>" then that would be more reasonable as far as someone who has never tried using it to tell you not to.

 

I considered jb weld with mine after my tap broke but ended up just grinding the tap out and retapping it with success. The other guy made a good point that it's all a matter of context. If the jb weld comes loose, what happens? Your bolt wont close/mag wont feed.. probably not going to be a huge safety hazard. As long as you aren't depending your life on this gun I don't think it is an unreasonable thing to try.

 

In general, people should give more exact reasons than "that wont work" so everyone can learn why and better pass that knowledge on to others in the future.

 

Of course, nobody is paying people to respond to the questions, so any help is welcome! :)

 

well said. if it screws up I'll have a jam and have to clear it and weld it. JB is supposed to hold up to 600, so I'm seriously doubting that part of the trunnion will get up to it.

 

You'll never know if you don't try!

 

JB weld only holds to 400,it burns at 600.The dimensions of your trunnion are changed by thermal loads at 250-300 which a single bumpfiring session will easily create.It will work a few times then it will give.The lip of the bullet guide under the trunnion might even stay in place but the screw or even a big chunk of JB weld might end up in your chamber too so when something goes terribly wrong remember who tried to help you out,aight?

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Phoenix,

 

I don't think you are out of line in questioning advice from people who have not tried the method. Lots of people will say "that sucks, never use that" with no reasoning. If someone says "that sucks, because the temperature at which jb weld will break down is xxx <cite> and your AK is going to heat up to xxx <cite>" then that would be more reasonable as far as someone who has never tried using it to tell you not to.

 

I considered jb weld with mine after my tap broke but ended up just grinding the tap out and retapping it with success. The other guy made a good point that it's all a matter of context. If the jb weld comes loose, what happens? Your bolt wont close/mag wont feed.. probably not going to be a huge safety hazard. As long as you aren't depending your life on this gun I don't think it is an unreasonable thing to try.

 

In general, people should give more exact reasons than "that wont work" so everyone can learn why and better pass that knowledge on to others in the future.

 

Of course, nobody is paying people to respond to the questions, so any help is welcome! :)

 

well said. if it screws up I'll have a jam and have to clear it and weld it. JB is supposed to hold up to 600, so I'm seriously doubting that part of the trunnion will get up to it.

 

You'll never know if you don't try!

 

JB weld only holds to 400,it burns at 600.The dimensions of your trunnion are changed by thermal loads at 250-300 which a single bumpfiring session will easily create.It will work a few times then it will give.The lip of the bullet guide under the trunnion might even stay in place but the screw or even a big chunk of JB weld might end up in your chamber too so when something goes terribly wrong remember who tried to help you out,aight?

so jb is good up to 400, the trunnion will approach 300..... I'm not a math major but seems like that'll work.

 

there is no chunk to get into the chamber and the physics of such jump out of that little hole and up in while the bolt is flying back and forth is pretty remarkable. There's hardly any in the hole, just some under the guide and a little on top smoothed out.... may even dremel the top off but there's no way jb that's stuck between the trunnion and the guide can get into the chamber

 

appreciate the concern and help, guess we'll see. I think there's a chance the stuff doesn't hold and the guide comes loose, I just don't think there's a chance for a real catashrophe. thing is at this point to do it right and weld it, the jb would HAVE to come loose as I can't get the guide off right now, lol

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Phoenix,

 

I don't think you are out of line in questioning advice from people who have not tried the method. Lots of people will say "that sucks, never use that" with no reasoning. If someone says "that sucks, because the temperature at which jb weld will break down is xxx <cite> and your AK is going to heat up to xxx <cite>" then that would be more reasonable as far as someone who has never tried using it to tell you not to.

 

I considered jb weld with mine after my tap broke but ended up just grinding the tap out and retapping it with success. The other guy made a good point that it's all a matter of context. If the jb weld comes loose, what happens? Your bolt wont close/mag wont feed.. probably not going to be a huge safety hazard. As long as you aren't depending your life on this gun I don't think it is an unreasonable thing to try.

 

In general, people should give more exact reasons than "that wont work" so everyone can learn why and better pass that knowledge on to others in the future.

 

Of course, nobody is paying people to respond to the questions, so any help is welcome! :)

 

well said. if it screws up I'll have a jam and have to clear it and weld it. JB is supposed to hold up to 600, so I'm seriously doubting that part of the trunnion will get up to it.

 

You'll never know if you don't try!

 

JB weld only holds to 400,it burns at 600.The dimensions of your trunnion are changed by thermal loads at 250-300 which a single bumpfiring session will easily create.It will work a few times then it will give.The lip of the bullet guide under the trunnion might even stay in place but the screw or even a big chunk of JB weld might end up in your chamber too so when something goes terribly wrong remember who tried to help you out,aight?

so jb is good up to 400, the trunnion will approach 300..... I'm not a math major but seems like that'll work.

 

there is no chunk to get into the chamber and the physics of such jump out of that little hole and up in while the bolt is flying back and forth is pretty remarkable. There's hardly any in the hole, just some under the guide and a little on top smoothed out.... may even dremel the top off but there's no way jb that's stuck between the trunnion and the guide can get into the chamber

 

appreciate the concern and help, guess we'll see. I think there's a chance the stuff doesn't hold and the guide comes loose, I just don't think there's a chance for a real catashrophe. thing is at this point to do it right and weld it, the jb would HAVE to come loose as I can't get the guide off right now, lol

 

 

The metal starts swelling and shrinking with as little as a 100 degree increase.I toss barrels in the freezer to shrink them for pressing into a trunnion when the trunnion is a little to tight a fit.When the JB Weld heats up and load is applied to it the bond with break.The misshapen nature of the JB weld blob and the hole might hold by the resistance of a few tiny spots of contact but you will have a piece that is not really up to snuff and could fail at any time.

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Err guys we dump mud into these things for the hell of it....

 

Its not an AR and not once have I ever heard of any problems with these and there's a crap load of them held in with JB. OP you are on your own, next time do a search this topic gets odd for some reason.

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Phoenix,

 

I don't think you are out of line in questioning advice from people who have not tried the method. Lots of people will say "that sucks, never use that" with no reasoning. If someone says "that sucks, because the temperature at which jb weld will break down is xxx <cite> and your AK is going to heat up to xxx <cite>" then that would be more reasonable as far as someone who has never tried using it to tell you not to.

 

I considered jb weld with mine after my tap broke but ended up just grinding the tap out and retapping it with success. The other guy made a good point that it's all a matter of context. If the jb weld comes loose, what happens? Your bolt wont close/mag wont feed.. probably not going to be a huge safety hazard. As long as you aren't depending your life on this gun I don't think it is an unreasonable thing to try.

 

In general, people should give more exact reasons than "that wont work" so everyone can learn why and better pass that knowledge on to others in the future.

 

Of course, nobody is paying people to respond to the questions, so any help is welcome! :)

 

well said. if it screws up I'll have a jam and have to clear it and weld it. JB is supposed to hold up to 600, so I'm seriously doubting that part of the trunnion will get up to it.

 

You'll never know if you don't try!

 

JB weld only holds to 400,it burns at 600.The dimensions of your trunnion are changed by thermal loads at 250-300 which a single bumpfiring session will easily create.It will work a few times then it will give.The lip of the bullet guide under the trunnion might even stay in place but the screw or even a big chunk of JB weld might end up in your chamber too so when something goes terribly wrong remember who tried to help you out,aight?

so jb is good up to 400, the trunnion will approach 300..... I'm not a math major but seems like that'll work.

 

there is no chunk to get into the chamber and the physics of such jump out of that little hole and up in while the bolt is flying back and forth is pretty remarkable. There's hardly any in the hole, just some under the guide and a little on top smoothed out.... may even dremel the top off but there's no way jb that's stuck between the trunnion and the guide can get into the chamber

 

appreciate the concern and help, guess we'll see. I think there's a chance the stuff doesn't hold and the guide comes loose, I just don't think there's a chance for a real catashrophe. thing is at this point to do it right and weld it, the jb would HAVE to come loose as I can't get the guide off right now, lol

 

 

The metal starts swelling and shrinking with as little as a 100 degree increase.I toss barrels in the freezer to shrink them for pressing into a trunnion when the trunnion is a little to tight a fit.When the JB Weld heats up and load is applied to it the bond with break.The misshapen nature of the JB weld blob and the hole might hold by the resistance of a few tiny spots of contact but you will have a piece that is not really up to snuff and could fail at any time.

 

true. I drilled out the hole, I'm pretty much relying on the jb that's between the guide and the trunnion.... may only last a couple of rounds, may last years.... we're gonna find out!

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Phoenix,

 

I don't think you are out of line in questioning advice from people who have not tried the method. Lots of people will say "that sucks, never use that" with no reasoning. If someone says "that sucks, because the temperature at which jb weld will break down is xxx <cite> and your AK is going to heat up to xxx <cite>" then that would be more reasonable as far as someone who has never tried using it to tell you not to.

 

I considered jb weld with mine after my tap broke but ended up just grinding the tap out and retapping it with success. The other guy made a good point that it's all a matter of context. If the jb weld comes loose, what happens? Your bolt wont close/mag wont feed.. probably not going to be a huge safety hazard. As long as you aren't depending your life on this gun I don't think it is an unreasonable thing to try.

 

In general, people should give more exact reasons than "that wont work" so everyone can learn why and better pass that knowledge on to others in the future.

 

Of course, nobody is paying people to respond to the questions, so any help is welcome! :)

 

well said. if it screws up I'll have a jam and have to clear it and weld it. JB is supposed to hold up to 600, so I'm seriously doubting that part of the trunnion will get up to it.

 

You'll never know if you don't try!

 

JB weld only holds to 400,it burns at 600.The dimensions of your trunnion are changed by thermal loads at 250-300 which a single bumpfiring session will easily create.It will work a few times then it will give.The lip of the bullet guide under the trunnion might even stay in place but the screw or even a big chunk of JB weld might end up in your chamber too so when something goes terribly wrong remember who tried to help you out,aight?

so jb is good up to 400, the trunnion will approach 300..... I'm not a math major but seems like that'll work.

 

there is no chunk to get into the chamber and the physics of such jump out of that little hole and up in while the bolt is flying back and forth is pretty remarkable. There's hardly any in the hole, just some under the guide and a little on top smoothed out.... may even dremel the top off but there's no way jb that's stuck between the trunnion and the guide can get into the chamber

 

appreciate the concern and help, guess we'll see. I think there's a chance the stuff doesn't hold and the guide comes loose, I just don't think there's a chance for a real catashrophe. thing is at this point to do it right and weld it, the jb would HAVE to come loose as I can't get the guide off right now, lol

 

 

The metal starts swelling and shrinking with as little as a 100 degree increase.I toss barrels in the freezer to shrink them for pressing into a trunnion when the trunnion is a little to tight a fit.When the JB Weld heats up and load is applied to it the bond with break.The misshapen nature of the JB weld blob and the hole might hold by the resistance of a few tiny spots of contact but you will have a piece that is not really up to snuff and could fail at any time.

 

true. I drilled out the hole, I'm pretty much relying on the jb that's between the guide and the trunnion.... may only last a couple of rounds, may last years.... we're gonna find out!

 

Still think you are better off getting it Mig or Tig welded. Then there is no doubt it will hold...... It's your rifle so do as you will. Just my opinion...

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Phoenix,

 

I don't think you are out of line in questioning advice from people who have not tried the method. Lots of people will say "that sucks, never use that" with no reasoning. If someone says "that sucks, because the temperature at which jb weld will break down is xxx <cite> and your AK is going to heat up to xxx <cite>" then that would be more reasonable as far as someone who has never tried using it to tell you not to.

 

I considered jb weld with mine after my tap broke but ended up just grinding the tap out and retapping it with success. The other guy made a good point that it's all a matter of context. If the jb weld comes loose, what happens? Your bolt wont close/mag wont feed.. probably not going to be a huge safety hazard. As long as you aren't depending your life on this gun I don't think it is an unreasonable thing to try.

 

In general, people should give more exact reasons than "that wont work" so everyone can learn why and better pass that knowledge on to others in the future.

 

Of course, nobody is paying people to respond to the questions, so any help is welcome! :)

 

well said. if it screws up I'll have a jam and have to clear it and weld it. JB is supposed to hold up to 600, so I'm seriously doubting that part of the trunnion will get up to it.

 

You'll never know if you don't try!

 

JB weld only holds to 400,it burns at 600.The dimensions of your trunnion are changed by thermal loads at 250-300 which a single bumpfiring session will easily create.It will work a few times then it will give.The lip of the bullet guide under the trunnion might even stay in place but the screw or even a big chunk of JB weld might end up in your chamber too so when something goes terribly wrong remember who tried to help you out,aight?

so jb is good up to 400, the trunnion will approach 300..... I'm not a math major but seems like that'll work.

 

there is no chunk to get into the chamber and the physics of such jump out of that little hole and up in while the bolt is flying back and forth is pretty remarkable. There's hardly any in the hole, just some under the guide and a little on top smoothed out.... may even dremel the top off but there's no way jb that's stuck between the trunnion and the guide can get into the chamber

 

appreciate the concern and help, guess we'll see. I think there's a chance the stuff doesn't hold and the guide comes loose, I just don't think there's a chance for a real catashrophe. thing is at this point to do it right and weld it, the jb would HAVE to come loose as I can't get the guide off right now, lol

 

 

The metal starts swelling and shrinking with as little as a 100 degree increase.I toss barrels in the freezer to shrink them for pressing into a trunnion when the trunnion is a little to tight a fit.When the JB Weld heats up and load is applied to it the bond with break.The misshapen nature of the JB weld blob and the hole might hold by the resistance of a few tiny spots of contact but you will have a piece that is not really up to snuff and could fail at any time.

 

true. I drilled out the hole, I'm pretty much relying on the jb that's between the guide and the trunnion.... may only last a couple of rounds, may last years.... we're gonna find out!

 

Still think you are better off getting it Mig or Tig welded. Then there is no doubt it will hold...... It's your rifle so do as you will. Just my opinion...

 

you're probably right, to do so though I need the JB TO fail so I can weld the guide....

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